Sometime cruise control?

[DocHeb]

Yeah - about $320 from New Holland for the three-book repair manual set and the one-book parts manual. There is a nice blue binder to put them in.

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I got used to acetone while working in the Chemistry lab getting my undergrad degree - everything got washed first in soapy water, then rinsed in acetone. )</font>

Years ago I used to maintain an electron microprobe for a geochemist. He used acetone to dry all his samples. It was very effective at removing all moisture. It used to drive me crazy that he stored it in the same cabinet with his reagent grade doubly-distilled acids. He even kept perchloric acid in the same cabinet. If he'd ever had a leak.... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Did I mention he was not always too safe? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[johnday]

Chris; Do they charge for the binder? Like I've been known to say, prices for tractor parts are a lot like boats. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[johnday]

Well guys, it's going to the hospital. There was a part not shown on the drawings I dealt with. The only way to describe it is to say it had a bellcrank on one end that had lost it's nut. The bellcrank is on the end of some sort of dampener [I think thats what it is] that I could compress and extend with no trouble, it also has a dust boot attached. I can't determine what it is much less a name for it. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I hate it when I don't know the name of things. At any rate, there sure isn't much room under there! That was another surprise. After I made my fix, I checked it out. Now the pedal won't stay down as much as before. After all the advice from you guys, I'm believing it's the magnet too. Think I'll let a little more knowledgable hands get on it. I'll let you guys know what was found so if it happens to you, you'll know what to do.

Hey Chris, if I gave a good enough description of the mystery part, could you figure out what and why it's there? Like I said, it really irks me not knowing what parts are what on anything mechanical, especially when they are my parts. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[DocHeb]

Jinman may be the better person to answer this - he has had his entire deck off to replace his HST control linkage (pivot plate). This part is highlighted in the attachment.

A picture, maybe?

 

[DocHeb]

Yes, they charge you for the binder - after the swallowing the price of the manuals, the $17.64 for the binder is only incidental. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[PineRidge]

John sometimes you can get lucky at eBay and find the New Holland service manuals at a good price. In my case there was a customer that traded up from a TC-40D and he had also purchased the service manual set so I was lucky and picked up the set for 100 bucks from my dealer.

 

[johnday]

Chris; Wow, you guys are really trying to help! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif The damper is part #11 on the exploded view. What I'm calling a bellcrank is toward the backend of it and bolts up thru part #23.

You would have thought they could have thrown the binder in for free for that price! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Thanks for the time you've spent trying to help me understand this. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

A picture might help you see what I'm saying, but my little Nikon 775 won't focus down that close.

 

[johnday]

Mike; EBay here I go! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[jinman]

Chris and John, I go away to clean my garage and it seems you've about figured this out. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I'll post a couple of pictures, but I have to run pretty quick again. I'm sure you guys can figure this out just fine without me. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
The first picture is the assembly with the big "B"-shaped plate removed. You can see the damper and also the bellcrank that has the roller that rolls on the B-plate. In the upper left you can see the cruise electromagnet.

 

[jinman]

Oops! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I got my pictures backwards.

Here's the one with the plate out. In the last post, the red arrow points at the electromagnet.

 

[johnday]

Guys; I'm getting the picture now! /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif Pun intended. Looks like the damper is used to dampen the return on the forward and reverse pedals and had nothing to do with the cruise control after all. Well, triple hmmm. It must have been disconnected when it was delivered. I never noticed any difference in the pedals though after I'd reattached it. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I think I'll give up for now and let the dealer check it out further, wonder else might be found? Think they'll charge me for pickup and redelivery? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[DocHeb]

I've attached the actual parts list for the previously attached exploded diagram. If you use the actual terms the parts/service guy should give you a little more R-E-S-P-E-C-T. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Just a little Motown for us Southeast Michigan guys.

