Spray foam didn't stick
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Coyote machine
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1" !? That's not enough to stop the dew point from passing through- drawing warm air to the outside. You need at least 2" minimum of closed cell. Application failed due to their applying the foam to a too cold surface.
Touch-n-foam, Touch-n-Foam insulating sealants - energy savings foam insulation - spray foam insulation and other self applied closed spray foam is readily available to the consumer now for many applications. I just did a bathroom reno for under $1000, and it went perfectly. The price of the foam is cheaper now than it was due to demand AND better product, keeping in mind proper application. Without the right conditions you have nothing.
Some locations require a flame retardant to be applied over the foam.
Touch-n-foam, Touch-n-Foam insulating sealants - energy savings foam insulation - spray foam insulation and other self applied closed spray foam is readily available to the consumer now for many applications. I just did a bathroom reno for under $1000, and it went perfectly. The price of the foam is cheaper now than it was due to demand AND better product, keeping in mind proper application. Without the right conditions you have nothing.
Some locations require a flame retardant to be applied over the foam.
boggen
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have learned lesson with "closed cell" spray foam. if you spray it, when things are to cold. the trapped air/chemicals, come summer.. will expand a huge amount. resulting in very ugly foam, siding coming off, lumber pushed out, etc... it can become a ticking time bomb! it blew out one basement window on me... i had it sprayed in the cold winter... and then cut excess off, after i thought it cured. come spring.. it expanded 3" and completely shattered and blew out a window, sending some still wet spray foam all over the room.
cold air = condenses (gets smaller)
warm air = expands (gets larger)
i am sure there is different chemicals, and heating stuff requirements for putting it on, in the cold. but... if you can wait till spring when things warm up. so much better long term results of the spray foam.
i would be iffy, putting closed cell spray foam in at winter. even just for a temp job. trying to do a metal barn/shed. were surface itself is cold.... your asking for a thin layer build up right at the metal, to not really expand. until it comes spring/summer when things warm up. and that could cause the metal siding to expand out / pop the nails that are holding the siding on. if you have walls / ceiling covered, it may push the stuff away from the walls/ceiling inside as well.
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i am by no means a pro here, just personal experiences of falling flat on my face learning. of DIY projects here on the farm. and i would most likely shy away from installers wanting to do stuff in the winter, and trying to push there luck onto you. and trying to make some cash for themselves.
cold air = condenses (gets smaller)
warm air = expands (gets larger)
i am sure there is different chemicals, and heating stuff requirements for putting it on, in the cold. but... if you can wait till spring when things warm up. so much better long term results of the spray foam.
i would be iffy, putting closed cell spray foam in at winter. even just for a temp job. trying to do a metal barn/shed. were surface itself is cold.... your asking for a thin layer build up right at the metal, to not really expand. until it comes spring/summer when things warm up. and that could cause the metal siding to expand out / pop the nails that are holding the siding on. if you have walls / ceiling covered, it may push the stuff away from the walls/ceiling inside as well.
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i am by no means a pro here, just personal experiences of falling flat on my face learning. of DIY projects here on the farm. and i would most likely shy away from installers wanting to do stuff in the winter, and trying to push there luck onto you. and trying to make some cash for themselves.
Every contractor I talked to recommended 1" and have been doing it for years without problems. Our warehouse at work is 1" and I know a lot of farmers who have the same without any problems. Something I don't think some of you are taking into account is the building is located in Oklahoma. Not Canada. We have been in the 60's every day for the last week, and yesterday it was 75 degrees. I put up my Christmas lights in shorts and a T shirt.
IXLR8
Veteran Member
Location does matter for thickness. There are a dozen reasons, but moisture (condensation) is the number one reason spray foam will not stick, surface needs to be DRY.
MotorSeven
Elite Member
On my Quonset we had some adhesion problems not due to temp or moisture. Later on I found out that the metal arches are coated with some kind of light oil to prevent corrosion before being stacked on the pallet(the pallet weights 6,000 lbs) before shipping. I would have de-greased/pressure washed the metal and let it dry before the spray foam if I had known.
Update. After 3 tries I think we are good to go. He came back and tried again but of course it was 15 degrees again and surprise it didn't stick again except the small area where the heater was blowing on the wall. The third time it was warmer and we put enough heaters in there it got up to 80 degrees. I think a lot of the problem was the product and the hose that delivers it was not warm enough.
This has by far been the worst experience I have ever had with a contractor. A couple of young kids who acted like they were going out of their way to fix a problem they created. A true professional should know when it is too cold to apply foam. That is part of what I was paying them for.
After spending almost $500 on paint, lowes had some 3/4 T&G OSB on sale for $4.50/sheet. Wish I wouldn't have painted it all now, but covering with the OSB anyway.
This has by far been the worst experience I have ever had with a contractor. A couple of young kids who acted like they were going out of their way to fix a problem they created. A true professional should know when it is too cold to apply foam. That is part of what I was paying them for.
After spending almost $500 on paint, lowes had some 3/4 T&G OSB on sale for $4.50/sheet. Wish I wouldn't have painted it all now, but covering with the OSB anyway.
forgeblast
Elite Member
I bought a kit from Foam it Green Spray Foam Insulation Kits it was easy to use came in two lp grill tank sized containers.
roadhunter
Elite Member
Foam spray rigs have heaters that warm the mix as it is sprayed.
CAT97
Member
When I was a young man my father used to spray foam insulation in the ice holds of commerical fishing vessels and I worked for him with this stuff for a couple of
years. We would spray foam with boats either in or out of water it didn't matter, but what did matter was 2 factors. One the surface HAD to be dry and free of dust,
and TWO it would NOT stick to a slick surface. To remedy number one we would put a fan on the steel hull and vacume off the dust because we would usually
sandblast the steel hull to not only remove scale but also roughn the surface. If you have a slick surface you might have to sand it with a scrubby pad prior to
application, and make sure surface is dry and clean. Some of the metal buildings have a thin oily surface that must be removed. Just my 2 cents worth.
years. We would spray foam with boats either in or out of water it didn't matter, but what did matter was 2 factors. One the surface HAD to be dry and free of dust,
and TWO it would NOT stick to a slick surface. To remedy number one we would put a fan on the steel hull and vacume off the dust because we would usually
sandblast the steel hull to not only remove scale but also roughn the surface. If you have a slick surface you might have to sand it with a scrubby pad prior to
application, and make sure surface is dry and clean. Some of the metal buildings have a thin oily surface that must be removed. Just my 2 cents worth.