Stump Cutter Teeth

[PowerTracManiac]

Getting my stump grinder ready for operation. Most of the carbide inserts on the teeth are missing.

Wondering how people are getting these brazed on carbide insert tips replaced?

Most teeth on new stump grinders are held in by bolted on carriers and are user replaceable. Has anyone retrofitted the grinder wheel itself with some user replaceable style Greenteeth?

Also, I can't get the nut off to remove the darn blade itself. Does anyone know if it is reverse threaded like on some old car lug nuts? Yes, I pulled the cotter pin.

 

[5030]

Chances are it's threaded opposite the rotation of the wheel...

Far as Green Teeth are concerned, Green Manufacturing offers replacement wheels (blades) for many stump grinders, you need to visit their website and / or call them (phone number is listed on their website) and talk to them.

I do know that retrofitting green teeth to an existing wheel can be quite involved as the Greenteeth require their proprietary mounts.

 

[Lnk]

Getting my stump grinder ready for operation. Most of the carbide inserts on the teeth are missing.
View attachment 811311
Wondering how people are getting these brazed on carbide insert tips replaced?

Most teeth on new stump grinders are held in by bolted on carriers and are user replaceable. Has anyone retrofitted the grinder wheel itself with some user replaceable style Greenteeth?

Also, I can't get the nut off to remove the darn blade itself. Does anyone know if it is reverse threaded like on some old car lug nuts? Yes, I pulled the cotter pin.
View attachment 811312

Have you considered silver solder. Precision isn't really required and with oxy/acetylene shouldn't take too long, provided you have the carbide teeth.

 

[Lnk]

Getting my stump grinder ready for operation. Most of the carbide inserts on the teeth are missing.
View attachment 811311
Wondering how people are getting these brazed on carbide insert tips replaced?

Most teeth on new stump grinders are held in by bolted on carriers and are user replaceable. Has anyone retrofitted the grinder wheel itself with some user replaceable style Greenteeth?

Also, I can't get the nut off to remove the darn blade itself. Does anyone know if it is reverse threaded like on some old car lug nuts? Yes, I pulled the cotter pin.
View attachment 811312

Also, your picture shows a normal right hand thread! So counter clockwise will get it done.

 

[sandman2234]

I agree, by increasing the size of the image, giving you a larger picture, it appears to be normal right hand threads.
David from jax

 

[ponytug]

Getting my stump grinder ready for operation. Most of the carbide inserts on the teeth are missing.
View attachment 811311
Wondering how people are getting these brazed on carbide insert tips replaced?

Most teeth on new stump grinders are held in by bolted on carriers and are user replaceable. Has anyone retrofitted the grinder wheel itself with some user replaceable style Greenteeth?

Also, I can't get the nut off to remove the darn blade itself. Does anyone know if it is reverse threaded like on some old car lug nuts? Yes, I pulled the cotter pin.
View attachment 811312

A little Powerblaster and then a blow torch is your friend on this one. So is a big impact wrench.

All the best, Peter

 

[PowerTracManiac]

TU for the assistance. It is regular lefty, loosie thread for those tackling this in the future.
Have been PB blasting and trying for a few days.
Got more aggressive today. Bought a larger wrench and got the nut off. Dont have a torch yet.

But it's only a partial win. The blade is on a shaft with a keyway and it looks like it might be a tapered shaft. Beating on the blade sides with a 5 pound hammer and the blade itself won't come off the shaft. Taking a break from it.
Looks like more PB and a BFH will be up next.......

 

[RjCorazza]

I have a monster wrench like that also.
Something to consider in getting the disk off the shaft is in addition to the PB Blaster, lightly tap around the entire circumference of the blade (many times around). I had a stubborn brake disk that I POUNDED on without success. Spent maybe 15 minutes gently tapping around the edges, and the thing suddenly just fell off.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I made my own stump grinder. I took my dimensions to the local machine shop and they cut me a wheel that had all the teeth bolt holes in the right spot. Cost was minimal.

 

[PowerTracManiac]

I made my own stump grinder. I took my dimensions to the local machine shop and they cut me a wheel that had all the teeth bolt holes in the right spot. Cost was minimal.

