Soon to buy L5030HST??

[ScottOkla]

I have been reading for a few months now on these forums, and am strongly leaning towards the L5030. I need to buy before the end of October.

Any suggestions or comments about this or similar tractors, options, features, and attachments would be appreciated.

I have a new home on 50 acres. 5 acres will be mowed twice a month near the house, the remaining area is tree-covered and will be mowed 2 or 3 times per year.

I will be removing many trees for firewood and general clearing each year. The trees are mostly in bottom-land (30 acres) that floods once per year and is a bit wet some months. These trees are mostly very mature, but with much brush in some areas. I will be thinning and cleaning yearly. I'm not sure how much this tractor could help with that.

Additionally, I will be developing a large (1 acre) garden, an orchard (2 acres), and an area of improved pecans (5-10 acres) that are just above the bottom-land area.

Additionally, I will want to move this tractor to my father's larger property 40 miles away (rural highway) a few times per year to help with him with some activities not well-suited to his plain but powerful M9000 (such as mowing in wet areas and running smaller pecan equipment). I have a half-ton pickup limited at towing about 7000 lbs according to the manufacturer, along with a nice 10k trailer with slide-out ramps.


All of this makes it difficult to decide on one single tractor. I am leaning towards the L5030 HST because it is powerful enough to run a pecan harvester (35 PTO HP), run a small pecan shaker (1000lbs at 3-pt, requires 35 to 45 PTO), and run a larger brush hog, but is light enough to not do major damage when mowing wet areas in the spring or occasionally in the fall, esp near the house. Plus the HST will make mowing around dozens of acres of trees easier once or twice per year.

I know that is a lot to digest, but I would appreciate comments or suggestions. I few of you (FL_Cracker) for have recently bought this similar machine and your posts have been very helpful already.

Thanks!

 

[jdavis3099]

With a FEL and BH the 5030 will be over 6,000 pounds before the weight of the trailer. For the operation you are describing I would suggest a 3/4 ton truck with 27 ft (including 5ft dovetail) gooseneck trailer on 8K axels. You will need the truck and trailer in your land operations anyway. I run a 4630 and the 5030 should be fine for what you are describing. If you are working around trees you may want to not get a cab.

 

[grandad]

Welcome to both of you here on TBN! I agree the L5030 should be a good match for your stated tasks... you've got the size and power to do some serious work but it's got a lighter footprint than most 50hp utility tractors so it should do better in the soft stuff. Most everyone who has a 5030 seems to say they are top notch all the way.

I'll also second your caution about having the right equipment to transport such a rig. The dealer and I figured my L4610 with the LA852 loader and 4560 BH is something around 8,000 lbs... your 4630 would probably be similar and a 5030 a bit more.

 

[JoeR]

If I had to do it over again, I would drop the BH-90 (Backhoe) and get an air conditioned cab. The BH-90 is a great tool, but after I finished my projects, I find it to be the least used piece of equipment I have. Now I want A/C and a cab, this way I will stay cool, dry, and clean! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Joe

 

[txdon]

Scotokla, The L5030HST will do the jobs intended, I know I have one and love it. You have picked the right tractor now lets talk options and accessories.

FEL - LA853 with quick attach, and with a toothbar for popping up the brush and removing the brush. The quick attach will come in handy when you get other attachment like a boom pole, grapple bucket, forks, cement mixer, etc etc....

BH90 - is very useful but not mandatory unless you plan on removing larger trees and stumps. But if you are going to remove a lot of big trees (6"+) get a bulldozer in there for a day and save your tractor. I use mine to dig out mesquite trees here and there. I used to grub them out by hand, now I push the knobs and just smile and smile.. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Canopy - a life saver in the summer and I don't have to worry about breaking the cab glass in the woods. Don't get me wrong, a cab is very nice but I like the noise, dust and heat. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

TOP & Tilt - If you are going to use a box blade the hydraulic controls are so very nice. Make sure to get piloted hydraulic cylinders to reduce leak down.

R4 tires - wider is better - unless you will be operating in gumbo mud.

