I had a Tc33d which the starter would click and click 3 or 10 times. I thought it was the solenoid. Finally bit the bullet and put a new starter on it, but I still had the problem. Finally I took it to a dealership. From what I was told at the dealership, there was a service bulletin put out on this problem. It had to do with installing a diode at the starter to stop electricity from back feeding. I never questioned the dealership about it, but I never had a problem again either. Hopefully this will get you going down the right path.
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TC-25D Won't Crank - I Need Some Help Please
- Thread starter TC25Dave
- Start date
- Views: 9276
County Duke
New member
- Joined
- May 8, 2021
- Messages
- 5
- Tractor
- New Holland TC30
I have a NH Tc30 and had starting problems a few years ago. They use a lot of current and the issue with mine was the computer when I replaced the battery. Replaced both battery cables and it worked for an hour, but eventually had to replace the computer. Only issue I have had in 10 years.
devodad
Silver Member
I don’t have a lot of experience with tractor maintenance, but I was experiencing similar problems with a JD tractor. I had the starter rebuilt - not the answer. I replaced the solenoid - not the answer. I replaced the batteries (x2)- still not the answer. I replaced the stater switch (least expensive of all my attempts) - problem solved! Again I’m not saying that’s your problem, but I learned the hard way that thoseTC-25D Won't Crank - I Need Some Help Please
New Holland Yr 2000 Model TC25D with HST. Have had a couple of intermittent failures to crank (before I last replaced battery) which seemingly healed themselves. Solenoid now silent with no start when key fully turned to the right.
Is it likely that these OEM safety switches would operate dash warning lights without adequate current to properly function?
- Slow charged 18 mo. old battery (indicated fully charged)– terminals freshly cleaned and tight – actually load tests at slightly over 10 volts. Removed battery ground wire to frame and sand papered just to ensure solid ground.
- Headlights and instrument panel lights all operative with ignition switch on.
- Key turn seems to properly engage glow plug and result in normal pre-heat functionality.
- Hazard lights work with key removed.
- Main 30a and all fuses in fuse box visibly good.
- Test light illuminates/confirms power from battery to single solenoid main lug – all solenoid/starter connections clean and tight.
- Parking brake light illuminates when brakes set/handle activated.
- PTO and Mid-PTO levers activate PTO ON Indicator when engaged, turn off warning light when set in “OFF” position. Moved through ranges several times before return to “OFF” positions.
- HST range lever moved throughout ranges and reset to either (tried both) of the two (2) NEUTRAL positions.
- No seat safety switch installed on this model.
- Checked good connection on dual wire push in plug PTO safety switch (PTO ON warning light off if both wires connected or if switch is bypassed with solid copper jumper; warning light on if one or both wires disconnected).
- Both PTOs, HST range and parking brake safety switches appear visually clean and seem to operate panel indicator lights as operationally expected.
- HST pedal moved throughout forward and reverse ranges and returned to (Middle) presumed “NEUTRAL” with HST Range lever set to “NEUTRAL” position; All PTO levers in “OFF” position; Parking brake engaged; Clutch pedal fully depressed; ignition key turned fully to right – result is no solenoid noise/no starter turnover.
- No visible rodent chews or damage on any wiring.
- Tapped solenoid body with hammer while attempting to crank, silent – no response.
- Front loader bucket attached with lower blade edge angled down on the ground
Does anyone know appropriate DMM readings/ranges for each of the safety switches?
Is there a sequential series in which safety switches should be tested using DMM?
If I bypass solenoid and start tractor, will key still shut this diesel engine down?
Is there a testing procedure for this kind of problem in a Shop Repair manual?
Any suggestions on where to get a wiring diagram and/or repair manual for this model? (concerned about downloading some kind of computer virus or getting scammed from websites/sellers I don’t know anything about).
I greatly appreciate any help or advice – I’m obviously not a good mechanic – thanks for your time and expertise.
Very respectfully yours,
TC25Dave - newby
Switches are pretty crappy. I’ve now had to replace the switch twice, but it fixed my problem. Good luck with yours.
Found bad solder joint on original ignition switch and re-soldered it. Hoped it would save me $95, but no such luck. Guess the intermittent connection had caused damage to internal contact(s). Even with new switch, I'm still working the problem by going through each of the various safety switches, relays (and I guess ultimately the diodes) until I get root cause solved. Even though original battery is weak under load, it cranked the tractor when solenoid was jumped. Glad to hear that you got your problem solved, and happy that you took time to add your comments - they add value and remind me that I'm not alone in having some missteps on path to learning. Like the old adage says "He who doesn't make mistakes ain't doin' anything"! Best regards - be safe and well!
Hey - thanks for taking time to share your experience. Battery cables are still on my list to fully check. My tractor is 1999/2000 vintage and since I haven't looked at them in such a long time, I was surprised that see on a couple of tube videos that so much computerization seems to be used in more current models. I subscribe to the theory "Just because you can doesn't mean you should". From the little bit I've seen over the past few days, doesn't seem like tractor computers are a date I want to invite to the dance. Glad to hear that perhaps your own computer problems are not an ongoing issue for you. Thanks and regards!I have a NH Tc30 and had starting problems a few years ago. They use a lot of current and the issue with mine was the computer when I replaced the battery. Replaced both battery cables and it worked for an hour, but eventually had to replace the computer. Only issue I have had in 10 years.
Have a Kioti CK2510HN had a problem not being able to start and would shut down while running! Clutch has to be pushed in to start. Dealer sent me wiring diagram, Was told prior to this to bypass safety switch on seat, the only Kioti model that has it. I found that there is a 5 amp fuse to the starter soloniod that comes loose in the fuse box mounted on the engine fire wall! Pushing the fuse back in allowes me to to start the tractor right up! I have found many loose and missing screws in the hood of my tractor. Almost 200 hours would it happen in a John Deere?