Stihl chain saw with malfunctioning brake

[PineRidge]

Check out the rest of the mechanism in there and the sprocket on the clutch while you have it apart. Get all done at once.

Clutch sprocket looked good as did all the rest of the brake mechanism. The one thing I did question is the needle bearing between the clutch shaft and drive sprocket bell was bone dry. I'm assuming here that just a little grease on the bearing is better than none at all.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Yeah you would think bone dry is not so good. Bar oil wouldn't be able to work it's way into there either. Too much grease could get caked up with crud as well.

 

[Fifelaker]

A little grease is good. That only spins at an idle.

 

[Doloe]

With the brake off, lift the brake band assembly out of the case. Install spring and put the brake band back in.

 

[PineRidge]

With the brake off, lift the brake band assembly out of the case. Install spring and put the brake band back in.

I'll give that a try once the spring arrives, thanks.

 

[RobertN]

I've always been a fan of the 024/026/260. Nice well balanced saws

 

[PineRidge]

It's one of the easiest starting chainsaws I have ever used, and I have worn out a few x-brand models before stepping up to Stihl.

 

[Doloe]

With the brake off, lift the brake band assembly out of the case. Install spring and put the brake band back in.

Opps. Disregard that advice. I just put my 260 back together. The brake band doesn't tension that spring.
Looks like some vice grips and muscle are the answer.