Super A won't start

[jeffgreef]

I've ignored my super A for 5-6 years, trying to fire it up, won't start. Been in a shed the whole time.

New 12volt battery, new alternator which I bought 6 years ago and installed yesterday, paper says ADR0152Y. Negative ground. New coil, internal resistor. Wiring matches diagram I got with the alternator for 12 volt conversion. No resistor before the coil. The 6 volt battery setup that was on the tractor previously was converted to neg ground with alternator, and a ballast resistor (I guess) in front of the old coil. I eliminated it because the new coil says internally resisted.

New plugs, plug wires. Carb getting fuel, maybe too much, I flooded it first try with too much choke, air cleaner got 1/2 cup of fuel in it.

Points look good, no rust.

Thoughts?

 

[jeffgreef]

Amp meter apparently dead, doesn't move at all. Ignition switch was working 6 years ago.

 

[John0829]

Are you sure you have spark? Pull a plug wire and check for bright blue spark, if none then run a wire from the battery directly to the coil and try again.

 

[jeffgreef]

I'll try that John. So what do I do- place the plug wire so it can ground out on metal and watch while I crank it?

 

[John0829]

Leave a small gap so you can watch to see if jumps the gap.

 

[jeffgreef]

No spark. Put the volt meter to it, getting 12v to the positive side of the coil, nothing to the other side. It's new, or was when bought 6 years ago, never used. Defective coil? Says ABC509 12V Internally resisted on it. I'll try a replacement. What's the right coil to use? Thanks

 

[SteveS42240]

Check the points, rotor cap and button. Make sure none of the contacts have corroded. Corrosion prevents electricity from passing through the circuit.

 

[MRTOES]

If the condenser has been around that long replace it.....a bad one can play havoc on your system....

 

[jeffgreef]

Gonna replace points, condenser, cap and rotor. How do I verify the coil with a volt meter?

Thanks guys!

 

[Notforhire]

The way a ballast resistor setup works;
When the engine is cranking and the voltage is pulled down by the starter, the resistor is out of the circuit.
Once the engine starts and the key is in the run position the coil is feed through the ballast resistor.

 

[BleedingOrange]

Before replacing all those parts, run a points file or a piece of sandpaper thru the closed points. Doesn,t take much for them to corrode and not make contact like they should. Use a 12 volt test light to check for continuity of negative ground on both sides of the points when they are closed.

 

[DJ54]

No spark. Put the volt meter to it, getting 12v to the positive side of the coil, nothing to the other side. It's new, or was when bought 6 years ago, never used. Defective coil? Says ABC509 12V Internally resisted on it. I'll try a replacement. What's the right coil to use? Thanks

"Noting on the other side" may be attributed to the points not making contact in the position the distributor is setting in. Take a simple test light touch the post on the post going to distributor and ground it out. With ignition switch on and in neutral turn the engine over with the starter, the test light should flash on & off if the coil is good. You can still use your voltmeter, you'll just see the needle jump, or a reading for a split second. If you have a crank, you can turn it until points make contact, then you can test for voltage coming out of the coil. Just do a quick read to prevent burning points.

With the points in that position making contact, with the cap and dust cover removed, you can manually break the points with a small screwdriver. You should see a slight spark when you break the points. If no spark, it's one of two things. Bad condenser, or the insulator going through the side of the distributor is cracked allowing the wire to short out to the distributor case.

(The way a ballast resistor setup works;
When the engine is cranking and the voltage is pulled down by the starter, the resistor is out of the circuit.
Once the engine starts and the key is in the run position the coil is feed through the ballast resistor.) That is only on systems wired to work that way from the factory, and to give a good hot spark to start, then when switch is released to go back to 6V to run so the points will last longer. On this A, it's just cutting 12V back to 6V before getting to the 6V coil. All 12V systems are that way with an inline resistor inline somewhere to reduce back to 6V for longer points life. Mopar's are noted for having the ceramic ballast resistor, much like used on tractors with 12V conversion mounted on the firewall for this purpose. Back in the day, it was wise to have a spare in the glove box, as after a few years, they could burn out at any time.

Being this coil is internally resisted, he should be good as is if it is working. Testing for output voltage is in the first paragraph.