Snowblower Guidance

[carrsw1]

I am a new BX2350 owner. I purchased the unit with the front mount snowblower to handle my driveway.....the driveway is paved, almost 1000 ft long, it has two fairly steep hills, two 90 degree turns, and its own bridge. There is no place to push the snow so the snowblower is essential.

I am a new resident in southern Connecticut, having moved here recently from Atlanta, Georgia.

My question is regarding traction with the front mount blower attached. I purchased a set of chains for the rear tires (turf). Can anyone recommend if I should load the tires or acquire some weights or should the chains be enough?

Appreciate any advice that is provided. I have a grand total of 3.2 hours on the tractor so far but suspect that once the snow starts, this should increase pretty quickly.

 

[teachdocs]

You will probably be fine even without the chains.
The blower will remove deeper snow before the turfs ever see it.
Turfs are usually only a problem in deeper snows since the cleats fill up and don't self clean as well as the Ags.

We don't get a lot of deep snows in Kansas City, but I never had problems pushing a blade with 8-10 inches of snow using Turfs. The snowblower should make it even easier.

Bet you can't wait for the first big snowfall.
Have fun!

 

[goaliedad]

not familiar with your exact tractor- I have an old kubota L175 with loaded turf tires, chains and front blower. I have one steep hill that gives me trouble if it ice's up at all. Rather than spend the money on loading tires I would suggest you invest in a back blade- it is alot faster for light fluffy snow- and would give you some weight on the rear. I blade mine to one side of the drive then blow the windrow.

I bought a cheap TSC blade, and found it did not have enough weight to keep it digging in good. I picked up some bar-bell weights at a thrift store and rigged a bar on the frame work of the blade- cheap fix.

enjoy!

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Car,

I hope you have a cab for your tractor/blower, 1000' is a lot of seat time in blowing snow. You will learn real quick to direct the snow the same way it is blowing. You do not want to blow into the wind, unless you like being a snowman.

As far a chains and loading, I would try 4wd, I do not think you will have a problem. With a paved driveway the blower cab rest on the pavement, thus not taking the weight off the rear tires. If not, a weight box works great on the 3 point. If you have a FEL a weight box is a must and or a heavy impliment on the 3pt. Filling the tires on a BX only adds about 80 lbs to each tire. Weight box with 300 lbs works great.

You will find the handle to turn the blower chute is a pain. A window motor added to the chute makes this real easy.

If you do not have the $$$ this year here is a cab I made for $125 from a golf car cover.

This link has all of the above.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-buying-pricing/87742-kubota-2750c-snoblower-chute-rotation.html

 

[Doc_Bob]

I am a new BX2350 owner. I purchased the unit with the front mount snowblower to handle my driveway.....the driveway is paved, almost 1000 ft long, it has two fairly steep hills, two 90 degree turns, and its own bridge. There is no place to push the snow so the snowblower is essential.

New to snow? All I can say is "TRACTION". Hill + snow = sliding. Take it easy, have fun and you might need another set of chains. Then, remember, soft snow can actually give you some traction. If you get a layer of ice, chains are even nicer to have.
Bob

 

[AMR]

I live on a hill in western CT and we can get some pretty good snow. Last winter I plowed my 500' long driveway with two 90 degree turns and a 15% grade with my BX23 and turfs (no chains just 4wd) with no problem. I bet that the blower/turf combo would be even better, the issue I found frequently was that when I got a good full blade of snow I would lose the ability to steer and had to push the snow off the side of the driveway and start up again. You shouldn't have issues like that with the blower.

 

[lawn_king]

I have never had severe traction problems with turf tires. I base this on owning/operating 2 kubota tractors w/ kubota front snowblowers, blowing snow commercially. You should be all set. The evolution of kubota snowblowers is producing better & better machines. My 1st unit, B2650 needed some custom welding to beef up for commercial use. Our new unit B2782 seems to be ready for commercial use. Sea trials coming with the first serious snowfall.

