Spool broke in Kubota B2920 loader valve - any options besides new $900 loader valve?

[Michael In Tennessee]

I suspect there is some company, somewhere that can rebuild these valves. However, I'd bet if you found them, you'd have a long wait and be at least half-way to the price of a new valve anyway.

I looked at the parts drawings on-line and I'd not want to try to adapt a generic valve to that tractor. You would have to change all the hard lines to the FEL and well as the supply lines. Then, you would have to get your lever to work with the valve (it is not cable actuated). You would easily have a few hundred dollars in adaptation parts in addition to the price of the generic valve.

I don't see a generic valve being a price advantage in this case. Sorry to say, but it looks like your out $1k in a new valve as a best option unless, for some reason, your dealer can get Kubota to replace the valve for free.

 

[Dave M7040]

Is there a label on the valve? One which has a manufacturer's name and not just Kubota's.

The valves were not unique to Kubota, just identified & labeled for Kubota. The same valve was being sold on the open market with its own manufacturers number which anyone could buy.

Tractor data shows the B2920 made in these years: 2008 - 2015. That is not a long time ago so manufacturer likely still exists.

Dave M7040

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Whether you replace with a non OEM valve would depend on your mechanical ability and fabrication skills. Probably can make mounting bracket adaptions w/o welding. If the savings are hundreds of dollars I would probably do it. Have such a project coming up on my BX as it has a whole bunch of rods with u-joints connecting the lever to the valve located down in the frame. After 1500 hours the linkage is getting sloppy and I want other valves for grapple and rear outlets. Combine into one cluster is the plan.

Figure out the functions you have and what you may want to add, draw simple diagram of the piping as it now is. Then call the tech guys at Surplus Center and get their advice and pricing as a decision driver. Most of the labor you will have either way you go. They will want to about GPM, float and regen on the existing, power beyond, and features of any thing you want to add. If you decide to go that route you will get plenty of help here, just separate the wheat from the chaff.

Ron

 

[TMGT]

I believe I remember someone adapting an aftermarket valve to a B2x20 on another site a while ago. If I remember correctly there was an issue with some of the Kubota loader valves on the B2x20's so you might want do some research on it.

Thay said, if you have to replace it on your own dime I would go with a factory valve. The aftermarket ones that would be cost effective to do it just aren't that nice compared to the factory Kubota piece, which is one of the things I really like about Kubota is the loader control.

As for buying direct from the valve manufacturer, I don't remember why exactly but the last person that had this issue wasnt able to.

 

[rScotty]

Thanks a lot guys. Do these aftermarket valve kits just "bolt on" or is some fabricating needed?

The Kubota B-series is a little different, I think. For example, the loader valve comes with the base tractor, but no loader. It is mounted down on the side of the transmission, kind of inside the rear fender. The loader joystick comes up from the floor by the operator's right foot area.

My other Kubotas have the loader valve mounted up high to the right of the instrument cluster. Attached is a pic of my B-series next to my new MX...arrowed are the locations of the valves. Do you think one of these aftermarkets would still work?
View attachment 600011

Yes, an aftermarket would work. No question about it. And it would be more durable and probably more sensitive. But after viewing your picture it would require some pretty sophisticated fabrication abilities as well as knowledge of hydraulics to move an aftermarket valve up to a new location. Price wise you'd probably save half the price of a stock valve in return for your time. I'm guessing you already know if you have these skills or want to put that time into it.

Looking at your broken spool valve, I cannot see any reason why it would break - in fact, I don't see any way to break one .... even deliberately. Did it show any symptoms?? I would be looking for an explanation first. There is no reason to replace something without fixing the cause.

Have you tried Kubota's technical rep and made an argument? That's where I would start, although I have no idea where to contact one. It would be helpful to get the dealer on your side. Your dealer should be the other person who has a vested interest in seeing it fixed properly.

rScotty

 

[Zebrafive]

Have you considered trying to find a used valve from a tractor salvage yard?

 

[wdchyd]

If it was mine, if money was a problem I’d do a conversion with a generic valve mounted on a welded bracket on the loader frame but not do any permanent changes on the existing control valve if a suitable used replacement comes along in the future. Make it permanently temporary so you’ll be able to back peddle down the road and possibly sell the generic replacement to recover some costs.
I prefer the OEM joystick valves on the botas, very handy to do multi functions (ie: lift and curl) and compact out if the way.......




or just bite the bullet and fork out the $900.

 

[troverman]

**Update**

I dropped the B2920 at the dealer and signed a work order to fix / replace valve, and change the transmission fluid / filters.

I am mechanically inclined but even the dealer quotes 3-5 hours of labor to R&R the valve, in a shop that has all appropriate equipment, tools, manuals, and training to do so. I laid under the tractor and decided there is a considerable amount to remove to be able to access the valve to remove it. My valve spools are two piece; the lowest detent portion is threaded on to the main spool. I spoke to the service manager about this and if it is repairable they will replace just the threaded piece.

I thought about the aftermarket valves, and it was fairly easy to conclude I wouldn't go this way. I have access to welding and cutting equipment, but basically it came down to three reasons:

1.) Adapting an aftermarket valve is not simple given the location of the factory valve
2.) This tractor is a 2013 still in nice condition - don't want the aftermarket look
3.) Kubota loader valves are very nice in their ability to dump/curl while raising/lowering. Most other valves are not as good.

In the end, I appreciate the support and advice. I'm figuring this could cost me between $1500-2000 with the fluid change as well, but the tractor should be good after that.

 

[wdchyd]

MB or Chappell?

 

[troverman]

Actually Pinnacleview up in Walpole.