Stihl MS310 - Operation Issues

Beltzington · Sep 9, 2011

I have been using an Echo 14" chainsaw for the last 25+ years and it has rarely let me down. Using Oregon S52 chains it has cut allot of wood and is very easy to handle. Recently I have started cleaning up some property and due to having much larger trees to deal with I bought a Stihl MS310 with a 20-inch blade. Last weekend while cutting some brush I dulled my last Echo blade and although the remaining trees were not that big all I had was the Stihl. Compared to my much smaller Echo this saw is an animal, sounds like some dirt bikes I used to race.
Armed with a brand new Still blade I approached my first 12" tree with a big smile on my mug and the saw cut like crap. What the heck, I know the blade is thicker but the Stihl is a much heavier saw and significant more powerful. Undercuts were much more work than they should have been. It seemed if I held my mouth just right and at some magic speed the chain would bite and cut through limbs as I would expect.
Assume I am not operating the saw correctly, typically with the Echo I run it wide open and rock it a bit. What is the trick with a bigger saw? TIA

LD1 · Sep 9, 2011

There is no trick. You have got something wrong with the chain.

Dull? Rakers need lowered? On backwards?

Did you buy this saw NEW form a DEALER? Or was it bought used off of someone else?

Can you take some pics of the bar and chain? And perhaps spend $20 to buy a new chain and try that?

art · Sep 9, 2011

I'd say you have chain issues! I'd hope that a stihl chain came with the saw as oregon's chains don't keep an edge very long on stihl chain saws.

Beltzington · Sep 9, 2011

Thanks for your advice - Bought this saw used but in excellent condition and then broke it down and cleaned it up, it starts and runs great. Originally when I noticed the poor performance I thought it was the blade so I changed it out with a brand new Stihl chain. I had not tried it with the new blade until last week.

Since I have never used this large of saw maybe I am expecting too much performance gains over my little Echo. Once the blade hooks up it cuts very well, it just seems the blade spins on top of the wood before really starting to cut. My thought was maybe I should be exerting more downward pressure to take advantage of the more powerful saw and wider cutting chain. The smaller Echo just bogs down when pushed so I have just gotten into the habit of letting the weight of the saw do the work.

JakeBrake · Sep 9, 2011

I have a Stihl MS310 with a 20" bar. I will have to agree with the other posters that it sounds like you have a chain problem.

art · Sep 9, 2011

Is it the stihl safety chain? What type of wood are you cutting?

Beltzington · Sep 10, 2011

Not sure, it is a - Stihl Oilomatic 33 RSC 72. Cutting live (green) trees like dogwood and poplar.

As I have mentioned before, it was a brand new, never used chainsaw blade. Probably just need to get familar with this saws quirks, but I have to say for all the noise it makes I was expecting better cutting performance.

LD1 · Sep 10, 2011

I believe the 33rsc is full chisel chain.

You shouldnt be having any trouble with it, because more than likely, you have round-back or semi-round on your other saw.

The saw should pull itself right through.

Let me ask you this, are you the one that sharpens your other chain?

Perhaps a few pics of it so we can figure out why you think it is a more agressive chain? Because it dont get any more agressive than RSC full chisel.

An I try to refrain from telling a new sawer this, but IMO, the rakers arent low enough even on a new chain. They are supposed to be .025", But I typically run double that at the least. It allows the saw to pull through better and cut faster for my style of cutting.

Perhaps you could post some close-up pics of your old chain cutters as well as the new ones? Otherwise, there isnt much advise we can offer you.

JakeBrake · Sep 10, 2011

Beltzington said:
Not sure, it is a - Stihl Oilomatic 33 RSC 72. Cutting live (green) trees like dogwood and poplar.

As I have mentioned before, it was a brand new, never used chainsaw blade. Probably just need to get familar with this saws quirks, but I have to say for all the noise it makes I was expecting better cutting performance.

I don't know. That's the same chain that came on my MS310 that I bought new from a Stihl dealer. My MS310 is a hoss. If I were having the problems you describe, I would return to the dealer. My dealer keeps a couple of large logs for testing saws. I would at least get his second opinion.

