Stump Grinder Questions!

[Scotty370]

It's coming! Bought the Hydro valves, gearbox, fabbed all the parts and pieces, and it's to the point now where little more can be done [on the stovetop ] Fired up the new welder the other day, and it's going to be sweet! Got side-tracked with Willl, from this board, on a brush/log grapple, so I've been developing drawings, and buying parts for that also! All my welding has to be done outside in my rear drive, and the weather just hasn't been cooperating! Man it's been a long winter in Western NY. More to follow. "Scotty"

 

[SuperDuty335]

Waiting patiently...

 

[Dongerosa]

still waiting.....

 

[Scotty370]

Man, you guys are like a dog that stumbles upon an old bone in the garage, and just has to ‘chomp’ every so often! Since I’ve been ‘prodded’, and another 3-PH- Stump Grinder thread was resurrected from almost 5years ago, just thought I’d chime in with what I’ve learned thus far. I’m attempting to ‘clone’ a WorkSaver SG26. The frame, and assembling plates and hardware can be readily fabricated by anyone with OA torch and grinding skills. The stick welding that I’ve just started to learn, will be adequate to glue everything together. I used all new steel. I know, I know.. A major ’sin’ for those of you with a junk-yard eye! Heck, J_J could build one out of trailer hitches! That said, the components do start to get pricey! Your looking at two rams, a control valve, gearbox, drive shaft, retrofitting your tractor for rear hydro ports, (if you don’t have them), and lastly, the cutter wheel and teeth! The wheel, of course, is the critical part of the mix! I had a piece of ½” plate that I could have cut one from, (I’m going 22” dia.) but it had an ever so slight ’bow’ that I’ve opted not to chance. Torch cutting ½” is tough enough, add in balance, and a 3” center hole that must be, well, in the center, and you can see where I‘m going!!! My steel outlet can get one cut for $200.-. Probably going to go that route. Then come the teeth! $300-! The folks (Jeff) at GreenTeeth.com, have been excellent. They even patterned out a layout for teeth placement for me. They ’spiral’ toward the center. Da Bear, pretty much had it ‘aced’ with his comment two days after my initial post. It is a big undertaking, but, I’ve always been a ‘gamer’! Guess what I wanted to say is, know exactly what your getting into before building from scratch. This is most decidedly, not a concession post. I’m not quitting! “Whatever doesn’t kill ya makes you stronger”, I will say though, I think my bankroll for this project’s on life support! Opps! I think I saw my wallet ’twitch’!!! Got to go order some more stuff! I’ve got a full complement of drawings, and would be glad to help anyone that has an eye on the build! ~Scotty

 

[woodlandfarms]

Pix please

 

[kruszert]

I am in the process of building the same thing for my Kioti DK 35. Don't know how I missed this post but this is the first time I have seen it.

I am a LOT slower than you are - - - have been building it for about a year picking up scrap pieces to fit but am getting very close to finishing now. I am using the Greenteeth on an 18" wheel 3/4" thick. My estimated cost when I started was a little off (OK a lot). I am driving the wheel with a chain from the gearbox - - didn't like using the gearbox shaft as the wheel drive shaft like the Worksaver stump grinder due to load on the bearings. However, #100 roller chain and sprockets don't come cheap plus you add a couple of bearings for the 2" shaft I used for the grinding wheel and costs go up. It will still be a lot cheaper than the Worksaver 26 which I couldn't afford.

I am rotating the shaft to throw chips away from the tractor - - similar to the Worksaver I think. Hope this isn't a mistake because it would not be an easy one to correct at this point.

Hope you finish and tell us this works great the first time with no modifications. I am too close to finishing to change much at this point without a bunch of work. I am hoping for a June completion - - can't do much this month due to traveling a bunch for work.

Reggie

 

[Scotty370]

KZ-Thanks for chimeing in! I also thought of the Shaft/Pillow block method, but opted for the gearbox. No question the gearbox bearings are going to be tested!!! Hey, Columbus took a chance! My 'prodders' SD335 & DG will be encouraged to know I've started to weld it up! Guess it's good to get their 'wake-up' call from time to time! Keep us posted on your progress. ~Scotty

 

[woodlandfarms]

Reggi and Scotty, please post pix...

 

[J_J]

Scotty370, It seems like you have most of the parts for your stump grinder, but did you ever consider using a hydraulic motor if your tractor would support the flow requirement? A direct drive hydraulic motor stump grinder could be mounted on the front, or back and using one cylinder for swing,

 

[Scotty370]

WLF- Pixs coming this weekend, Promise! I just got the frame welded up this afternoon with the hydro-mounting hinges, and swing arm assembly. Also welded on the Top Link brackets and lift arm plates & pins. Bought a top link at TSC, but I'm missing one of the "balls" that goes into the top of the liftarms at the rocker-shaft. JD wanted $32-!!!! Found one on-line for $12- + $7- shipping! It's a 1-3/8" steel ball with a 3/4" hole!! (Come on guys!!!).
J_J- I considered it (Hydro) briefly. I don't think I've got the pump capacity. From the manual: "Pump capacity (main) at rated speed- 7.3gpm; Pump capacity (power steering) at rated speed- 4.6gpm: Total flow of pumps at rated speed- 11.9gpm. It would of been nice just to replace my backhoe bucket with a Hydro-Wheel, but the BH has such 'slop' in it, that I think it would be a real danger! Given that no one appears to have gone that route, I suspect I'm correct. I'm ordering my rams tonight from Agri-Supply. (2-1/2"x10" & 2" x 24") They beat Bailey and Supply Center, plus I got my gearbox from them, and was happy. More to follow. ~"Scotty"