TC24D on a slope

[Trouser Bark]

I've recently bought a TC24D and now have a wopping 3 hours on it. Part of that time has been working on some slopes and I've noticed that on some of the slopes it isn't uncommon for one of the rear tires to come up off the ground and that seems to be a boundry that I don't want to push too often if that's an indication that I'm about to put her on 'er side. What I'm looking for is a guideline. In other words, a voice of experience to tell me if I'm taking this tractor down too steep of a section.

The TC24D has R4's on it and appears to carry it's weight fairly high for such a narrow footprint. Being a rookie though I'm not sure what to expect ...other than some pain if she flops over. Here's a series of three pics of what I've been running down. I've been carrying bucketloads of wood to burn and carrying the bucket low on the way up and the way down. The first pic leaves quite a bit to the imagination but the other two will give you a better idea.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Trouser Bark]

The path down...

 

[Trouser Bark]

And looking back out...

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Couple things, do you have your wheels set as far out as possible and do you have your wheels filled. Doing this will lower your COG and make you much more stable on slopes. And if all you do is work on slopes you can go thru and strap heavy weights down on your tractors belly to also help in lowering your COG. Post a picture of your tractor if you can as it is nice to see everyones toys.

 

[jinman]

After looking at your pictures, I'm convinced that your problem is very much like a situation I found myself in this last weekend when I was moving sand out of my creek bottom. I built a ramp up and out of the creek, and I discovered my tractor was very unstable when I tried to back up the slope. I turned around and drove forward up the slope and there was no problem because the load was higher than the rear wheels and the center of gravity shifts backwards.

If I were doing your job, I would drive under your porch and get a load. Then as I backed out, I'd turn and back down the hill so the bucket was pointing uphill. Next, I'd drive up going forward instead of backing up the hill. Also, you may have to accept less than a full load and make more trips. Are you going to be adding fill below your deck so it is level? If so, I would back down that hill, turn left, and drive under the deck to dump the load. If your tires aren't loaded, Robert's suggestion of loading those tires is very good.

I'm attaching a picture of the ramp I built to get out of my creek (deep ditch, actually). I could not back up this ramp with a full bucket. My TC45D would lift the left-rear tire and start crabbing back down into the creek. I think I know exactly how you feel, except you have lots further to fall and roll than I do. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Be careful! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I'm a little confused. Are you going up and down the slope when the rear tire lifts or are you crossing the slope? If you are crossing the slope or working on a compound slope and a tire lifts then the tractor can go on its side pretty easily. In those circumstances you need to weight down all four wheels.

If you are going up and down and your bucket is full, as Jim suggests in his post about making the sand ramp, then you need do follow his advice. You should still have weight on the rear wheels.

So, IMHO you need rear wheel weights at a minimum. Filled rears and weights is better.

If you are having problems on compound slopes then you need to be VERY careful but you also need to do what you can to bring the center of gravity down and widen your stance. The new TC24D tractors have DISH IN or DISH OUT rear tire track adjustments rather than multi-part adjustable wheels so make sure your rear wheels are set to their widest stance. Then put weights on the wheels and fill the tires. And you should look at front wheel weights as well (I know of none available so I used EZ Weights to to make front wheel weights for my TC24D).

The goal is to keep the greasy side of the tractor facing the ground. Adding weight BELOW your center of gravity will lower the center of gravity but it gets tricky on slopes. Keep the bucket low. Get a tilt meter. Trust the pucker factor in your shorts, but realize that the longer you pucker down there the more normal it feels and that is when you get into trouble.

 

[hazmat]

Legion,

Please don't take offense to this -

It sounds like you are a rookie tractor driver - we all were at some point. Most of us (me included) probably had some level ground where we could get used to the machine with relatively low risk. From your pictures it looks like your property doesn't have much "safe" ground. I do commend you for seeking advice here on how to be safe.

From your profile, you say that you are waiting for the snowblower. I gather that you are operating the FEL with nothing on the three point as counterweight. We also know that your tires are not loaded. <font color="blue">Using the FEL w/o any counterbalance is extremely unsafe</font>. Without counterweight, you can lift a tire on level ground, never mind on your slope. Your dealer should have explained this to you. Your FEL manual clearly states how much weight is needed for safe operation of the loader. When I was buying my tractor, loading the tires was included in the price at all my local dealers. A couple wouldn't sell the machine without the loaded tires.

Here's a few suggestions to help you operate safely.

1. Get your dealer to load your tires & dish them out (I described this in your other thread).

2. Get your dealer to spend a couple hours with you at your property demonstrating proper use of the machine on a slope. Maybe you could offer to buy him lunch or something. Explain that you feel unsafe operating the machine. I think he'd be more than happy to ensure that you don't injure yourself.

3. Add a heavy (>600#) implement or weight box on the three point as a counter weight.

4. Get a tiltmeter Tiltmeter.com I'd suggest the dual axis (pitch & roll) model.

Be safe, we don't want to read about your rollover in the safetly forum.

I apologize if I came across a little harsh - but I don't feel this issue deserves sugar coating.

 

[kensfarm]

Hazmat I thought you sounded straight to the point.. I agree.. 1 & 3 are crucial.. especially on slopes. Take your time.. go slow.. 4wd lock.. keep the bucket as low as possible even if you can't carry a full load.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

hazmat. . . ditto, and you said it well.

 

[JerryG]

Legion,
I know that this has not been suggested, but. I would try to get my dealer to swap your R-4 for R-1 Ag's. The Ag's will get better traction on you steep slopes and the rims are adjustable. The further the wheels are out, the more stable the tractor. Then put on a few hundred pounds of wheel weights. I have run tractors both ways and you wouldn't believe the difference. There is a reason that the tire companies are now recommending to put on cast iron and the big farmers are putting it on instead on liquid ballast. The tire doesn't get as good of traction with liquid ballast, because the side walls and the tread can't flex.