Tater digger/rock picker

   / Tater digger/rock picker #21  
how far below the ground would your potatoes be, if you raise the wheels, onto some timber, then you would be able to angle your blade for that depth, then imagine how high the rear of the reo would have to be to deposit the potatoes, with the drop arms, would you be able to make them adjustable to.
cheers stuart
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker #22  
We always planted our taters in long hills, with most of the taters growing at or above ground level. Although, many of the tater diggers I'm seeing online seem to show them planted flat.

I've been getting some practice with my mill and lathe lately, but I agree there would be benefits of actually having some instruction more than trial and error.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Found some scrap 2in angle behind the shop, so I started fabbing up the mount. Didnt find enough metal to finish it, but I laid it out so maybe you can get and ideal what I have in mind

I measured the shaker and sitting about where it is in the pic, it extends about 2 inches further back than the original hood for the tiller. They might get in the way of walking behind the digger and if they do, I'll just trim them to clear my shins.
 

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   / Tater digger/rock picker #24  
It looks nice.

Be sure to design it so the shaking of the digger doesn't bounce into your tiller tires... otherwise it might not dig for very long.

I was wondering about walking behind the machine, in part because you don't wish to tread on your precious taters (although, I guess stepping on rocks is ok). Can you swing your handles to the side? Elongate the handles? Perhaps add a removable cross bar to the handles that you could hold from the side?
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Nice thing about troybilt tillers, the handles are adjustable up, down, and sideways. It should be easy to adjust them to suit the need.

As for hitting the tiller tires, I dont think its going to be a problem. Looking at the eccentrics and pitman arm on utube, I dont think the digger has to move all that much, mostly just shake forward and back. Maybe a couple of inches. At least thats my starting point. We'll see. If I can get everything rounded up tomorrow, I might get it finished up. Might have to order a couple of pillowblock bearings, Nobody around here stocks more than one of anything anymore. If so, it will probably be next wkend before I can test it out. With all this rain, it might be next wk anyways. Heading to TSC in a little bit, got to find a couple of pullies. Right now I have five generations eating hotdogs and burgers here at the house. Not often you can find 5 generations still alive in the same family. I have a picture of my grandmother with 7 generations of kids and grandkids. She passed away shortly after the picture was taken.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Thought I would get this thing finished or almost finished today. Got the replacement shaft machined early this morning. Made the trip to the metal supply and found that they are still closed for the holiday. I went ahead and ordered the pully's and bearings from Surplus Center. Not much more i can do without some metal. Looks like this project is on hold until next wkend.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker #27  
A few points in various posts that warrant a closer inspection. Rather than repeat them allby quoting, I will refer to the post number. It is 98 in the shade with a hot wind blowing and the only outside jobs I have are all in the sun, so I am hiding.

Millwood#11. I have had another look at the YouTube video. That digger is carrying a lot of soil (and haulms) along with the potatoes and this prevents the damage that would otherwise occur as mentioned by Millwood at #13 with thin skinned potatoes. At #16 CliffordK asks how much abuse potatoes will take. The answer is very little. They suffer internal bruising very easily as well as external wounds – a fact that most people I have known fail to realise. They are not quite as fragile as eggs, but various fungal problems are likely to occur in bulk storage. I used to produce Certified Seed grade at one time as well as having a large number of direct sales outlets for ware, and quality was always the way to sell potatoes.

Muddstopper #18 says the ½” rods will be at 2” centres. That leaves a lot space for good sized seed potatoes to fall through. Volunteer plants will be a great problem the following year. Also, I am not keen on bare metal rods because there will be some damage. The spacing and metal size is not a problem though. Lengths of plastic tubing can be fitted over the rods, a lengthwise knife split allows for easy on/off, and a ½” internal diameter tube will provide the necessary protection. If there are numerous smaller potatoes then another tube to fit over the first reduces the gap even further. I use this system to make bearings on some pieces of equipment. Cheap and easily replaceable. The tubing can be removed for rock picking, or left on if going for smaller sizes after the bigger ones have been removed.

CliffordK #22. I too have always used hills as you call them – ridges or drills where I originated, but it is common practice in many countries for smaller scale growers to grow on the flat, particularly in mainland Europe. As CliffordK says, hills mean that your furrow bottom is below the level of all potatoes, so harvesting is so much simpler, and needs a lot less power than digging deep into the ground.

Millwood #15. When you said 200K tons, meaning 200,000 tons of rock, I assumed you were joking, but meant you had a big problem with a lot of rocks. Most rocks of the world weigh in at about 2 tons to the cubic yard, so 200K tons is roughly 100,000 cubic yards. I though I had done well in removing about 4K cubic yards in a couple of years. 3 mixed with soil to fill in an old shallow quarry (now overplanted with olives) and the rest to make new farm roads.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker
  • Thread Starter
#28  
OldMcdonald, you maybe overthinking what I am trying to do. I am more concerned with doing rock picking than tater digging. I only grow a couple of 100ft rows of taters a year to eat only, none for sale. By the time we gravel on the new taters, I probably wont have over a bushel or two to worry about storeing, and they wont last long before their eaten.

