chim
Elite Member
As mentioned earlier, mine has been configured a few different ways. Below is the current setup that I used this morning. It retains the capability to be mounted on the TPH. The 12V demand pump runs via an inline toggle switch on a cord in the cab. With two spray nozzles on the boom it covers about 10' of width. One benefit of having it on the forks is when it comes time to clean up and rinse the tank. Fill'er up about 1/2 way and do some curl-dump-curl-dump action to slosh it around, remove the bung on top and dump. Refill about half again, run the boom and wand to clear everything and go dump again.
Also found a couple small things that made life easier. The W&F ratio is 3 quarts W&F to 15 gallons of water. The kitty litter bucket is marked at 3 quarts and pouring into the spray tank using a corner makes it very easy to get the chemicals into the tank without spilling a drop. The garden hose has a ball valve that is easy to work with a thumb and the ~24" piece of black hose connected to it has a plain end. The plain end gives a nice smooth round flow that makes way fewer suds when shooting water into the tank. It stirs the tank but makes less turbulence than a hose with a male end and MUCH less than a hose with a nozzle.
Piece of PVC for the wand holster, some double-sided Velcro to manage the hose and away you go
EDIT: The water on the tractor is rain and not chemicals. I was using the sprayer yesterday till the wind got too strong. I left the setup parked near the house and it rained a little during the night.
Also found a couple small things that made life easier. The W&F ratio is 3 quarts W&F to 15 gallons of water. The kitty litter bucket is marked at 3 quarts and pouring into the spray tank using a corner makes it very easy to get the chemicals into the tank without spilling a drop. The garden hose has a ball valve that is easy to work with a thumb and the ~24" piece of black hose connected to it has a plain end. The plain end gives a nice smooth round flow that makes way fewer suds when shooting water into the tank. It stirs the tank but makes less turbulence than a hose with a male end and MUCH less than a hose with a nozzle.
Piece of PVC for the wand holster, some double-sided Velcro to manage the hose and away you go
EDIT: The water on the tractor is rain and not chemicals. I was using the sprayer yesterday till the wind got too strong. I left the setup parked near the house and it rained a little during the night.
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Joe1
Platinum Member
I bought a 25 gallon tank with a 2.5 gallon RV Pump and mounted it to a light metal frame which I had made with two 4' swing out arms making for a total 12' wide when open or 4' closed I attached hoses opn the swing arms with zip ties with spray outles about every 12 inches. I also added a 50' hose with a wand which I coil around the tank. I mount it to a 3 point fork lift with bungee cords for 15 or so years ago.
I ran a wire with fuse under the frame of my JD 770 with an on off switch on the dash and a pig tail under the frame to a rear fender with a zip tie. The tank has a pig tail I plug into the tractor line for power. When not used for the sprayer, I have another power line at the rear of the tractor so I can use an auxillary light if necessary with a magnetic base to the ROPE.
From the pump, I run a hose to a valve which has a return to the tank and a valve to either the wand or the fixed sprayer. This way, I can control the volume and pressure by the return valve which just pumps the overflow back into the tank and I can decide if it want the wan\d or the fixed sprayer.
This way, I can turn the pump on and off from the seat, and I can drive the tractor with the wand and spray along a road etc., with the fixed sprayer off, or walk around with the 50' hose or have the wand off and the fixed sprayer for field work. It takes about 5' minutes or less to remove the tank so I can use the fork lift.
It cost a little more at the JD dealer for the parts, but I avoided the Harbor Fright or Farm Supply quality issues. If the pump goes I can replace it at an RV supply. So far, it's about 15 years old and still works when I need it.
I ran a wire with fuse under the frame of my JD 770 with an on off switch on the dash and a pig tail under the frame to a rear fender with a zip tie. The tank has a pig tail I plug into the tractor line for power. When not used for the sprayer, I have another power line at the rear of the tractor so I can use an auxillary light if necessary with a magnetic base to the ROPE.
From the pump, I run a hose to a valve which has a return to the tank and a valve to either the wand or the fixed sprayer. This way, I can control the volume and pressure by the return valve which just pumps the overflow back into the tank and I can decide if it want the wan\d or the fixed sprayer.
This way, I can turn the pump on and off from the seat, and I can drive the tractor with the wand and spray along a road etc., with the fixed sprayer off, or walk around with the 50' hose or have the wand off and the fixed sprayer for field work. It takes about 5' minutes or less to remove the tank so I can use the fork lift.
It cost a little more at the JD dealer for the parts, but I avoided the Harbor Fright or Farm Supply quality issues. If the pump goes I can replace it at an RV supply. So far, it's about 15 years old and still works when I need it.
N7HEVN
Member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2019
- Messages
- 33
- Tractor
- Kubota
Regarding the leaking wand, and on the smaller Gallon size models, I had a similar experience with the cheap and simple plastic ones they provide.
I bought this one, and so far it works really good.
I bought this one, and so far it works really good.
