Snow chains, too close to the body

[greenrider1]

I wish I had seen this thread back in '17 I would have told you to swap tires side to side for wider stance but you obviously got it figured out. I run OFA Eko studded chains and they're designed to be run loose, so you shouldn't need the bungees. You should be able to fit your fist behind the side chain and tire when you pull it away from tire. When installing, I jack up the back of the tractor and rotate each tire by hand to pull the chain on. This works for me and makes it a simple 1 man job. Takes about 20 min for both sides. I'd check your manual for lug nut torque. I'm assuming you didn't have them tight enough since they came loose. There's no need for lock nuts when properly torqued, driven and retorqued. Enjoy the extra traction!

 

[Komrade]

I had trouble lifting the chain that high.. I can jack up the tractor with outriggers, I did this time, and we "threw" the chains on than rotated for tightening.. I could try to roll them onto tire, I am sure somebody figure out how to do that easy.

Will research the chain, but I am not sure I'd like that thing flapping around.

Off for the bolt hunt.

 

[Torvy]

Why would a tractor manufacturer make a tractor you can't put chains on?

I know this is an old post, but some people live in places that don't need chains. Maybe a better question is why would someone who lives where chains are necessary buy a tractor that cannot use them? Probably money.

 

[Komrade]

Off for the bolt hunt.

neighbor saved a trip and put trator back in service. Shall get permanent replacement and a spare when i go that way.

 

[PILOON]

Re 'spacers':
My CUT is a Mitsubishi and I'd sure like to find spacers as it is very narrow.
I'm OK with my chains but even with rims reversed it is still too narrow to my liking.

Problem I've found is all the extender makers always refer to the vehicle and not to the proper rim designation, that or they don't have the actual specs manuals.
Like I know my rear rims are "W8X18" and fronts '5JAX12'

I guess they simply measure a given rim and machine from there on.
They always ask what year make of car.

Most have promised to machine a set but request I send them a rim so they can measure a fit.
Heck I'd be ahead by simply buying a new tractor when you consider removing and dismounting the tire, crating and shipping both ways and never mind labor and time lost.

I may be frugal but not stupid.

 

[greenrider1]

I had trouble lifting the chain that high.. I can jack up the tractor with outriggers, I did this time, and we "threw" the chains on than rotated for tightening.. I could try to roll them onto tire, I am sure somebody figure out how to do that easy.

Will research the chain, but I am not sure I'd like that thing flapping around.

Off for the bolt hunt.

My chains came with a section of rope to tie to the chain and loop over the tire lugs, but I didn't bother using it. Some prefer to "drive" them on but I found it's easier to jack the rear up and rotate the tire by hand, so I can guide the chain on straight. With the recommended slack it doesn't flop around and the outer tensioner chains stay tight to the tire. Where you'll see the slack will be at the bottom leading side of the tire, depending on which way it's rotating. There's a good thread somewhere on here with pics. I'll see if I can find it.

 

[greenrider1]

This short video shows the installation and proper tensioning for european style chains.

 

[Torvy]

This short video shows the installation and proper tensioning for european style chains.

Do they work on American style snow?

 

[Citydude]

neighbor saved a trip and put trator back in service. Shall get permanent replacement and a spare when i go that way.

View attachment 729679

Do yourself a favor and put blue loctight on the bolt threads.

 

[Komrade]

Re 'spacers':


Most have promised to machine a set but request I send them a rim so they can measure a fit.

I'd take off the rim, secure a piece of cardboard to the center, and make a paper template that you could scan or mail.