Beltzington · Sep 11, 2011

Don't know for sure what is going on but I am more convinced my observations are strongly influenced by the way I am operating the saw.

Yesterday used the Stihl 310 on a 30' old fallen 10-12" tree trunk which might have been white oak. Regardless, it was very solid heavy wood and the Stihl went right through it. This was the first good chunk of laying wood I have cut with this saw compared to the vertical live trees or smaller green branches.

Anyone who has used a chainsaw allot knows there is some finesse involved making a good clean cut. Having used a 7lb saw for 25 years is allot different than using a 14lb one and my best guess with the Stihl is I am not keeping the chain in good contact with the wood. Basically Operator Error.

LD many years ago I did sharpen my own chains or have them sharpened but with the amount of cutting I do it was easier for me just to buy a new chain. I am sure if I made my living with a saw this would not be the case.

Thanks for everyone's feedback!

art · Sep 12, 2011

I have seen many people that there initial trials with the chain saws were in wood not capable of taxing the saw. They were also disapointed till getting into large wood.

5030 · Sep 12, 2011

art said:
I have seen many people that there initial trials with the chain saws were in wood not capable of taxing the saw. They were also disapointed till getting into large wood.

In my younger days I had large wood but it's now a twig......

I believe the dude's chain is improperly sharpened or the rakers need lowered or both. Chain filing, like sharpening a twist drill is a mastered art and there are a whole bunch of shoemakers out there to a few good sharpening hands.

You can wack a perfectly good loop with just a couple poor strokes of the chain file. People 'think' they know what they are doing when, in fact, they just butchered a fine loop. Happens everyday. That's what the dealer grinds chains with a jig grinder, because shoemakers bugger the loops to the point where large amounts of tooth have to be removed to reset the cutter angle and gullet.

I have a 310 and an 028 with 404 chipper chain that wails through anything

gengine · Sep 12, 2011

art said:
I have seen many people that there initial trials with the chain saws were in wood not capable of taxing the saw. They were also disapointed till getting into large wood.

I second that. You buy a bigger saw with a bigger bar, but it won't cut any faster. It still cuts just as fast as the old saw. Until you get into bigger and more hard wood, you don't notice a difference. You gotta get into a spot where your old saw will be bogged down if not choked out completely, and the new, more powerful saw will plow on through. However, I also agree that "factory" rakes are still too tall for me, gotta file them down a little even on a brand new chain.

turnkey4099 · Sep 12, 2011

I didnt' see it mentioned so:

1. With a sharp chain you should _never_ need to put any pressure on the saw, it should pull itself right on through.

2. If you need to put pressure on, your chain needs sharpening.

3. Please, please say "bar", not blade

.

Harry K

RobertN · Sep 12, 2011

You talking about me???

I thought I was pretty good with a basic file and guide.... I thought my saws were cutting well. I always tried to keep the bar/chain out of the dirt ect. Also never let them get dull.

I got one of the Oregon clamp on jigs.OREGON brand products, chain saw chain and guide bars, accessories, and mower blades for homeowners

I found, that I was sharpening one side of the chain different from the other. One side had the correct angle, the other was off a bit... Huge immediate difference.

It only takes a short time to clamp the guide on and go over a chain on a 24" bar. Again, I try not to let the chains get dull, and lose temper. So most of the time it is just quick touchups. That includes checking/touching up the rakers.

5030 said:
You can wack a perfectly good loop with just a couple poor strokes of the chain file. People 'think' they know what they are doing when, in fact, they just butchered a fine loop. Happens everyday. That's what the dealer grinds chains with a jig grinder, because shoemakers bugger the loops to the point where large amounts of tooth have to be removed to reset the cutter angle and gullet.

I have a 310 and an 028 with 404 chipper chain that wails through anything

gengine · Nov 2, 2024

If the saw runs fine at idle, and starts easy, the low end is good on the carburetor setting. When full throttle it should blubber a bit (run rich) so when you are hogging into wood it has the fuel it needs. I feel Carb adjustments are your issue, or your rakers are too tall. Carb adjustment first, and if that doesn't satisfy you, take a single swipe of your rakers to see if that helps, two swipes if necessary, but you can easily go too far.