Sweet corn "isolation required"

[CMV]

Was going to do some corn & summer squash this year. Can get those in & done before time for pumpkins to go in the ground. Not a lot of corn - maybe 4000 seeds or so. The descriptions for various seeds say "isolation required" and the rows or 2 areas to plant aren't really far enough apart to prevent cross pollination. So does that mean just pick one type & go with it? Or is sweet corn sweet corn and it would only be a concern if I had other types like decorative or feed corn going too?

Was wanting a few different types - just to see what holds up to bugs and whatnot the best, what does best in my soil [orange clay], and maybe have some separation where it isn't all wanting picked at same time.

Oh - and is a horribly bad idea to do squash & corn, then follow with pumpkins in same place, same year? Kind of thinking would be a good opportunity to get the bugs that got a lot of my pumpkins last year - let the squash draw them in & concentrated in that area, then insecticide when squash/corn are done but before pumpkins get started. I get a little of a pine chip/chicken poo mix from a friend so will have some organic material to till in between them, but it isn't much. I get a pickup bed at a time, plus whatever small compost piles I have produce.

This is more hobby than anything. We about broke even on pumpkins last year (assuming we work at $0/hr). Did a little squash, but didn't sell any - that was all for us & to give away. We gave a LOT away since they did pretty well. Probably same this year....sell the pumpkins, give away squash & corn.

 

[Diggin It]

Dunno, haven't read up that much on it so I'll be interested to see what others say. I have three varieties of sweet corn and was hoping to do a few rows of each next to each other.

 

[randy41]

corn varieties should be isolated so that what you harvest is true to the seed you planted. isolation can also mean by pollination time rather then by distance.

 

[ruffdog]

Winter squashes and pumpkins (for pies) do not mix good either.

 

[Jstpssng]

corn varieties should be isolated so that what you harvest is true to the seed you planted. isolation can also mean by pollination time rather then by distance.

How much does cross pollination matter if you're not raising seed? I've always staggered my plantings anyways, as I can only eat so much corn.

4000 seeds is a LOT of corn! 300 dozen ears even if you only get one per stalk. Do you sell, give it away, or freeze the surplus?

 

[Diggin It]

I was thinking 4K was a bit more than one person could use. I have three small packets, maybe a 100 or so in each. I may sell some to the neighbors or give some to a food bank. I don't eat much of it, but want to do something different.

 

[randy41]

How much does cross pollination matter if you're not raising seed? I've always staggered my plantings anyways, as I can only eat so much corn.

4000 seeds is a LOT of corn! 300 dozen ears even if you only get one per stalk. Do you sell, give it away, or freeze the surplus?

when you're growing sweet corn the seed is what you're raising.

 

[Diggin It]

Disagree. Most plant it for food, even though it's the seed we eat. Planting for seed means letting the kernels dry and packaging for planting next year.

 

[CMV]

I have no idea what kind of survival rate they'll have. So 4,000 seeds minus what doesn't sprout, minus what some critter chews up as a seedling, minus what some other critter tramples, minus plants/ears bugs destroy, minus what doesn't get pollinated, etc....no idea what final yield would be from that. But since seeds come in increments of 500/1k figured 4k would be good number and could do 4 types maybe? Not a farmer by any means - just something to do with land that is otherwise idle. Also something constructive for me to do after work & on weekends so I'm not idle either

Our church is pretty big & supports numerous other outreach groups - plenty of them would be grateful for a bunch of corn & squash if everything grows well. Won't go to waste that's for sure. Even the leftover pumpkins we had last year - took them & fed to pigs & turkeys at a nearby farm. Had no idea turkeys ate pumpkins.....

 

[Jstpssng]

^^^^
That's a good plan. Your statement "Not a lot of corn - maybe 4000 seeds or so" just seemed ironic to me. I try to start mine inside so that I don't sacrifice as much to crows, but that would be quite time consuming in the quantities which you are growing. I also like to hill my corn, for stronger root systems. By planting seedlings I can use the trencher on my Troybilt to dig a trough and bury them a bit deeper.

 

[dieselscout80]

Here is a seed population chart for corn and soybeans.

http://www.kingsagriseeds.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/conversions.pdf

 

[Jstpssng]

^^^^
About 4 seeds per foot is what they recommend.

 

[Streetcar]

Sweet corn needs to be isolated if it is the super sweet type. Cross pollination with different type causes starch in kernel

 

[Diggin It]

I just need to come up with a simple but effective way to put them down. I can't see paying a $100 for a seeder that's a couple of wheels and some metal. Might go old school with a stick with a step attached. Place, step, lift, drop seed, cover.

 

[CMV]

^^^^
About 4 seeds per foot is what they recommend.

My 4k guess was pretty good then. 3 areas that are roughly 50 x 150' or about 1/2 acre in all, but shared with some squash. Can always save some for next year too if it seems like that will be too much.

ON a side note.....I noticed some corn fields around here last year that never got picked. They just left the plants up with ears on them over winter. About 10AC I pass on way to work every day and they just left the corn there. Thought that was strange, but must be some reason. Maybe to feed deer or something? It was pretty dry last summer so maybe it just wasn't good...no idea....

 

[CMV]

I just need to come up with a simple but effective way to put them down. I can't see paying a $100 for a seeder that's a couple of wheels and some metal. Might go old school with a stick with a step attached. Place, step, lift, drop seed, cover.

Don't know right way, but after tilling was real easy to just go back over leaving small trenches where I wanted rows (leaving kickstand down on tiller did that while tilling accidentally, but worked ). Walk along dropping seeds, then go back & cover with a rake. For such small areas it was pretty painless getting them in the ground. I wouldn't want to do 80 AC that way....

 

[/pine]

I just need to come up with a simple but effective way to put them down. I can't see paying a $100 for a seeder that's a couple of wheels and some metal. Might go old school with a stick with a step attached. Place, step, lift, drop seed, cover.

Just find a manual or pull behind tool that makes a furrow deep enough for the crop...walk along and drop the seeds in a furrow...I make two furrows for each row about 4"-5" apart...space seeds in the center furrow and side dressing (fertilizer) in the other...then cover to depth...this sort of mimics the "EarthBox" gardening system outside the box...

A hiller/bedder toolbar with some different sweeps is an inexpensive implement that is extremely variable in what you can do in a garden with one...especially after tilling...I made a flip down paddle blade that covers the seed and side dressing at the same time makes a third shallow furrow between the first two to channel irrigation water....

 

[Jstpssng]

We always used a rake or hoe. After tilling it's pretty easy to make a furrow, then cover it back over with the same tool.
re, turkeys eating pumpkins; last week I took my squash that was going bad and put them in the hen house.
There isn't much left of it now.

 

[Firemanbuck]

Sweet corn needs to be isolated if it is the super sweet type. Cross pollination with different type causes starch in kernel

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This

 

[nybirdman]

Sweet corn will cross pollinate with "field" type corn;I found out the hard way.Stagger your plantings dates.Makes for poor sweet corn if it crosses.