 

[johnday]

Chris; Thanks for the drawings with the proper names. I felt a little better being able to explain the problem intelligently to the mechanics. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gifThey've got my machine, but don't know whats wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gifThey're telling me that they have 3 TC's on the line. One of them the cruise works as it should, one a "little like mine", and the third just like mine. Needless to say my confidence has diminished somewhat. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif If the mechanic wasn't a friend of mine, I'd have zero confidence right now. We discussed the problem and came up with that it appeared the magnet wasn't holding properly. No surprise there. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I'm wondering after looking at the schematics in the owners manual if the diode might be bad,or even the latch relay.
Any ideas from you guys? I felt almost like telling them to give me the machine with the cruise that works. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[jinman]

John, our cruise controls are as dumb as a rock and so simple that it's hard to figure anyone having trouble fixing them. The darn coil is just an electomagnet like the ones we made with a nail, copper wire, and a battery when we were in grade school. I have tested my cruise control by releasing the brake pedals, turning the key ON (don't start the engine), pressing the forward pedal, and setting the cruise control to ON. If it doesn't hold, something is wrong. Reach over and press the button off and the pedals will go to neutral. It's as simple as that. If the brake pedal switch is out of adjustment, then cruise will not stay engaged. I'd almost bet that's your problem, but the slimmer chance is the relay and lastly the electromagnetic coil.

All I'm saying is that it's not a difficult circuit to test. Surely your dealer's mechanic will be able to figure this out. Probably the easiest mistake to make is to try to get cruise to set with the brakes ON or the parking brake SET. Don't ask me how I know. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[johnday]

Jim; Just read your reply, and after getting machine back about an hour ago with the same problem, I'm going to do a little troubleshooting on my own. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I think I'll start with the brake switch like you suggest. I'll start by disconnecting it and see what happens. My guy said he replaced the magnet, checked voltage at same [12.4V], and said the circuit is good to go. I was advised to work the tractor a few month's and see what happens once I get a little dirt and rust on the shoe. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif I have a bit of a background in electrics, so what I really need are a few specs on voltage, ohms, etc. None of this is rocket science, so I'll just plug away untill I find something. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

I have been known to have to show "mechanics" the error of thier ways sometimes. Once I even had to show the mechanic at a VW dealership how to read a wiring diagram. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[jinman]

Am I understanding you correctly that you got the tractor back and cruise still does not work? What's up with that? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

John, to help you troubleshoot, the brake switch removes the ground path for the cruise relay coil. When the relay de-energizes, its contacts remove the 12 VDC from the electromagnet.

Now if the tech at the dealership read 12.4 VDC at the magnet coil, then the cruise circuit is working. You should be able to release the brakes, turn on the key, push down on either hydro pedal, and lock it in place with the cruise control button. Next, tap on the brakes (both pedals at the same time) and cruise should release. That's just a quick operational test you can do without having the tractor running. When I do this and set my cruise, I can hear the magnet energize and clamp down on the hydro pedals. If your cruise will not set or stay set, check the brake pedal.

Also you have two fuses for this circuit. One fuse (8-amp) is for the relay coil and the other is for the power to the electromagnet (7.5 amp).

Good luck! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[johnday]

Jim; Yep, you read that right /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Impressed? Not very favorably. I've been reading the other posts about the electrical problems with the TN's. It may be a little too early to demand another tractor, but that "is"an option. I'm going to try your suggestion once I wakeup a little more. You and Chris have REALLY been helpful. I'll let you guys know what I may find. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[johnday]

Jim, Chris, and Rick; It's fixxed. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Unbelievably simple at that! I PMed RickB the other night. He replied rather quickly, saying to check the tension on the pedal return spring. He hit it right on the nose. With the help I got from all of you guys, I'm now a happy camper. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

One thing that still concerns me though is that the dealer couldn't figure this out? /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif Think I should let them know? This isn't the first time I've fixxed a vehicle then had to show a "real" mechanic how to do it. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[DocHeb]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( He replied rather quickly, saying to check the tension on the pedal return spring.)</font>

Does that mean you loosened the tension on that spring? Many of us with earlier Class III Boomers have maxed out the tension on that spring to "correct" the problem with HST pedals not returning to neutral, especially under load. In fact, the newer DA models have a higher tension spring, and there is a retrofit for older models that provides a higher tension spring. Hopefully with your TC35DA, loosening the spring will fix the cruise control problem without unmasking the HST pedal problem.

See:

6. Sticky/sluggish hydro pedals
HST Just Won't Stop, Quit, Woah! This post gives the part number for a new spring and plate for the Class II and Class III Boomers.
HST pedal sticks under load
Follow-up to sticky hydro. pedals
Response from NH on sticky hydraulic pedals