T5C Hydraulic oil drain plug?

[PatLan]

So today I decided to change the hydraulic oil in my newly acquired T5C. I can't find a drain plug or valve to empty the tank.

I finally took off the hydraulic filter to drain the oil. Am I missing a plug somewhere? Looks to me like draining it this way leaves 1/2" or so of old oil but I can't find a plug in the bottom of the tank

Also does anyone have any maintance information on the T5C. Like pictures or drawings showing where drain plugs, grease zerks etc. are located? I think I have seen everything on the Terramite website.

Thanks
Pat

 

[deerseeker001]

Welcome from Wisconsin

 

[deerseeker001]

I am sure someone will be able to help you.

 

[murphy1244]

I am sure someone will be able to help you.

.......................

 

[pontiac58]

I don't think there is one. Im pretty sure that is how i changed the oil in my machine also. I may be wrong though its been a couple of years.

I believe the parts manual has a breakdown of where the zerks are.

 

[Terrasteve]

Should be a plug in the bottom of the tank. Mine is flush with the bottom of the tank with a allen head plug. Could be that there is dirt and oil hiding the plug from plain view.

 

[Alan7s]

Here's a chart of Zerk fittings on my T5C I printed up and laminated and pasted to the inside of the engine compartment.

Front suspension & steering 9

Loader 12

Outriggers 6

Boom swing 6

Gas pedal 1

Hoe controls 2

Engine compartment 5

Boom 11
__________________________________

Total 52

 

[PatLan]

Thanks for the help.

I cleaned the bottom of the oil tank. No plug. Called Terramite and they confirmed on my 98 model T5C there is no oil plug. You drain it by removing the hydraulic filter. I didn't think to ask them if other year models had a plug.

After I drained it there was about 3/4" of oil left in the tank. I used a gear oil pump the suck about two more quarts out.

Thanks for the zerk fitting list.

Now I need to get started on my missing diesel fuel filter problem and get some leaking cylinders rebuilt.

 

[Alan7s]

OK good luck on the cylinder rebuild. I have finished 4 of mine - 2 outriggers, front & rear curl. As others have said, not that bad a job. Two tricks I learned; taking the nut off the piston once you get the thing apart was easy by holding the cylinder in a big bench vise and then using the breaker bar (1/2" drive) with a 2' length of pipe extension on the handle. Also, I finally made a spanner wrench by cutting a large washer in half, welding on pins and and a handle. Wow, is it easy to get that wire retainer out with the right tool.

I found 2 more zerks so the correct total is now 52 (on mine anyway) I'll try to post an updated chart later.

 

[PatLan]

Was wondering where you bought your seals? Did you get a kit or individual pieces. Did they include the retaining wire? How much do they cost?

Your homemade spanner sounds neat. Did it fit all of the different cylinders?

So many questions about my new toy!

Thanks

 

[Alan7s]

I bought the seals at a hydraulic place in the city nearby. It's really worth it to locate the best (not necessarily the nearest - unfortunately) because you develop a relationship with them and if they're not too big, they will help you out. I brought in the seals on a ring (at their request), and they worked off of them because they're pretty standard. Once you get a cyl apart, you'll find 3 rings on the piston end (two large around the outside of the piston end, and a small O-ring under it, and 4 or 5 on the gland end (the end that has the spanner holes. The outer seal is called the wiper and is pretty standard. Then on the inside and outside of the gland, there will be the gland seals, usually an O-ring with a spacer beside it. If you ask them to try to find the equivalent one piece seal for the inside groove that will replace the O-ring and spacer, they may find it for you and it's a more reliable seal. Costs a bit more but well worth it. Costs can be around $20 + or - for the bunch.

Then too they will make up replacement hyd hoses - often while you wait; they're expensive .60 an inch and $8 for end fittings. but they last many years and eliminate the drips and blown hoses in the middle of a job. Save the best long one for an emergency spare.

Hope this helps. . . .

Unless the retaining wire is shot, you can reuse it. Someone suggested getting a length of 1/8" copper coated wire from a welding shop and making your own 90 degree hook on the end. The square steel retainers they sell commercially can be tight (or impossible) to install and they are expensive.

If you want I can send you a pix of the spanner wretch I built. With a little filing, it has fit so far, but I understand it may not work on the big (?) ones.

 

[chicora1hillbilly]

Hope you are aware that these tractors DO NOT use a standard hydraulic oil. They use a multi vis. motor oil in the hydraulic system.

 

[Alan7s]

Yes, I'm using 10-30 and keeping it in the garage there's been no starting issues. Previous owner kept it outside so I'm guessing that took its toll on seals. I'd sure like to hear from anyone who has removed the swing cylinders; so far can't budge the pins from the upper side, and too cold to try anything from the underside.

 

[sampen]

Alan I have replace mine on my t-3-15 yes they can be a bear to get out. I had to use a air chisel to get mine out. I'm assuming the t5 has the pins going up to remove you can purchase a cheap air chisel from walmart or Harbor freight just put it at the center pull the trigger it should come out. make sure you clean the pins real good when reinstalling them and grease.
Sam

 

[Alan7s]

Sam; Thanks for the reply; Yes mine are vertical - the top flange is on the floor under the seat, and then down thru the cylinder and through the lower flange on a steel plate below. They go up to remove. So you put the air chisel under the pin from down below to hammer up? You must have used a blunt end rather than the chisel to keep from cutting the end of the pin? Or are you using the chisel as a pry from the top side, prying under the steel strap that bolts the pin in place?

 

[sampen]

Yes from down below and I used the chisel end didn't hurt the pin a little maring but nothing serious. just push's the pin up. Not as pry bar. came out pretty easy when i did it. you can get replacement cylinders from DaltonHydraulic.com if you need them I think they were 65.00 each at the time(last Year) Good Luck
Sam

 

[MichaelBC]

So today I decided to change the hydraulic oil in my newly acquired T5C. I can't find a drain plug or valve to empty the tank.

I finally took off the hydraulic filter to drain the oil. Am I missing a plug somewhere? Looks to me like draining it this way leaves 1/2" or so of old oil but I can't find a plug in the bottom of the tank

Also does anyone have any maintance information on the T5C. Like pictures or drawings showing where drain plugs, grease zerks etc. are located? I think I have seen everything on the Terramite website.

Thanks
Pat

You can drain all of the reservoir by removing the hose on the opposite side of the tank that goes to the tranny.