Storing tractor for couple of months

[Charlton John]

Hello All (Happy Thanksgiving) Sadley I beleive I am about done w/ the tractor for the season. I dont plow with it yet and by the time I get home every night its pitch dark and my next few weekends are booked. I am at 45 hrs. on my new B2620. My dealer has a winter special from Nov. through Feb. free pick up and delivery and 10% off parts, so I plan on having the 50 hr. service done sometime before then probably around mid Feb.

What things should I do to the tractor from now till mid Feb. to keep it in its best possible condition? It is stored in a barn. I beleive I should remove the battery for a while and stabalize the fuel, anything else? As mentioned I dont want to do to much as I will be getting a complete full service at the time of service. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[kennyd]

I think removing the battery to a warm area and treating the fuel will be sufficient for a couple months. If it's damp a light coat of grease on all exposed cylinder rods will prevent rusting.

Be sure to run the tractor after the fuel treatment so the treated fuel gets inside the injector pump.

 

[RickB]

Add a good fuel conditioner, run the tractor enough to get conditioned fuel into the pump and lines. Top off the fuel tank to prevent condensation. Remove the battery to a warmer location. That's as much as I would do. Realistically, it would probably be fine without any or all of that.

 

[john_bud]

I would charge the battery in place and leave it in. Block the clutch peddle down (there may be a hook). If you don't, it can rust to the flywheel and stick. Add fuel stabilizer and a large dose of anti-gel. I use Howes Diesel Treat. Put about 2x the label dose. Extra won't hurt, but will help clean the injectors. You may need to pull a car out of the ditch or ? Change the oil so any moisture in there won't freeze or form acids. Fill the tires with air to 5 psi over so any loss won't result in a flat. Check the anti-freeze condition. Add a can of anti-freeze conditioner / water pump lube. Blow off all the dust / leaves / plant matter. Put some mouse baits around in the barn to kill off the wire munchers.

jb

 

[RalphVa]

You could just leave it in place and put a battery tender on the battery. I just bought one for my generator battery. Tried starting it once/month. Wouldn't keep battery up. Then tried running a trickle charger off a timer set to run about 1-1.5 hr/day. Worked until it got cold.

On my 1973 Benz that I had our first time to Singapore, I removed its battery and took it to the basement where I connected it in series through 2 timers. The sequence was such that it run a trickle charger about 1 hour or so about every 3 or 4 days.

Came back after 9 months, put the battery into the car, ran the glow plugs, and it started instantly as though I'd shut it down yesterday. Didn't do anything for the fuel.

Stored another (present 1983) Benz for 4 1/2 years while in Singapore again. The battery was dead when I got back, as were the seals on the AC compressor. They were supposedly starting it up once/month at the storage place. Doubt that happened. I'd topped off the tank before leaving. It was still full, but the diesel had turned a light tan. With a new battery, the engine started fairly well (not instantly as it did before and still does now). The clutch needed a few strokes to work. Later on, I noticed some constant speed pinging on the engine. Put some Chevron Techron into the tank to fix that. Later on, the ball joints got creaky (dried out), clutch cylinder under the dash leaked, and one valve burned out on the engine. After fixing these (and didn't generally show up for a year or two after), the car was back like new again and still is like new today.

Ralph

 

[Builder]

I would charge the battery in place and leave it in. Block the clutch peddle down (there may be a hook). If you don't, it can rust to the flywheel and stick. Add fuel stabilizer and a large dose of anti-gel. I use Howes Diesel Treat. Put about 2x the label dose. Extra won't hurt, but will help clean the injectors. You may need to pull a car out of the ditch or ? Change the oil so any moisture in there won't freeze or form acids. Fill the tires with air to 5 psi over so any loss won't result in a flat. Check the anti-freeze condition. Add a can of anti-freeze conditioner / water pump lube. Blow off all the dust / leaves / plant matter. Put some mouse baits around in the barn to kill off the wire munchers.

jb

JB nailed it as usual and I agree. I'm no tractor exspurt, but why pull the battery? What if you need it in a pinch? I can offer that I use my equipment almost everyday because I make a living with it. I put a solar charger in my cab when my rig's on the jobsite.