Always impressed with your creativity and skills, woodland!

I am with you and I believe all the stump grinder wheels from PT should come with user serviceable replaceable teeth like you have created for yourself. Every other stump grinder has user replaceable teeth of some sort. Will head in that direction when I figure out how to get this junk grinder disc off the hydraulic motor shaft.

I was really irked yesterday when I couldn't get the grinder disc wheel off the motor shaft.
I realize now that I am effectively pounding sideways on the hydraulic motor shaft to try get the grinder disc wheel off the motor shaft.
In the past, I have used a disc puller device to do this sort of removal. The puller attaches to the disk and the nose of the puller pushes against the nose of the shaft (thereby placing the release stress on the disc and the shaft nose) to separate the two parts. This disc puller device method doesn't place stress on the motor shaft retaining connection (whatever that may be?) inside the hydraulic motor itself.
Beating sideways on the grinder disc with a BFH will possibly damage the internal hydraulic motor shaft retainer before the grinder disc releases from the motor shaft itself?

There are no provisions for a disc puller to release the grinder disc from the motor shaft engineered into the grinder disc itself---very weak engineering sauce PT!
The stupid teeth are welded onto the freakn disc so it's not user serviceable by a regular joe in any manner whatsoever. If I could replace the teeth, I wouldn't have to take the disc off---double weak sauce PT!
Not happy right now.

 

[two_bit_score]

Looks like more PB and a BFH will be up next......

Good luck!

 

[ruffdog]

Silver solder is used to attach cemented carbide inserts to the base wheel. It is a easy job for the right shop. Some heat around the wheel near the hub will help expand the wheel. Even a propane torch may help. Also, what I have done in the past is drill and tap 2 or 3 holes that match one of my pullers. Something like that I would tap for 1/2" and the puller will push directly on the shaft.

 

[Lnk]

With the nut off, try grinding a stump to see if it frees up.

 

[ponytug]

You might try a hydraulic jack on the axle, and chains behind the wheel, although I think PB, a little heat on the disk at the axle, and some judicious rim tapping would be my first choice.

I do think that replaceable teeth from the factory would be great, but that makes things pricier several ways. Unless you go through teeth quickly, I would make myself a jig and then silver solder new carbide inserts in. It is a quick job. If you have gone through your teeth quickly, a decent machine shop should be able to fabricate a new disk drilled for replaceable teeth pretty easily, or you could buy it from an online fabricator, as only the center axle hole needs to be cut with precision. The rest could be plasma or water jet cut. My recollection is that the Vermeer type grinding disks are thicker, and my guess that is to accommodate the greater centrifugal force on the disk from the larger, heavier, replacement teeth.

All the best,

Peter

 

[SpringHollow]

My recollection is that PT now supplies them with removable teeth.

Ken

 

[ponytug]

Oh, one more thing; when you put it back together, a little never-seize on the cleaned axle/disk goes a long way...

 

[5030]

silver Solder won't hold carbide teeth. Must be HT brazed on.

 

[Lnk]

silver Solder won't hold carbide teeth. Must be HT brazed on.

Silver brazing is the correct term, higher silver content and more nickle. It does require higher temps but is still considered silver soldering. Just make sure you clean off all the oxide that builds on the carbide. Diamond stone for the win.

 

[5030]

If it was me, I'd just contact Green Manufacturing and get a new wheel from them that mounts Greenteeth and be done with it. I really like the 900 series Wearsharp carbide teeth myself. One thing about them is there is no brazing or anything else. The bolt on and you actually can rotate them to 3 different positions as the carbide wears. Ground over 30 stumps with mine and they show no wear yet and I believe they offer a sharpening service as well.

 

[PowerTracManiac]

Reached the limit of my capabilities. Terry at PT told me to get a chisel in the gap and I put a bottle jack on the end with a chain per ponytugs excellent sugesstion. Disc still not off.
I asked Terry if there was an additional retainer of some sort that I was missing and he didn't think so. Apparently, there have been several iterations of the stump grinder.
I think the only additional thing I could do would be to heat this disc up. I assume you would need a big torch to have any effect on this disc. I don't have a big torch and I don't have any more time to fool with this junk.