You bring good points about using rubber tube over the rods, this would tighten up the spacing and pickup smaller stuff, like the marble taters usually left in the field. The 1/2in rods with 2in center spacing only leaves about 1 1/2in for dirt to fall thru, a golf ball is 1 3/4dia. 1 1/2in rocks and stones i can live with, its certainly better than the junk I keep throwing out by hand. One thing i have been thinking abut is adding some expanded metal below the rods. I would need to make this detachable, but once the bigger rocks are picked up a little expandable metal would make a pretty good screen for the little stuff. This would only be worth the effort if I can also figure out a way to load the junk as it comes off the shaker into some sort of trailer or skid for removal from the field.

Since I couldnt buy any metal to finish the build, I decided to work on making the eccentric for the shaking action. The shaft I had on hand is 1 1/8 dia. I went to TSc and bought a weldon sprocket hub to make the eccentric out of. there where 2 different thickness of these hubs and I decided to go with the thicker of the two. In hind site, might not be such a great ideal, welding on a 1/2 bolt to the outside dia gives me a stroke of about 3inches. That seems pretty radical to me, but I have made it so I will try it. If this stroke turns out to be to much, I will just remove the bushing and weld a rod to the outside edge of the shaft material. This will cut the stroke about in half. I also am not sure if a 1/2in bolt will standup to the rigors of the shaking, so I might have to upgrade bolt size as well.
 

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   / Tater digger/rock picker #29  
Mudstopper, You posted earlier about the quantity of potatoes you had, so I knew it was not a big acreage. At the same time, the plastic tubing will prevent damage to those you do harvest, it is extremely cheap, and is easily removed for your main purpose of rock picking. On the other hand if you find it easy to harvest the potatoes you might grow enough to last you year round.

I agree with your spacing for rock picking, and if you do decide to go for smaller stuff too, perhaps only where you are to grow potatoes the next year, then metal tubing over the tines might be your easiest and cheapest way. I would favour a skid arrangement for collection of rocks - purely for simplicity. Shallow trays on the skid base that could be manually picked up when full is a possibility once you have cleared most of the bigger stuff and can travel a reasonable distance before the tray is filled. The problem is that stone weighs about 160lbs per cubic foot, so even a tray the width of your picker and one foot long (remembering you are walking behind it) and 6" deep gives you a cubic foot. Space between the stones would probably reduce the load to something that could be manhandled.

A trailer that has wheels adapted to vary the heigh of your pick up box from low down when in use and higher for transport would also work, but a wee bit more complicated. I look forward to what you decide - I like the way you think.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker
  • Thread Starter
#30  
I do increase the size of my garden spots each year. I pick a spot, work on it until its more of a veggie garden than a rock garden and start all over the next year. My whole reason for this digger is to make enlargeing the garden spots a easier chore. So you are right, once I get enough area prepped, I will probably plant a few more rows of taters.

I think I have a plan for getting rid of the rocks once they are seperated from the soil. I own a small ventrac tractor with a scoop. I think I can hook the digger to the scoop pan and push it thru the field. Letting the rocks roll off the digger into the scoop. Once the scoop is full, just unhook from the digger and drive out of the field to dump. This ideal probably wont work to well for collecting taters. For taters, I'll probably just let them fall on the ground and pickup by hand. Now that I think about it, probably should have built the rock picker the width of the scoop and powered it with the ventrac. Dang, another ideal and project. Got to quit thinking about this or I'll have a barn full of diggers and rock pickers.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker #31  
I like it!!!

Assuming you did remodel the stone picker to fit the scoop - not saying you should, of course, but theoretically... how would you set up the shaking arrangement? Do you think that just having the picker on wheels and fitting the shaking arrangement to the wheels might work?

I am asking partly for personal reasons as well as for general discussion. I am presently hand-picking 4 acres of dry fava beans (and I have a few white Lupins too). It will not rain again until October, so there is no urgency, but it is hard on the back and legs, and I have been trying to think of ways to fit some sort of shaker arrangement to the rear of my hay cutting mower, letting the pods (and some stalk) travel into a skid box. Before anybody suggests it, there are no combine harvesters available, other than importing new, and that is not economic. Nor do I have the cash anyway. Threshing ideas can wait until I have worked out how to collect the crop.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Now your making me think!!! Dangerous situation.

