Stabilizer Bars?

[xtn]

On the other hand, I don't think they're intended for that but simply to prevent normal sway in the course of turns or other minor movement.

I agree. It is better to have a 50 dollar weak link in the system when you hit a tree than it is to break another, more expensive part of the system.

 

[Short Game]

I agree. It is better to have a 50 dollar weak link in the system when you hit a tree than it is to break another, more expensive part of the system.

Then they should make one part of each of them to be a quickly replaceable, sacrificial, part you can buy for fifty cents, not fifty dollars. I think now that I'll be making that a part of the set I'm going design and build to replace the too flimsy stock links. A small grade 8 bolt somewhere might serve.

 

[xtn]

How about leaving the flimsy stock links and just giving them a weak link? On the telescoping type, for example, you might replace the usual pin with something softer.

 

[Short Game]

How about leaving the flimsy stock links and just giving them a weak link? On the telescoping type, for example, you might replace the usual pin with something softer.

I thought of that too. I don't know, they just seem too flimsy to me. They bend. I don't want the main parts to fail, bending and being straightened until they break. If they are too flimsy, the shear bolt would have to be really weak. Granted, if properly adjusted, the links stand up better. But I mow in a virtual pinball machine here (it's a top quality disc golf course). If and when I break one, then I will make my own. I've already bought the stock to make my new ones.

I think that the ideal shear pin would be small and hard. Soft is not good for this, as it works and wears and fails in time due to normal operation. A hard pin better keeps its shape and fails due to exceeding its shear force. We want its failure to be triggered at a threshold just below that which would damage the link.

 

[xtn]

I thought of that too. I don't know, they just seem too flimsy to me. They bend. I don't want the main parts to fail, bending and being straightened until they break. If they are too flimsy, the shear bolt would have to be really weak. Granted, if properly adjusted, the links stand up better. But I mow in a virtual pinball machine here (it's a top quality disc golf course). If and when I break one, then I will make my own. I've already bought the stock to make my new ones.

I think that the ideal shear pin would be small and hard. Soft is not good for this, as it works and wears and fails in time due to normal operation. A hard pin better keeps its shape and fails due to exceeding its shear force. We want its failure to be triggered at a threshold just below that which would damage the link.

Makes sense to me.

xtn

 

[Fitzwaryn]

When the first set of stabilizers broke, my dealer replaced them under warranty. They were easy enough to install but darned if they didn't break too about two weeks later.

I'm clearing a lot of acres and after I dig out the trees and stumps with the stump bucket, the ground is rough and uneven. I had mounted the box blade to start leveling and at one point backed up but even with the hitch fully raised, the corner of the blade grabbed dirt and pushed against one of the stabilizers and broke not only it, but the pin it mounts on under the tractor frame.

I took both of them off and have replaced them with 1/4 inch chain.

I used the three existing mount pins to connect a some 3/8" chain hooks. The pin on the clevis hook that would normally fit through the chain fit nicely into the holes the stabilizers pins used. On the one that was broken I just bolted a length of chain around it and put a hook on that.

Now when I mount an implement, I just hook a length of chain into the hooks, wrap it back a bit then duct tape it to hold it fast.

That way when the mount pulls on the stabilizer chain it's rigid. When it pushes against one of them it relaxes. No more broken stabilizers.

There's a little flex side to side in the hitch since I'm just using the stock chain right now. Going to add a short turn buckle to at least one side to snug it up for a more rigid mount.

So far though I'd had no problems at all with the chain stabilizers. Planning to stay with those form now on.

 

[ismilelots]

I have broken 3 on my LS3135. All 3 at the same point. I hate the design because the bolt end on the link also holds the 3pt lift arms, so when it breaks, the arm drops to the ground, so you can't use the tractor at all without it. You can't buy just that end either (even tho it's an easily removable section of the link) you have to buy the entire assembly. (about $85)