Tank Oil Change

[Barryh]

I changed the original 5w30 to Mobil 1 15w50 and there was a big difference. I was always getting stuck without spinning the wheels, now I rarely have a problem. I do keep the PT in a garage which rarely gets below 60.

Hmm that's interesting Bob how long have you been running the 15w50 ?

 

[Barryh]

YMMV, of course, but...When it comes to older seals, I wouldn't worry about a viscosity change. Changing all of the oil to all synthetic, or adding some huge amount of additives might give me pause, but even then, I wouldn't worry about it. Most of the stories of synthetic oil leaks from cars that I have read have been from very old cars, which were made with much higher tolerances, long miles (and therefore deposits and wear), and thus very, very, old seals.

All the best, Peter

Your probably right, I may consider a 50 like Bob and Moss but going with regular oil this time around. I know I have fine metal particles in my oil tank after checking the magnets. So I will go with the less expensive Dino this time to flush them out. I may revisit the more expensive synthetic later down the road.

 

[Barryh]

I suppose I could be pre-emptive, inspect the oil, and do an oil change if neccessary, but my guess is if I do that, I'll soon thereafter bust a hose and lose my oil investment. So, I'm thinking about just maintaining the course, doing better hose inspections, change any damaged ones ASAP, etc... and wait until a catastrophic failure to do a total pump/hose/wheel motor, and oil change if needed.

I hate to fix something that's not broken yet. I'll just keep up with the PM (preventative maintenance) program and see how it goes.

Agreed.... In my case I need to recharge the tank with fresh oil, I may consider trying the 10w50 also .. Like you said that's when I'll bust a hose ... Such is life.. :laughing:

 

[BobRip]

Not long, about 15 years.

 

[BobRip]

Just to be clear, I never have to start it below 60 degrees, so I don稚 know what it would do. I love the extra wheel motor torque.

 

[Barryh]

Just to be clear, I never have to start it below 60 degrees, so I don稚 know what it would do. I love the extra wheel motor torque.

Gotcha my garage is not heated..

 

[MossRoad]

A heated garage will definately help with starting issues and 15W oil VS 0W oil, however, once it gets warmed up, and then hot, its the high number that counts.

 

[Barryh]

OK ordered 10 gallons of Mobile One 10w40 for in my tank. Probably do the change next weekend. Any advice or other tips on how to flush out the tank to remove bottom sludge before I add the new oil? Of course I know how this goes. After I replace with fresh synthetic I'll blow a hose .. So be it , old machine I plan to keep so I want the best in the tank to help prolong the pumps. I also ordered a NAPA 1551 oil filter as suggested from the Power Trac Parts Cross Reference Thread. Anyone using this filter, thanks.

Next up, Mobile one synthetic engine oil for the old Kohler new plugs plug wires ... Then an adapter plate to convert the old 3 pin for newer attachments .

 

[cqaigy2]

I'd probably use rag to wipe out the tank then go back to it with something like kerosene and rags. But if you really want it clean there is an automotive solvent then you use soapy hot water to wash it off and out. Dry it well and that would be pretty clean.

 

[MossRoad]

Which Kohler engine do you have in there? I know on mine, I can't just order plug wires. I have to order two entire ignition modules. The plug wires are permanently attached to those.

 

[MuncyBob]

That's the Napa filter I've been using for years now, no problems.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I am not a fan of water in any oil tank. Brake clean is my choice, and you can usually get it in buckets.

 

[cqaigy2]

I am not a fan of water in any oil tank. Brake clean is my choice, and you can usually get it in buckets.

Yes, you would definitely want to make sure it's water free before filling it.

 

[Barryh]

That's the Napa filter I've been using for years now, no problems.

Thanks good to know ..

 

[Barryh]

Yes, you would definitely want to make sure it's water free before filling it.

Thanks for the info will drive it up onto a 6x6 to tilt. Think I will just use soft clean rags to wipe it out. As I've never emptied one of these tanks. What about the fluid in the hose's etc do they drain out into the tank or stay in the lines? Guessing afterwards just refill and do the air bubble bleed using the battery same as changing out the filter.

 

[Barryh]

Which Kohler engine do you have in there? I know on mine, I can't just order plug wires. I have to order two entire ignition modules. The plug wires are permanently attached to those.

Have not really looked that closely as of now. But your probably right nice to know .. It's a 95 Kohler Command 25 hp..

 

[Barryh]

I am not a fan of water in any oil tank. Brake clean is my choice, and you can usually get it in buckets.

Agreed ..

 

[MossRoad]

Have not really looked that closely as of now. But your probably right nice to know .. It's a 95 Kohler Command 25 hp..

The first week I had my PT I purchased the maintenance and parts manuals for that engine.... now they are all free on-line.

 

[coolconnection]

Thanks for the info will drive it up onto a 6x6 to tilt. Think I will just use soft clean rags to wipe it out. As I've never emptied one of these tanks. What about the fluid in the hose's etc do they drain out into the tank or stay in the lines? Guessing afterwards just refill and do the air bubble bleed using the battery same as changing out the filter.

Just have lots of containers to catch all the fluid. It is hard to put that little slippery drain plug back in while it is pouring out of the hole. I have done it a few times. Most of the fluid does drain out of the lines but some does remain. But since you are not taking the main pump off it might not be much of a problem. Once you take off the top plate above the holding tank you should have enough room to wipe it out. It might be tight in places and watch out for little sharp inside welds. They'll cut ya. It is also good to try to tilt your tractor to one side so it drains out easier. Good luck. What are you going to seal the plate back down with. When I took mine off it wasn't held on by anything but the bolts and the gasket was shot thus the oil weep all the time from it. I cleaned the area good with some alcohol and used some blue RTV sealant around it and it has worked great so far.

After filling just bleed out like normal until no air bubbles.

 

[Barryh]

My old machine does not have the black plate just a solid tank with cap but I will change out a cotton rag around some heavy duty wire and swab it out until it is clean. Thanks for the tips.