Stihl Chain Saws

Docsknotinn · Oct 4, 2004

Chains don't just "pop" off for no reason. You actually have to adjust them ! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Mine comes off occasionally. Like every time I forget to adjust it. Some saws need to be rechecked after warn up. I find this more prevalent with the Oregon chain and full chisel chains. It is easy to not get it on square especially if their is saw dust or dirt on the mount. As far as other brands I always thought there was only one saw......STIHL ! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

slowzuki · Oct 4, 2004

A lot of guys leave chains too loose if they are used to hardnose bars. Read your manual to see the proper tension.

For guys leaving gas in their saws, 2 stoke mix should be a month old max. After that the oil starts doing funny things and you can damage your equipment.

I have a Stihl MS260 and love the thing but had to get a normal air filter as the dealer had fitted the dusty enviroment filter from a concrete saw. With this dusty condition filter on the saw wouldn't run worth 2 cents.

Edit:
Also, are you following the proper starting method? Full choke, pull until it starts and dies, move to half choke/high idle then pull. It starts then blip the throttle to trip it to normal idle.

Mine goes on first pull, switch to half then pull and blip and it runs. When warm it just pulls once and goes.

Docsknotinn · Oct 4, 2004

I have seen people clean the saw but fail to clean the track in the bar. I've seen chain cut with too many links etc. I check the chain at least every tankfull of gas and more often with new chain, even re-sharpened chain that I am switching out I check more often for tension. If the chain comes off there is far more likely than not a mechanical reason for it. I am often suprised how some chains need to be adjusted as many as three times and others are good to go. Sometimes it just takes a while to figure out the problem.

SPIKER · Oct 4, 2004

so far lots of agreement:

I own 2 pullans for throwaway cutting. (bought one to cut rail road ties the other was a K-Mart close out for 50.00) 129 and 50 for the 18" and the 14" respectvely. now they both start & rn well for CHEAP saws. I'm looking for a good STIHL or HUSKY too in the 20~24" range. BUT the pulans start usually in 2 puls or less, I do keep them clean and use cheap gas and the pulan oil with the wal-mart pullan gallon bar oil. I have jumped chains from binding or miss-use but they are working quite well...

One thing that can toss a chain is lack of oil lube on it. make sure you get enough and good oil on the chain to keep it cool when cutting... adjustment is also needed for NEW chains after first few runs to keep it just so... over tighteneing them is worse than too loose as it will wear EVERYTHING when over tight and can't get oil into chain... i've been in industrial maintenance for years & years. and seen people overtighten chains constantly. (not just chain saws but anything with a roller type chain needs some looseness to it or else it will wear it's self out much faster.)

anyhow one day I'll bring myself to sepnd that 350~600 for a GOOD saw but intill then my elcheapo saws work just fine for cutting 4~8 cord a year as well as the occasional rail road tie! :0

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Prefect · Oct 4, 2004

In my experience, the Stihl and the Husky are on the same level. I have had both and currently have a Husky as my primary cutter. I have also had great success with Johensered. It's a sweedish saw and a work horse like you wouldn't believe. Problem is, while there were a couple of places close that provided excelent service and part for the Johensered (as well as Stihl and Husky), they are both closed and I have no place to get service on it.

The Stihl is a fine saw. There is the possibility that just like anything, you may have gotten one which has issues. It's a gamble any time you buy any consumer product. It's just a matter of how well the dealer stands behind you. Your Stihl dealer should be able to help you out with the chain throwing/starting/running problem. They, like Husky, are top notch.

Good Luck.

bczoom · Oct 4, 2004

Personally, I'd say Husky and Stihl are real close. For me, the biggest thing was going with the professional series instead of the residential series. Pound-for-pound, there's no comparison in performance.

For mine, they're both Husqvarna professional series (a 338XTP for small stuff and a 365XP for the big stuff). I only went with the Husky over Stihl because I found I got better pricing for the same size saw.
If I recall correctly, Husqvarna and Jonsered merged a few years back.

1bush2hog · Oct 4, 2004

I currently own 3, an 009, ms250, and 036 pro. Mine start easy, run great, and I would not be without them. I keep mine maintained, chains sharp, extra plugs, etc. and work them hard.

I used the 250 and 036 this past weekend Fri, Sat and Sun to try to clean up some of the mess Ivan caused on my property in NC mountains.

There is a proper method to start a saw and sharpen a saw, just as there is to using it.

Maybe you have a lemon. Take it back to your dealer. If you don't get satisfaction from them, call or email Stihl direct. I did this on a piece of plastic that boke off on my ms250. The dealer wanted to charge me for it and Stihl ended up sending to me direct at no charge.

This is another reason why I am a still a Stihl user, but I do have a new dealer now /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Richard · Oct 4, 2004

I have a Husky 55 6 years and going strong.

I have a Stihl 044 for 4 years. I once was working in the field and set it down. (working with backhoe).

I was backing up and long story short, took the rear wheel right over the 044.

1 bar, 1 handle and 1 pull start assembly later, it fired right up and is no worse the wear.

Oh, btw, I rolled over it with a full sized, roughly 16,000 lb loader/backhoe again, with the REAR tire & full weight of backhoe. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Markey · Jun 18, 2008

Could someone please settle this once and for all! Regarding my Stihl chainsaw, is it best to run out the gas until it dies at the end of the season for storage or should I add Stabil to the fuel and circulate that in the system prior to storage and leave the Stabilized gas in the tank.? One avenue of thought I have heard, is that it is bad for the system to run all gas out due to possible drying out of rubber parts, carb. parts, etc. On the other hand, keeping Stabilized fuel in the system may still gunk up the system. What is best?

On another Stihl 036 Pro, it would not start at beginning of season. Worked fine in prior year. Dealer looked at piston through exhaust side and said it is scored. Would mild scoring cause saw not to start? I was hoping it only needed a carb. rebuild. Please advise. Thank you.

What would cause bearing seal to go bad enabling lean mixture to score piston? I have always used 50:1 mix.

N80 · Jun 18, 2008

My father has a Stihl. I don't like it. It's heavy, finicky to start. Bulky. Performance is good, I guess, but not to the point I spend heavy money over another brand.

But I use a chainsaw maybe once a month and not for extended times or for heavy duty applications. And I guess that if you want power and durability there is going to be a cost in size and bulk.

So I run, and will continue to run, a 16" Homelite that is over 17 years old. I'm certain most would consider it a piece of junk. But, it has a new Oregon bar and chain, starts instantly, runs great and I can tear it down and put it back together in no time. I imagine its a little underpowered but it does everything I need. When performance falls off it always means the chain is dull and 10 minutes with a chain file remedies that.

My point in all this is that if you are a casual light duty user, you may not need to spend the money for a Husky or a Stihl. Of course, it may be a trick to get a decent low priced machine these days. I don't know.

(I've used a Husky once or twice too. Also felt heavy and bulky to me.)