Starter going bad in Ranger

[clemsonfor]

OK so after getting my replacement starter on my trip to town last night (ill spare you the entertainment involved in the swap out). And getting some correct bolts yesterday to bolt the crossmember back on after grinding the rivits. Welding on a stud to the shock bolt i busted and tightening up the radius arm bushings its starts better than in years and no more popping as i hit the brakes.

When i took the strter in this weekend i had them test it for giggles. Bendix jumped out each time of a half dozen start attempts, drew the correct voltage and "passed" the computer analizer test!!

I told him i will still go ahead and take the new one, im smater than that machine and it is bad.

This new starter turns more rpm's it sounds than the old one and it sounds more powerfull and less "worn" out. BAttery is from Oct 11 when i did a timing belt so thats good and not a problem there.

Oh another question, do i need to measure the thread length on the radius arm to make sure there tightned similar? If there outta wack will they cause misalighnment of the tires?

 

[crazyal]

Can't help with the arms but I thought I would share one of my experiences with Autozone. It was about 8pm when my front brakes decided to start grinding. Turns out that little arm that gives you a warning was damaged. I was passing an Autozone on my way home and I had plans for the next day and really needed my Tundra. The guy behind the counter asks me if I have the long or short brake pads. Turns out the length of the pads varies by 1/8" of an inch. How the **** would I know which ones are on the truck. He then said 98% of buyers get the short pads. Turns out I'm part of the 98%. My other option was to buy both sets and return the incorrect ones.

I wouldn't expect them to know how many holes the starter should have. I wouldn't expect anyone in the reman line to know. If you bring a different starter to the parts store for credit I'm not sure if the guy behind the counter would know the difference. I doubt the guy rebuilding it would know the difference as long as all the rebuild parts are the same. There's just too many different starters out there to know which one fits what.

 

[LD1]

I dont trust parts store machines much either. I had a bad experience with an Advanced auto battery load test.

I had dual batteries in the old dodge. One of them kept dragging down the other. So I unhooked them one at a tie and ran it for a week on just one battery. No problems. Charge the second battery and run on only it. Next day it wont start. Aha, found the bad one. Took to advance with me to get new battery. Just for kicks they tested it. They said there was nothing wrong. I kept the battery because my scrapper guy pays more for bad batteries than the core at these places. Anyway, I didnt notice until I got home and threw that battery up on the bench, but it had about a 4" long crack in the case along the top of the battery:laughing: and was probabally low on water and leaking when it got warm. But it was a sealed type so I couldnt even check that. But the battery was certainly not okay as their tester indicated. Had a big crack and wouldnt hold a charge overnight even with battery cables pulled off.