Grapple- many kinds - an optional and you can add later, just something to think about for moving brush around.

Working the FEL with HST is a blast. I know you will enjoy it.

Just remember for most power use low range and 4WD - you won't stall and you will push/pull till you loose traction. Also remember when you let up on the HST pedal you are like shifting into a lower gear, not reducing the throttle.
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[odleefs]

What is the price on the 5030HST can and non cab models?
If the difference is slight, I would certainly consider the cab...you may need to trim some trees for clearance but the cab is protection from branches and twigs for when you are clearing out the brush in your bottom land 30 acres. And I know you would appreciate the A/C come next July and August /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif.

 

[JoeR]

I think the cab adds $3,500 to $4,000 in price. Depends on where you live... The BH-90 adds $5,000 to $6,000.

Joe

 

[ScottOkla]

Thanks for the replies. All of the comments were very helpful.

I will not be getting a backhoe due to expense and weight, and I will not be getting a cab because of expense and the type of work I will be doing under trees in the orchard. I'm afraid I would tear it up quickly. I frequently let lower limbs skid over my ROPS when I mow with the M9000. I'm even leary of the canopy, although it would be great in the summer in open areas.

From reading past posts, I was leaning towards getting 2 or 3 rear remotes, but not the Kubota TnT because of the leak-down cylinder issue. Is this accurate? I will speak to the dealer about other cylinders.

I have a lot of clay to stick in the R4s, but I will go with them to be kinder on the topsoil when mowing. I will NOT load the tires

I could definitely use the grapple and toothbar. PLEASE SUGGEST SOME FOR ME TO CONSIDER! I will be moving lots of cut trees/logs and some other brush.

As far as the weight of the tractor, I thought I could safely move the tractor with loader a few times each year, but maybe not with the box blade or mower attached. My trailer is 16ft and my truck is an F150. Those will not change anytime soon. The highway is rural and mostly flat. Not much traffic at 7:00 Saturday morning.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. If you have any more, please post them. Any comments on what a fair price would be for this L5030HST? I will be visiting a couple of dealers this week.

 

[txdon]

ScottOkla, if you ever plan on getting the grapple get three remotes. I have two and will get the third if I ever take it in for service. A good combo for clearing is the FEL with toothbar and a bolt on grapple and a heavy (900#) box blade with TNT.

 

[evanjohnson]

I have an L4610HST with R4's and ROPS/ approximately 350 hours of seat time. I added an ATI Quick Attach to the loader and a Long 4in1 bucket. I don't like the 4in1 and quickly bought a Kubota bucket (and have not put the Long bucket back on the tractor since.) In my opinion, the Long bucket is too heavy (tires not loaded) ; however, the Long valving works great with a Piranah root grapple. For clearing, I can cut and dispose of whole 16"-24" trees in 10-15 minutes versus 1 hour without the grapple.

As for towing with a 1/2 ton. I towed with a Ford F150 extended cab and always felt a little squirrelly with a 20' tandem axle/ bumper pull at speeds above 40 MPH. I towed several times without a brake controller and never felt comfortable above 35 MPH for stopping. I now tow on the same trailer with a diesel Excursion and a brake controller and have no problems or concerns towing the tractor with the grapple and a heavy bush hog (approx. 8500 lbs. without the trailer) at highway speeds.

My only complaints with the Kubota are 1. too small of a fuel tank and 2. the paint chips easily, especially on the loader. I have a friend who is familiar with Kubota's paint line in Georgia and indicates that they have had some problems with their wet coating line.

I hope my rambling is of some help.
Evan

 

[evanjohnson]

OOPS-
Sorry. I meant to say 8500 lbs. with trailer.
Evan

 

[FL_Cracker]

texdon has done a great job with his post. Get the three remotes from Kubota and CCM TNT cylinders. I also don't care for the cab unless you have real rough weather to deal with, like snow plowing. The BH90 cost a lot but it sure does the work. Culverts, stumps, drainage, moving rocks, and getting you unstuck in a bad spot. The BH90 also makes for a great counter weight for a grapple. If going with a grapple make sure to order the Quick Attach option from Kubota. If you don't use the BH90 for counter weight, think about what you will use. When it comes to a grapple I would go with Skid Steer Solutions as their ANB grapple is real HD and works as a root rake without digging up a lot of dirt. The ANB grapple also open real wide(like straight up and down) and can hold a lot of brush. If using a grapple you may want to load the tires. The Woods RM990 finish mower does a nice job and has break-a-way blades like a brush hog and can be used in some heavy brush, like finger size weeds and trees.

