Snow removal with a 3 pt blade
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CalG
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What's the trick to using a blade to cast the snow in the desired direction without needing to reset the angle?
Keep the sway chains a bit slack, and then when the blade engages the snow the blade will push the frame off to the extent of the sway chain, giving the blade just enough angle to send the snow where you want it. And that could be either right or left. This of course applies when the blade is set square to begin with.
One pass down the gut without a care as to how the snow is rolling off.
Then a pass rolling the snow left, then a pass rolling the snow right. (in my case, it's four passes to the right ;-)
Keep the sway chains a bit slack, and then when the blade engages the snow the blade will push the frame off to the extent of the sway chain, giving the blade just enough angle to send the snow where you want it. And that could be either right or left. This of course applies when the blade is set square to begin with.
One pass down the gut without a care as to how the snow is rolling off.
Then a pass rolling the snow left, then a pass rolling the snow right. (in my case, it's four passes to the right ;-)
s219
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It needs to be at least 1.15 X the width of the rear tires, so that it will cover your tracks when angled. I wouldn't cut it down without some measurements first, and then not until using it for a few times. May be just fine.
SLIMSHADIE
Silver Member
bjorn I have a buddy that lives up there, Skip Myers. I visit him now and then.
Anyways with the rear blade, at the most angle it should cover you tire tracks. You may even want it a tad wider if you ever have install rear tire spacers or you have reversible rims for extra width. Dont know if your model actually does that.
I can also completely swing my blade around-180 degress if and when needed, rarely, but nice.
You could carefully measure and make your marks, but use it awhile to see where you stand before cutting it down. Then give it a nice coat of orange paint!
Billrog
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CaIG if the arm the blade is attached to when level to the ground it will be level regardless which side you plow to. It has to be level when the blade is resting on the ground or very close to it.
RaydaKub
Veteran Member
I would keep it at 8 for now. Give it a try. With the 8 footer, you could have a much steeper angle on it to help it scour the snow better. With the steep angle, you could let it clear only 6 feet of width. You can always cut it down later.
varmint
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bjorn, I would guess that after you use it in a real snow, you'll find that the wide blade will push the tractor to the side when a load of snow gets built up. Using rear chains will be a big help (sorry if I am repeating someone's earlier advice) in controlling that- and providing traction in snow.
You can always cut it down later. I suppose you could always weld the cutoffs back on, as far as that goes. I found that my biggest problem with a rear blade was leveling it for sloped or crowned surfaces- now, our front plow floats from side to side, and is heavy enough to follow the surface, so no problem.
You can always cut it down later. I suppose you could always weld the cutoffs back on, as far as that goes. I found that my biggest problem with a rear blade was leveling it for sloped or crowned surfaces- now, our front plow floats from side to side, and is heavy enough to follow the surface, so no problem.
s219
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That finally prompted me to install my hydraulic side link.
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
I plowed for years with my old truck and it wreaks havoc on the undercarriage, rusts out every line and the body/frame. I gave up commercial plowing so don't really even put the plow on anymore. The snowblower has done fine for this year with the minimal snow we've had. Honestly, it's probably more about using my new toy(tractor) than anything.