 

[AceDeuce]

I live in Northern VA. We don't typically get a lot of snow here, but what we do get is usually heavy and wet. I use a 5' back blade on my 200' gravel drive and my neighbors 1000'+ gravel drive. I rarely have problems, even going uphill through a tight dogleg curve. Of course, I'm in 4WD the entire time and have AG tires.

 

[techman]

You will be fine. You may lose front traction at times, but that happens no matter what with the snow blower. The blower will provide more weight than any additional weights you might add.

Seconding a comment earlier, a cab is very, very nice to have. I got a Sears brand 3 sided vinyl cab and driller a few hiles and adapted it to my BX22. My drive is 2200', and before the Kubota, I blew snow with my old tractor without a cab. The blower will throw up enough snow that with any wind you will be snow encrusted. So invest in a cab. Some posters here have modified a golf cart cover from Northern Tool. There are many options but for sure try to get one.

paul

 

[m7040]

Just got an FEL mounted 8 ft snow plow this year so I am looking forward to see how effective this will work in snow. Hope to not have to use chains but plan to attach an old woods cutter in the back as ballast in addition to the liquid filled tires. One issue may be when angling the plow is that the front of the tractor may push the front wheels over to the side. Not sure if I should get chains for the front wheels to prevent that. Any comments out there?

 

[lawn_king]

Go easy there m7040. If you slam a hazzard hard enough, you will tweek a loader arm! It's happend to members here!

 

[m7040]

assumed that the trip spring devices would protect in case of obstructions but may be it can happen anyway?

 

[carrsw1]

Thanks to all for your advice.

 

[Dusty]

The BX with loaded rear tires should handle all the snow that you will encounter without problems. Just remember that the wet snow will build up in the chute and clog it. NEVER put your hand into the chute, even if the machine is off. There can be a lot of tension on the rotating parts and they can move when you remove the obstruction. Always use a paddle or some other device to reach into the chute. Also keep a good supply of shear pins on hand, because you will break at least one every time you blow snow. If you break the shear pin on the second stage auger, they can be a bear to locate in the shaft. Don't forget to get a few of these shear pins also. I spray the augers, box and chute with vegetable spray to lube everything before using the machine. Also, don't forget to occasionally grease the drive shaft of the snowblower. In heavy wet snow, go slow and take half bites. It is a lot easier than trying to clear the chute. Make sure that when you are done, that you remove all the snow from the blower, because if it partially melts and then refreezes, you will have ice to deal with. As the snow moves through the chute, the friction will warm the chute and this warmed metal will also tend to cause the snow to build up on it. . Also, the drive chain on the blower will need to be lubricated. Check with your local motorcycle dealer to get a good lubricant for the chain. The chain is manufactured to a metric standard, so repair links are not easily obtained. Also, adjust the shoes at the bottom to hold the cutting edge off the driveway about 1/16 - 1/8 inch. You don't want to be buying a new cutting edge every year and that little bit of snow will be gone quickly. One thing about NE snow storms, is that once they end, the next day the sun is out brightly and starts the melting process. Until you get used to using a snow blower, you would be best off to check it every 15 -30 minutes until you are familiar with the characteristics of the machine. Dusty

 

[Stoweski]

Just to add one possible tip regarding the clogging chute. I used veggie oil, HD silicone spray, and a multitude of other oils to try and stop the clogging... Nothing has worked for me. As I was searching for snowblower related threads on here I came across someone's tip to use butcher block wax. They say it will last all season and it works very well. After dealing with clogged chutes on numerous occasions last year (and getting very frustrated in the process) I decided to buy some of this paste wax. There are a few different kinds but they're all the same thing. SC Johnson makes a Paste Wax but bowling alley wax and butcher block wax are similar.
I figured if it's been tried and it works maybe this is the solution that I'm looking for since I'm running out of options. Already put it on my snowblowers. I'll let you know how it works as soon as we get dumped on.

Keith
Kubota B7610

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

I have had no problem with snow clogging the chute of the BX blower in 2 seasons of use. I may be lucky but I have not sheered a pin on the blower. BUT I only use it on paved driveways.