Steiner steering pivot removal question

[nightskyisme]

Hello everybody, I recently obtained an s20 Steiner 4 wheel drive diesel tractor with 125 hours on it, not sure what year it is but I believe it's early 80s, I was also able to grab pretty much every attachment that goes with it, a couple of push blades, big heavy duty snow blower, ballast box, a front mower, Etc, I am going through it to more than likely sell it, and although it's in very good condition, the only issue I see is the steering joint, or tie rod as it looks like that connect to the footplate that articulates the tractor is extremely worn out and is in need of replacement, I have the new one but the issue seems to be it looks like it's actually tack welded onto the hydraulic shaft, I have pictures enclosed for anybody to look at, do I take a small cut -off wheel and slice that weld off and will the old unit screw off? I'm hoping I don't have to buy a whole new hydraulic cylinder if it's even available, I have the brand new part I just need to get the old one off and not sure how to do so, any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[stevem5215]

Looks to me like they changed the design and you got the update. It's very possible that they welded them previously and not on the updated asm afterwards. Most likely you'd need the hydraulic cylinder too for the complete update. And even if you cut that weld off then you are probably looking at a shaft without threads I'd guess. A compression fit and welded for security.

 

[johara1]

do you have access to a lathe ? turn it off...... jim

 

[nightskyisme]

Not sure what you mean by an update or the update, no I don't have direct access to a lathe, but I could take it to a machine shop I imagine, I'm thinking of just taking a very fine cut off wheel and grinding off the weld and just seeing if that unscrews, worst case scenario I guess I will do something with a machine shop because I can imagine that replacement ram is extremely expensive and it seems like quite a waste of money to buy a new one just for the sake of a worn end piece. I appreciate your responses.

 

[johara1]

if you part it off on the lathe ahead of the weld you won't have to deal with the penetration fo the weld. Then see fit screws off, if it does turn the rest of the weld off going away from the threads...... I would bet the weld was used in place of a lock nut.... jim

 

[MountainBuck]

I would go at it with a small handheld like a Dremel then perhaps when getting close switching to a sharp chalked up file.

If the old part doesn't screw off, then you might have a different problem.

Please post how it turns out!

 

[johara1]

I would go at it with a small handheld like a Dremel then perhaps when getting close switching to a sharp chalked up file.

If the old part doesn't screw off, then you might have a different problem.

Please post how it turns out!

The problem with that is weld penetration and drag it down through the threads. Parting it off below the weld cuts it off clean to screw often cut weld off going away from the thread..... less chance of trashing the cylinder ..... jim

 

[nightskyisme]

In case anybody had been following along, I ended up using a fine cut off wheel and ground off the weld, then just simply unscrewed the defective tie rod end, and will be replacing it with the new one, not sure why it was even welded in the first place, once it's attached I don't see how it could possibly spin anyway.

 

[johara1]

Why...... no lock nut....... screw the new one on and weld it again, or it will unscrew itself..... make sure you cover the rod when you weld it..... jim