Might want to look into a trickle charger or tender when you don't use it for a few days or more.

I also swear by Howes diesel treatment. I buy it at my local big truck shop for my backhoe & dumptruck. I just added some to my new Challenger and it instantly ran smoother on the next start-up. It is not a snake oil. Try some.

 

[smfcpacfp]

I use my tractor all year but my Corvette sits for 5 months. First I run it and get it up to normal operating temperature to get rid of all of the sulfuric acid in the crankcase and mufflers. I use a battery tender. I also put a stabilizer in the fuel normally.

I cover it and never start it again until I am ready to use. I have heard people say to start your vehicle monthly, but that is a bad idea unless you are going to bring it up to normal temperature, becuase of the sulfuric acid that builds up in a cold gasoline engine. I don't know about diesels.

 

[RickB]

JB nailed it as usual and I agree. I'm no tractor exspurt, but why pull the battery? What if you need it in a pinch? I can offer that I use my equipment almost everyday because I make a living with it. I put a solar charger in my cab when my rig's on the jobsite.

Might want to look into a trickle charger or tender when you don't use it for a few days or more.

I also swear by Howes diesel treatment. I buy it at my local big truck shop for my backhoe & dumptruck. I just added some to my new Challenger and it instantly ran smoother on the next start-up. It is not a snake oil. Try some.

My answer is based on the info provided by the O.P. If he says he doesn't plan to use the tractor for a few months, I recommend removing the battery to a warm location. No unnecessary use of electricity from charging a perfectly fine, fully charged battery. Any battery charger is a potential fire hazard, just like any live power cord in an unoccupied quiet space where rodents can move in. Installing the battery in unforseen circumstances doesn't take much time or effort.

 

[Builder]

My answer is based on the info provided by the O.P. If he says he doesn't plan to use the tractor for a few months, I recommend removing the battery to a warm location. No unnecessary use of electricity from charging a perfectly fine, fully charged battery. Any battery charger is a potential fire hazard, just like any live power cord in an unoccupied quiet space where rodents can move in. Installing the battery in unforseen circumstances doesn't take much time or effort.

If a solar charger is used, solar power is free. I guess I was thinking more from a convenience standpoint if he ever needs his tractor he doesn't have to re-mount the battery. I have also seen my share of accidents when removing & reinstalling batteries.

I don't think your idea is bad, I guess I just look at it differently. I like be able to get the tractor started right away, but I need them for work almost every day.

 

[RickB]

If a solar charger is used, solar power is free. I guess I was thinking more from a convenience standpoint if he ever needs his tractor he doesn't have to re-mount the battery. I have also seen my share of accidents when removing & reinstalling batteries.

I don't think your idea is bad, I guess I just look at it differently. I like be able to get the tractor started right away, but I need them for work almost every day.

Hey, you asked why I preferred to remove the battery, I responded. We don't have to agree. It's all good. I don't remove the batteries from the two I use in winter; just the two I don't.

 

[crbr]

Hello All (Happy Thanksgiving) Sadley I beleive I am about done w/ the tractor for the season. I dont plow with it yet and by the time I get home every night its pitch dark and my next few weekends are booked. I am at 45 hrs. on my new B2620. My dealer has a winter special from Nov. through Feb. free pick up and delivery and 10% off parts, so I plan on having the 50 hr. service done sometime before then probably around mid Feb.

What things should I do to the tractor from now till mid Feb. to keep it in its best possible condition? It is stored in a barn. I beleive I should remove the battery for a while and stabalize the fuel, anything else? As mentioned I dont want to do to much as I will be getting a complete full service at the time of service. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

BatteryTender. Done deal.

Battery Tender Plus 12 Volt 1.25 Amp Battery Charger: BatteryMart.com

(Buy the 25' extension while you're at it)

I have 7 of them in my garage and this is the best peace of mind that $45 can buy. I use them year-round.

Constant trickles and warm storage are a myth for battery life, although better than cold and nothing at all (battery depletion).

 

[RalphVa]

That looks exactly like the one I bought locally at our oldest battery place in town. About the same price. It's in operation now on the battery serving my generator.

Ralph

 

[john_bud]

I know some like to remove the batteries from in storage vehicles -> unless the store time is 12 months or more, I feel it is best to leave the battery in the vehicle.