Right now i am thinking about a pushbar to just push the entire thing. Making the bar just long enough that the edge of the scoop just sets under the shaking tines. I dont think it would be all that hard to rig up something on a fel bucket. Build some sort of bolt on framework to mount the shaker to the sides of the bucket, make a engine mount, or if you have the hydraulics, use a hydraulic motor to make the thing shake. Probably need some sort of skid to keep the cutting edge from going to deep, adjustable wheels would do. Need the mount to be on some time of hinge so that the shaker would move out of the way when when dumping the bucket. Probably need to drink a couple of cups of coffee or other beverage, look at it some, I'm sure it can be figured out. Got an ideal might work, let me see if i can find a link to an implement I am thinking could be easily modified.

The Ventrac KR Terra Rakes - YouTube
I own one of these tractors so this rake is what I am thinking could be modified pretty easily. Have to use your imagination, but the wheels out front would be your depth adjustment. Make the shaker box to replace the current tines. Make a mount to attach to the top of your fel bucket. Use a hydraulic cylinder to lift the rake out of the way when dumping and a hydraulic motor to provide the rotation for your shaker box. Make sure the tines of the shakerbox extends to just inside the fel bucket and maybe add taller sides so things dont leak out around the edges. Anyways, i think this would work for picking rocks and maybe taters. I dont know anything about fava beans or how to pick them. Are these beans picked green or are they harvested like soybeans when they dry on the stalks.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker #33  
I can see you building one of those.

I do not want to take your thread off-topic, so will probably later start one about collecting crops cut with the cutter bar. I grow a lot of legumes (relative to my semi-retirement 16 acres) specifically for animal feed, pick fresh whatever we want for the house, aiming to freeze enough for the whole year, and let the rest dry. Some crops I feed whole, others I pick the pods and store for later use. It is a good protein source to complement sudan grass hay and corn, which I also grow and hand pick. Picking corn is a lot easier than the various peas, beans and lupins.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker #34  
How is the digger/picker build going Muddstopper? Got more pics on the progress?

Had my eye on a very hard used single row potato harvester that would have meant lots of bearing and chain replacement, plus straightening some damage from a tractor hit on the sheet metal side, but it got sold and I'm not sorry.

My crop is about three weeks from harvest so I broke down and bought a new single row harvester. Figure I'll have to sell spuds for the next 100 years to recoup the investment cost.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Planning on restarting this project tomorrow. I work out of town during the wk so No progress to report. Did get my pullies and bearing from Surplus center in the mail. Got to see the Doc in the morning and then the honey do list, then back to "hiding" in the shop.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker #36  
keen to see how this goes
cheers stuart
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Got a little work done on the picker. To many honey do's to get it finished, but I'm close.
I used a piece of 6 x1/4 plate to make a mounting point for the digger frame. I cut it and drilled it so that it bolted on top of the transmission and runs all the way to the back of the tiller where it is also bolted in the original holes. I had to extend it beyond the end of the tiller so it would be long enough to mount the digger frame on.

The wheels are mounted on a 1x1 sq bar. This I will drill several adjustment holes so I can adjust digging depth. I am thinking about welding a piece of angle across the top of the wheel posts and using a piece of allthread rod to make height adjustment just a turn of a screw.

The swing arms have several holes 1in apart and the digger plate has 3 holes each side drilled 2in apart. this should give me plenty of adjustment. I suspect the swing arms will be longer than needed, but I will cut them off later after testing it out. I Made the frame out of 1x2 11ga tube. Its 24in wide by 18in long.

Engine is a new Predator, 6.5hp from Harbor Freight. Well one site says its 6.5hp and another calls it a 7hp, anyway it should work. So far i have about $250 in this build, but thats because I have been buying all new steel and the engine cost just over $100, machine work was another $50. I still have to source a pulley for the engine, but Its pretty close to being finished and I dont see any other major expenses.

I am done working on it for this wk, probably finish it up next wk and be ready for a test run.
 

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   / Tater digger/rock picker #38  
Lookin' good!
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker #39  
Into my spud harvest with the used Spedo CPP-T, single row digger. First row the crank bearing went south and getting it out meant not only pulling the snap ring, but also heating up the carrier with rosebud to drive it out. I guess I can understand it, since it was a sealed bearing which I'm not a big fan of in dirt applications and lots of RPM's. Before I put the new one in I drilled and tapped the carrier and installed a zerk, then installed a bearing with a groove all the way around the middle of the outer race that has 4 holes into the rollers. 3 each 125 foot rows and two pumps of grease. We will see how it holds up. So far averaging 165 pounds of Burbank Russets per row. I think that's a little above the norm.
 
   / Tater digger/rock picker
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Had to put my project on hold for the last couple of wks. Had big problem at work and ended up putting in 87 hrs. Practically working 24/7 until track was repaired. Did piddel with it some last wk. Got the eccentrics worked out. Just need a pulley for the engine and mounting a tensioner pulley and it will be ready for a test run. Local mower shop says they have a couple of engine pullies that might work. Will find out tomorrow.
 

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