Mines now over 100 hours and going strong.

I love my L5030HST-R4 (And yes the wife too) (And the Kids) (And the dog) But the Kubota in it's own special way..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[ScottOkla]

I had the L5030HST delivered Friday.

no cab or backhoe
R4's - not loaded (wet mowing, lighter transport)
QA loader, came with (in error) light-duty bucket
3 remotes
Rhino SE6 cutter

Price seemed good at $26,350 without cutter, but that was suppose to be with the HD bucket.

SE6 was $1400 more. I maybe could have done better there.

Only 2 hours on it so far. 4WD will get a lot of use because of the R4s. It will take a while to get comfortable with the HST after using the M9000 for so long.

Thanks for the grapple and other suggestions. I will likely have some follow-ups.

 

[Dargo]

Can you post a pic of your bucket? I only paid for the regular bucket, but it weighs more than, and looks stronger, than the "HD" bucket that is sitting at my dealership. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif If your bucket is like mine, I see no need for the HD bucket. I assure you I've used my bucket to the max on moving large rocks and I've yanked for all she's worth with hooks I welded on, and there is no bends or distortion to my bucket.

 

[jmc]

Nice rig. I bought the smaller L4330 manual transmission, and like others, they sent the regular bucket on the loader instead of the HD. After looking the bucket over and noting that the upper lip is reinforced with the QA frame, I decided to keep it. I couldn't bend this thing without blatant abuse.

You'll like the way the entire loader comes off for increasing the maneuverabillity around trees.

John

 

[ScottOkla]

Thanks again for the comments.

I mowed for an hour and that loader will need to come off for me to get around my trees without doing harm.

The dealer told me today that they do not usually include the heavy duty buckets, "usually" meaning that that they don't actually keep any of them on-site. I don't think I will change it, but the quote from the other dealer included the heavy duty bucket. Not enough diff to worry about it, though. I like this dealer.


I still need a tiller, boxblade, toothbar, and grapple. I just am not a fast decision maker. Plus, my dealer did not give special price breaks when packaged together.

I'm leaning towards KK 72" tiller at $1499 from Atwoods.

Not decided yet on which of a United 72" boxblade or going a big Cammond with hydrolic rippers. If I can find a great boxblade to use on both my L5030 and my Dad's M9000, I will likely go that route. If not, I will go with the United. The United seems almost free compared to the Cammond. I hear great things about the Cammond, though.

Toothbar and grapple still up in the air. It looks like $2000+ for a new grappple, from what I've seen here and at the dealer. There have been some very helpful grapple posts here.

 

[WVBartMan]

Scott: You can pull it with a F150, no farther than your going, flat ground, rural country, just take your time and make sure you have plenty of tongue weight. Stopping is the only real issue, make sure the trailer brakes work or keep a big following distance.

I use a F250 PSD to pull a 25' gooseneck with a L5030 Cab, loaded R4 tires, loader, 2,000lb John Deere Aerator, 4,000 lbs of fertilizer, 2,500 lbs of seed, 175 lbs spreader and the trailer weighs 4,700 lbs empty. All of this in the mountains of West Virginia at a high rate of speed.

If your use to pulling big weight and paying attention to your defensive driving skills save your money and keep the truck you have now. If you were going to be putting alot of miles on the truck pulling that tractor then I would say different.

Engineers that design pickups always rate them for "worst case scenarios" and over design/under rate by a factor of two and sometimes three. They do that for the "short bus kids" that buy a pickup, put a load on it and then try to drive it like a car.

Spend that money saved on implements you need.