If there is no drain from a short, the battery will hold the charge and won't mind the cold weather. Batteries are affected by freezing when they are drained flat. They are much more affected by heat. If you want to save your battery the effort cost vs benefit would be greater to remove batteries from cars in the summer and store them in a cool location.

But, as with every question, there is not just one perfect answer. In or out, as long as it's charged, it is ok. By the way, my tractors typically don't get touched from October thru May. Once in a while, I will use an FEL to pile snow for the kids snow hill. They have always started, even at -20 to -30F. The Kubota has a 9 year old battery and it still kicks it over fine. Just charged in place (by operation or charger) in the fall and do as outlined above.

But, that's just what I do. YMMV

jb

 

[jmfox]

Put a float charger on the battery like this one from Harbor Freight.

jmf

 

[kennyd]

Put a float charger on the battery like this one from Harbor Freight.

jmf

My neighbor bought the Horrible Freight one for his genny, and the battery was cooked dry in a month...he replaced it with a Battery Tender. There is a reason they are $6.99 and the BT's are $40.00.

 

[Builder]

Hey, you asked why I preferred to remove the battery, I responded. We don't have to agree. It's all good. I don't remove the batteries from the two I use in winter; just the two I don't.

There ya go.

 

[flusher]

Hello All (Happy Thanksgiving) Sadley I beleive I am about done w/ the tractor for the season. I dont plow with it yet and by the time I get home every night its pitch dark and my next few weekends are booked. I am at 45 hrs. on my new B2620. My dealer has a winter special from Nov. through Feb. free pick up and delivery and 10% off parts, so I plan on having the 50 hr. service done sometime before then probably around mid Feb.

What things should I do to the tractor from now till mid Feb. to keep it in its best possible condition? It is stored in a barn. I beleive I should remove the battery for a while and stabalize the fuel, anything else? As mentioned I dont want to do to much as I will be getting a complete full service at the time of service. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Stabilize the fuel. If the rears have drum brakes, put chocks under the wheels and release the parking brake. I once forgot to do that on a pickup I owned, let it set in freezing weather for 6 weeks with the parking brake set and got a warped drum. I'd just charge the battery with the engine and keep it in the tractor.

 

[Boulter]

hi:

I always ruin my batteries. The ones I left alone, the charge drains away and then freezing gets them. The ones I leave on a trickle charger, they get more charge than needed, so all the water goes off. On a 1.8 watt solar panel on the dash, same a trickle charger.

What is needed is a charger that shuts off when the battery voltage hits the full charge level. It also must be temperature compensated, otherwise will work in the summer, but still fry the battery due to over charging in the winter.

This has been my experience. Is my understanding of the situation accurate? Does this battery tender product do what I have suggested is required of a long term battery maintenance product, or will it just fry batteries too?

I don't have time to babysit batteries, I'd sure like to find a reliable unattended solution.

Boulter

 

[john_bud]

hi:

I always ruin my batteries. The ones I left alone, the charge drains away and then freezing gets them. The ones I leave on a trickle charger, they get more charge than needed, so all the water goes off. On a 1.8 watt solar panel on the dash, same a trickle charger.

What is needed is a charger that shuts off when the battery voltage hits the full charge level. It also must be temperature compensated, otherwise will work in the summer, but still fry the battery due to over charging in the winter.

This has been my experience. Is my understanding of the situation accurate? Does this battery tender product do what I have suggested is required of a long term battery maintenance product, or will it just fry batteries too?

I don't have time to babysit batteries, I'd sure like to find a reliable unattended solution.

Boulter

Buy a cable end battery disconnect switch and use it on the ground side. Battery can't go flat if you disconnect it. Then when you have time, locate and correct the short that is draining the battery.

jb

 

[JMER817]

I used to do a lot of the things mentioned when storing my equipment for a few months. I found over the years that if I just go fire everything up a couple times during this period (days when it unseasonably warm)and let it warm up to normal operating temperatures I had no problems. My dad never did any prep work and he used an old 600 Ford and Farmall cub for 40yrs with no problems. I think all this bull about battery chargers and fuel additives are just a bunch of marketing ploys.