Some Flexwing 15' mower questions....

[Richard]

How well does a 15/20' flail follow the land contours compared to a flexwing?

I have a couple areas where my 15' has a section that scalps. I'm wondering if a flail is better for flat/flat land verses rolling hills??

 

[RickB]

How well does a 15/20' flail follow the land contours compared to a flexwing?

Not anywhere nearly as well.

 

[leonz]

How well does a 15/20' flail follow the land contours compared to a flexwing?

I have a couple areas where my 15' has a section that scalps. I'm wondering if a flail is better for flat/flat land verses rolling hills??

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Hello and good evening Richard,

A flail crop shredder like the 15-20 foot wide Hiniker shredder does not have a rear roller. The lowest shredding/mowing height is 2 inches and the rear gauge wheels maintain this mowing height when it is either a towed unit or a three point hitch mounted unit. The Model 1700 flail shredder requires a tractor with a 1,000 RPM power take off.
The model 1700 flail shredder has 4 hydraulically adjusted gauge wheels to control the shredding height.

The folding 3 section Inobrezice Dominator flail crop shredder do not use a rear roller. The Dominator model will allow a 15 degree upward angle of shredding and a minus 10 degree down angle for shredding for the outer shredder sections.

The triplex Dominator requires a row crop tractor of 130 horsepower and has the ability to allow the outer wings to follow the contour.
Both implements use rear tires adjusted hydraulically to maintain the cutting cutting height.


The 6 foot cut Hiniker crop shredder uses a CV joint on its PTO shaft to allow tighter turns during crop shredding and mowing down to two inches using either a ratchet jack or a double acting hydraulic cylinder.

 

[Rustyiron]

Richard I've only had full round pans, but your question has me thinking that at whatever rpm the blade spindle is turning at, does it really matter as generally your traveling across the obstacle anyways. The only down side I can think of is possibly having multiple impacts (of an oval shaped pan) with the stump or rock as the oval shape come on and off the rock, particularly if you were stopped over it. I have noticed that a big round pan can be distorted at 90* (1/4 turn) from the blade where it's not supported by the heavy "t" assembly that carries the blades and possibly set up a vibration that may be hard on the main seals:confused3:. An oval shape would be much closet to the "hub" or support from the center and be pretty strong.

I'd like to ask a mower question here since we've got a bunch of experienced mowers here....
I've had a bunch of "bush hog" mowers over the years, from cheap to expensive. Right now I have a 8' twin spindle Bush Hog brand HD 3pt mower where the blades have about a 2-3" drop in them from the mounting surface. I replaced them with the correct Bush Hog brand blades and in very short order, they were bent upwards and cut like crap. I've never seen this before and am thinking about just putting a flat or straight blade on. I called Messicks (where I ordered from) and never heard back from "the right guy".
FWIW it's a model 3008-2 and in the pic below are my old blades (I bought it used) and the new, uninstalled blades. i
In under 10 hours the new blades look the same.

I've never had this happen on any of at least a half dozen mowers before.

 

[ovrszd]

Hmmmmm..... Why is that happening? Makes no sense. In theory the end of the blade should pull downward. If you scalped the ground I guess the end might be forced upward because the pan wouldn't be taking part of the impact?

I always thought the large drop blades would be harder on the swivel pin. And I always thought they might pull a little easier because nothing is hitting the inner blade or pan?

 

[Rustyiron]

I can't figure it out. A good friend said after a while the centrifugal forces straighten out the blade and he'd seen it before. I really don't "buy" that one. As I said it wasn't 10 hours on brand new blades before they were straightening out and I concerned that heating and beating them back will not be the answer. These blades are not cheap and there's 2 different p/n for cw/ccw rotation. They cut "in" to each other.

 

[leonz]

Hello rustyiron,

You need to check the steel plate to see if it has any weakness/flexing
in the plate and the sides as that may be what the problem is with
causing the damaged blades.

 

[ovrszd]

I can't figure it out. A good friend said after a while the centrifugal forces straighten out the blade and he'd seen it before. I really don't "buy" that one. As I said it wasn't 10 hours on brand new blades before they were straightening out and I concerned that heating and beating them back will not be the answer. These blades are not cheap and there's 2 different p/n for cw/ccw rotation. They cut "in" to each other.

I can't quite swallow that reasoning either. But I sure don't have any other answer.

 

[ovrszd]

Hello rustyiron,

You need to check the steel plate to see if it has any weakness/flexing
in the plate and the sides as that may be what the problem is with
causing the damaged blades.

The pan is reinforced with a bar similar to a cutter without pan.

 

[Rustyiron]

Yes a very stout bar!