starting problems

[Tractor_Tim]

Over the years I have had discussions with several diesel mechanics of different sizes and types of engines. They have all stated that if you do not have to, do not use ether! Yes some engines are even equipped with ether starting aids (remember these engine manufactureres are in the parts business too) but do not use them unless there is no other alternative.

 

[Junkman]

Lance....... first things first........ did you mean "gas" as in gasoline? If so, then I will assume that you in fact have a gasoline engine. If it was a typo, then follow the information about bleeding the lines as previously posted. Make sure that you only use diesel fuel. If you inadvertently put gasoline into the fuel tank, then you will have to drain it out and refill with the proper fuel.
I noticed from your profile that you live in Wisconsin and I know from experience that Wisconsin is very cold this time of the year. I would suggest that you install the proper weight of engine oil if you haven't done this previously. Also, a cold diesel or gasoline engine is very difficult to start under the best fuel conditions. I would suggest that you install an engine block heater if you don't already have one. Once you have the proper fuels installed, the proper oil weight, and a warm engine block with a strong battery turning the starter, it will run again. In the future, try to keep the fuel tank filled at the beginning of the day and not to run out of fuel.......

 

[Gary_Bates]

This happened to me twice in the summer. Both times, I was able to restart by sequentially loosening the fuel lines at the injector, and cranking the engine until fuel was forced out, then retightening the connector. It sure makes you pay more attention to the fuel level in the tank.

 

[pruntyc]

You may have done it that way Gary. But we told him the way it is suppose to be done. There is a right way of doing things and a wrong way. The wrong way may work or it may not always work. But the right way will always work.

 

[Tractor_Tim]

Gary, what I think that Dick is trying ot say is that in earlier posts that it was discussed how to bleed air from the system as per a method in a manual. What you do is basically crack a line or injector which is something an expierenced mechanic might do looking for a short cut. But the dangers such as not being able to reseal the line or nut of what ever you cracked or when you turn the machine over and forcing fuel out of a "cracked" line it could come out at such intense pressure that the diesel fuel could penetrate your skin or a bystanders skin and this is very dangerous as your body will have a very difficult time expelling diesel fuel out of your blood system. Thus "poisoning" your body. ALWAYS BE CAREFUL!

 

[gbirky]

I'm not familiar with Iseki's, but I have 3 Yanmars, all of which I have had to start from a dry tank. Two for engine work, and all three from running the tank dry. They were all very easy to re-start after proper use of the bleed screws. In no case did I have to crack open an injection line.

The last time, I was plowing snow with my YM1110D while my 5yr old son was playing in the snow nearby. He called to me, so I idled the tractor back and walked over to him. Before I got back to the tractor, it had run dry and quit. I walked back to the garage, got the 5gal can with the last gallon of diesel I had and a philips head screwdriver. I poured the diesel in, bled the three bleeders in order, turned the key and it fired right up. It was so easy that I don't really worry too much about running out of fuel.

 

[larso1]

There are at least two locations I know of where there are bleed screws on your Iseki model. There are two bleed screws located next to each other on top the fuel filter holder. The other is on the side of the injection pump. It is a hex head screw with a slot for a flat blade screw driver, and is located just below the fuel supply pipe connection that serves the rear fuel injector. There may be another bleed somewhere I don't know of, but open those three for sure. Hope this helps.

Bill in CO

 

[pruntyc]

All you are doing is repeating what has already been said. And it was gone over very well. So what is your post suppose to mean. Like you didn't read the rest of what we had already said????????????????? /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[larso1]

Jeez Dick, lighten up. I was just trying to be helpful. I have a TS1610F and I was just giving some info about the specific locations of the bleed screws, especially the one on the side of the fuel pump.

Bill in CO

 

[DennisArrow]

Gee Dick...........seems that Bill's response on the EXACT fix for the situation was the most right on of all that I read........for a newbie like me to pull the sidecovers and see all of the screws and bolts that could possibly be loosened and thereby inflicting more problems, very specific information submitted by Bill is totally appreciated...........good advice by all except the ether........little tricks, generalities, and specific brand information for the repair specifications are what this is all about.......THANKS Bill...........Dennis