splitter wedge to ram question

[trialsguy]

I have a 24" cylinder and I am in the mock up stage and I am wondering the pros and cons of setting it up so that I get full travel all the way to the splitting edge. Should I make it so that I have room for wear on the edge and make it so that the ram bottoms out with say a 1/2" more travel or make it so that it falls short a couple inches? I didn't even think about this when I had a much shorter cylinder but now I am wondering if I could use it to cut 2" and smaller cross way for the kindling. What is your guys opinion?

Thanks
Bob

 

[winston1]

I have a Duerr splitter and it lacks an inch or so bottoming out. I would reccomend you let yours stop a little above bottom. If you want to cut something down there put a scrap piece of wood down there to let it bottom out on so your wedge won't make metal contact. Winston

 

[radioman]

I used both styles of splitters, one that bottoms out and other with inch gap. I personally hate, hate, hate the one with a gap. Sometimes you get couple peices of wood that wont let go and need another peice to feed though. It seems the newer splitters have the gap due to liability issues. My father ended up welding on a metal block to eat up the gap. I wouldn't worry about the wear down of the wedge. Even if it does wear down to 1/4 inch gap or so it not enough to be a problem and adding a sheet of metal will always restore that but won't happen anytime soon after heavy use.

 

[some zilch]

i specifically built mine to have about a 3 inch gap. that way my big dumb arm can never get caught in it, as i usually work alone, and my splitter is fully "automated". i rarley have issues with the ram not going all the way to the wedge. my wood is usually fully split and broken by the time it is 6 inches into the wedge.

 

[DaveOmak]

trails guy, Morning. Think about the base plate where the wedge is pushing against. Build it with a space in it where the wedge will enter making it a guillotine. That should solve your problem. Make the space as deep as you need. If you need to split 24" wood, you can make the guillotine piece an "add on" to use when you cut kindling and then remove it for splitting. Dave

 

[J_J]

I believe the gap on some splitters is designed for a 4 way wedge as a add on. I would recommend a gap, that would let a 4 way wedge adapter work with your splitter. You can always add to the plate to decrease the gap

 

[J_J]

i specifically built mine to have about a 3 inch gap. that way my big dumb arm can never get caught in it, as i usually work alone, and my splitter is fully "automated". i rarley have issues with the ram not going all the way to the wedge. my wood is usually fully split and broken by the time it is 6 inches into the wedge.

By fully automated, do you mean the two lever log splitter valve? If so, how well does it work. and does it work good enough on blackjack oak?

 

[tessiers]

I left 4" on mine to split 28" wood for my shop stove, and add a 4 way wedge as well. On the rare ocasion that I have a piece hang up I just load the next piece (shorter than 28") and push it through. I occasionally cut off a branch by putting it through with a piece of wood behind it, works OK I guess.

 

[glastron23]

it's a personal choice but you must first determine what type of cylinder you are using,if it is a welded unit or a tie rod unit. If the gland head is screwed into the cylinder tube then it won't matter.. but if the glad head in held in by a roll clip in the side of the glad head or by a snap ring then you will have problems with the head leaking/blowing off after repeated extensions of the cylinder and it bottoming out on the head.. this is also for the tie rod style. personally when i build splitters i have the push plate come in contact with the knife, Jim

 

[Wayne_H]

The one I'm putting together is designed for a four way wedge, so without the four way I have a bit over an inch. With it on, it's less than a 1/2 inch. I think the reason some of the home cheapo versions have such a large gap is so they can say they will cut "28" inch logs with a 24 inch cylinder.

Wayne

 

[trialsguy]

Thanks guys lots of good info, Boy looking at other designs on the knife, I have over sized mine. I made my 12" tall and 12" long, Heck I could have made it 8-10" long and been fine I think. Oh well it is welded on now.

I may add some steel to it to make it spread the wood though I figured I would see how it works then go from there.

Wayne What type of edge to you have on the four way splitter?

 

[Wayne_H]

The wedge I bought from Timberwolf in Vermont. Timberwolf and Rayco make a heavy duty splitter with wedge and log lift.

Wayne

 

[Scotty370]

I'm in the "Run-it-to-the-end" camp! If you get 'stringy' wood, with it at the end, you have it clamped, so a kick will bust stuff apart! ~Scotty

 

[villli]

The one I'm putting together is designed for a four way wedge, so without the four way I have a bit over an inch. With it on, it's less than a 1/2 inch. I think the reason some of the home cheapo versions have such a large gap is so they can say they will cut "28" inch logs with a 24 inch cylinder.

Wayne

Hi please please please could you do for me a small sketch of the wedge i would like to do it like Timberwolf TW-5 but Iam from europe and it is dificult to get measure.Thank you wery much .

I now bad Englisch Sorry

 

[villli]

Some pictures,the wege is a problem I would like to make it compatible with TW-5

 

[tatra805]

Hi Villi,

This is my splitter, i tried to explain a bit about the setup of the knive in this thread; maybe it can help you.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/152827-my-logsplitter.html

Good luck with the build, the plans look nice.