TC 33DA, trying, no luck

[golferdrone]

I have a TC33. I have tried to read the post before posting but I am not having any luck to get it to start.

Key first click-glow plug, it sounds like a relay clicks and that is all i get. I hired someone that fixes lawnmowers they looked at it, we moved levers around to no luck. Wiggled the battery cables and started, then would not start, wiggled cables again, finally started. Moved it outside of my barn, and then was going to use their recommendation, cut the old positive end off the cable at the battery, replace, and tractor should work great. Installed new brass clamp on battery cable attached to the battery. Turned key and glow plug, dash lights, headlights all will work, turn key to start position and nothing.


*New Battery
*Loosened negative battery cable and reattached to make sure no loose fittings.
*someone that I hired that fixes mowers discovered my positive battery cable was loose and thought the battery end connection was bad, replaced just the end. Did not help
*interchanged all relays that are same kind, did not help
*checked all fuses on right engine firewall, checked fuse at starter.
*swapped all relays to no luck under right side dash
*PTO light is not on
*Have tried upper and lower neutral lever


I have very limited tractor knowledge.

I use to need to wiggle the gear selector to find "neutral".

My pto light is not on, and my 2 sets of little plugs underneath driver side are connected

I have no idea how to check the neutral safety switch or where it is located on tractor.

I see people talking about jumping the starter, I only see 1 cable attached to the starter. The big red cable going to the battery. Other cables attached to the battery cable look to be attached to alternator

 

[RG1]

I'd start by making absolutely sure the cable ends and terminals on the battery are really clean by using a terminal cleaner or sand paper etc on the inside of the cable ends, and on the posts themselves. I have had that cause me the issue you are experiencing. Even though they all looked clean, a really good scrubbing did the trick. Next I would check the negative cable where it grounds out on the frame and make sure it is getting good contact. Same where for the starter end of the positive cable. Just because your PTO light isn't on doesn't mean that the switch can't be hung in between on and off. Wiggle the PTO switch on and off a few times with a little pressure behind it going to off. Just some quick things to check.

 

[golferdrone]

I'd start by making absolutely sure the cable ends and terminals on the battery are really clean by using a terminal cleaner or sand paper etc on the inside of the cable ends, and on the posts themselves. I have had that cause me the issue you are experiencing. Even though they all looked clean, a really good scrubbing did the trick. Next I would check the negative cable where it grounds out on the frame and make sure it is getting good contact. Same where for the starter end of the positive cable. Just because your PTO light isn't on doesn't mean that the switch can't be hung in between on and off. Wiggle the PTO switch on and off a few times with a little pressure behind it going to off. Just some quick things to check.

Removed starter nut that holds positive cable on. Polished nut and cable end with sandpaper. Other end is new battery and new clamp.

Finally figured out solenoid cable is under plastic cover. Removed cable, placed test light in the end of cable that would attach to solenoid, turned key and no light came on.

Placed a jumper wire from solenoid to main battery line and instantly cranks. Started instantly with key in run.

Have tried wiggling PTO switch, tried both upper and lower neutral.

Other recommendations to try? If using a toggle switch how many amps does it need to cover?

 

[RG1]

If you can get it to fire instantly in the run position by jumping past the start position, it sounds like you may have a bad ignition switch.