Starter solenoid

[Brady D]

My ford 1910 like many old tractors turns over rather slowly when cranking. So I was wondering if I replaced the solenoid if it would make it any faster or does the whole starter need to be replaced? Also if a solenoid would make a difference what size and type would I need? Thanks for any help.

 

[Hay Dude]

My ford 1910 like many old tractors turns over rather slowly when cranking. So I was wondering if I replaced the solenoid if it would make it any faster or does the whole starter need to be replaced? Also if a solenoid would make a difference what size and type would I need? Thanks for any help.

You sure it’s not just cold weather weakening your battery? It’s unusually cold in TN.
Solenoids stick or fail.

 

[DJ54]

Is the battery the correct size in cold cranking amps..?? I'm seeing 2 listed for it, 750 cca, and 950 cca. Have the battery cables been replaced, if so with correct gauge..?? The experience I've had with a few tractors out of 20 that have a solenoid, seems they either work, or don't work.

 

[eKretz]

There's no easy way to answer that question without you doing the work of pulling the starter out and having a look at it, the solenoid and also the positive and ground wires from the battery and their connection points. All of these are possible points of failure that may cause slow cranking. I just fixed mine on a Ford 555D. On my machine, it had cranked very slowly ever since I got it. I tried removing all the wires and cleaning connection points with no change. Finally it quit cranking altogether.

Had power going into the starter when I turned the key but the starter wasn't doing anything. Pulled the starter and had a look. Someone at some point had replaced an insulating washer at the starter terminal lug with a steel one. So ever since that time, some of the current was going through the starter and some was going through that washer directly to ground.

Eventually, over the years, the heat there got to be more and more and burned out the insulator bushing around the lug, causing it to conduct even more current straight to ground. Finally it gave up the ghost and melted a brass nut, and also the solder that was securing the field winding to the starter lug terminal. I could have just repaired the starter by picking up a new lug terminal and insulators, but I ended up ordering one from Broken Tractor before I fully realized what the problem was. I'll rebuild the old one still and set it on the shelf for a spare. With the new starter the machine cranks like brand new again, very fast.

 

[rScotty]

My ford 1910 like many old tractors turns over rather slowly when cranking. So I was wondering if I replaced the solenoid if it would make it any faster or does the whole starter need to be replaced? Also if a solenoid would make a difference what size and type would I need? Thanks for any help.

It's usually the battery or the battery cable connections to the battery posts. Or in the case of the cable from the negative terminal also clean its connection to the tractor frame.

Any DC voltmeter across the battery will tell you if the battery is good. It should charge to almost 13/14 volts when running or chargeing, and still be above 12.4 volts after sitting a day after it has been run or charged.

Solenoids usually work or not. They don't get weak. If it clicks when you turn the key and the starter begins to crank then it most probably isn NOT the solenoid. Starters do get weak and benefit from new brushes...but that is after thousands of tractor hours. BTW, your OEM starter is worth rebuilding rather than replacing.

But I'm betting it's the battery and/or cables. And I'm betting most other mechanics will agree.
rScotty

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Everyone should have a battery load tester ($25) and a multimeter ($50).
Compare voltage across battery while cranking which should be same at starter.
Measure from battery --negative to starter case...should be 0 zero volts, otherwise bad ground.

 

[Gator6x4]

Auto Zone and a few other places will load test your starter to see if it is failing. Check at the auto parts places at your locale and see if one of them will test the starter. A starter is a starter. The Auto Store will probably not be able to source a starter for you through their normal supply network. But, if the starter tests bad I am sure you could source one at your tractor dealer. You might also want to take your battery along and have it load tested also.

 

[eKretz]

I like this battery load tester a lot better than the modern ones. And while I would agree that cables are a good first place to check, I never make assumptions about what I will find as a problem. Every machine has been through different things. Differing levels of experience and expertise of the guys who have worked on the machines are a major factor in likely problems.

 

[DWD.IN]

I'm not familiar with the 1910's, does the tractor have a charging system? Altenator? After the above recommended checks from the members, check your charging system.

 

[DGF]

As the other guys have mentioned check the battery, it is most often the problem. Batteries need to be checked open circuit and with a load applied. If you can measure the current while loaded and the voltage droop you can calculate the battery's source impedance which is a strong indicator of the battery's condition. When there is a lot of voltage droop the battery is usually shot.

Check all of the wires and connections and clean them. These are also common places for problems to hide. It's not uncommon to find that some time in the past someone has worked on an old machine and they may have even replaced the wires or connectors and they are too small or were a little light to beign with. Ideally they should be #4 or better to minimize the losses in the cables. Oversizing is good.

Lastly the motor itself. One of the killers of a starter motor is a failing battery and/or bad cables/connections. When these are weak they create voltage drops which in turn lead to higher than normal current to flow through the motor. Motors are current driven devices but when there is too much the windings can overheat even if you don't notice. When they do the wire degrades and the insulation begins to break down eventually killing the motor. The first sign can be a slow motor and if true its time to change the motor but, this isn't always the case. Sometimes just cleaning the motor's iternals well and lubricating will bring them back to life. A good tip for cleaning the internal electrical connections is to use a pencil eraser. While you have it open you can inspect the brushes and where they glide for wear. It is an old machine so the brushes may be worn but they can often be replaced.

Or, you could just replace the motor. It is a time verses $ thing. If you have the time crack it open to see what you can do but start with the battery, cables and connections. Replacing the motor should be a last resort.