Starting Problem

   / Starting Problem #1  

rhoduss

New member
Joined
Oct 1, 2010
Messages
1
Tractor
Ford 2310
My father has a 1983 Ford 2310 diesel that only has 2000 hours. He had trouble with it starting without moving the gear shifters. The dealer recommended replacing the neutral start switch. After replacement, it started for two weeks. Now it will not even turn over. The warning lights do not illuminate in the gauge cluster either. I tried jumping the terminals on the starter solenoid without success. I checked the switch and wiring for continuity and all are fine. I then began to work both shifters around and boom, it started right up. It starts every time now. Could it be another bad switch or something in shift forks that push the switch in?
 
   / Starting Problem #2  
I'm not sure.
But, if you figure it out, let me know. My 1979 Ford 2600 does the same thing. :confused:
 
   / Starting Problem #3  
I think inactivity is an enemy of tractors. A 1983 model tractor with only 2000 hours is not used much. If it's out in the weather at all, that multiplies the inactivity factor by several times. If you use this tractor daily, it may never fail, but if it sits for several weeks, then you can expect the problem to reappear. That's the only real conclusion I can draw from your description of the problem. If moving the levers got it going, then surely they have something to do with getting stuck switches unstuck. It's impossible to troubleshoot something when it's working, but your description of what it does when it doesn't work seems to make perfect sense for dirty battery terminals to be the issue. That would be the only thing that would stop the tractor from working by jumping the solenoid and at the same time have no dash illumination. I recommend a good terminal cleaning. Inactivity and humid weather are contributing factors in battery terminal corrosion.
 
   / Starting Problem #4  
i'd jump the wires to the NS switch and see if that fixes it. if so, look into having that power line from the NS switch instead run a relay. have that relay then source power from the bat to the solenoid. the relay coil like a 30a 12v foglamp relay likely uses less pull in current than the solenoid.. so a marginal connection thru the NS switch will likely still drive the relay, and that relay will source good power from the bat to drive the solenoid field.

soundguy
 

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