Snow Snow blower operation questions

[Balerguy2]

Tractorwookie,

I did some Googling and found a link for you to look at. You may have a Branson tractor that DOES have a double or triple speed rear pto. Gotta be kinda rare here but maybe that might be the reason your not getting the snow lofted like it should.

TractorData.com Branson 5530R tractor information

Since no Branson guru has jumped in here and snow is flying ya need a manual for your tractor and the blower. Or figure how to safely shift that pto into the higher rpm range.

Good luck!

 

[tractorwookie]

Is there any other way to increase the power out of this thing. Because we have it running at 1080 pto rpm and at 2500 engine rpm it still bogs up and clogs. Where as our 42hp doesn't bog and clog. It shoots the snow further and everything. We tensioned up the chain to the auger and that helped a bit. Is it a general rule that pot driven snow blowers have more power than hydraulically powered snow blowers?

 

[Balerguy2]

tractorwookie,

1) Does your hydraulic motor attach directly to the drive shaft of your front snow blower.......................... or, does it attach and drive via sprocket & chain?

2) Do you know if this setup had "issues" before you bought it?

3) Do you positively know what rpm your blower is supposed to be running at? Ya need the manual or post its name and model number on here so somebody can comment the specs.

4) Does your blower have 2 stages.................... ie an auger that brings the snow to the center and then a 3 or 4 blade geared ducted propeller to heist the snow up and out the chute?

Hydraulically driven Snow Blowers can be just as big as mechanical PTO blowers. By the way PTO's themselves are either hydraulically driven or mechanically driven. My case years ago I drove this same blower via a rear PTO from an IH 444 and that was a mechanical independent rear PTO. Maybe 20 years ago I used the same blower on my Skid-Loader front with a 4 cyl. pony engine................. then, rear mount, PTO the last 10 years or so on my L4610 Kubota. I just got tired of rear mount so I relocated that same blower up front and drive it via a hydraulic motor. You cannot tell the difference in all these "drive methods". It'll will blow snow and never clog or bog. I commonly use 3 rd gear (GST) trans and that is 3.0 mph and run just over 500 rpm on the motor (the rear pump is turning about 470 or less).

 

[robstaples]

I have a front mount hydraulic snowblower on a Kubota L39. I started with the front fel hydraulic tap and added rear PTO pump to get more oil volume. Get the motor spec and find the displacement and the same for the pump. My Loftness blower (60") wanted about 15 gal per min. My pump does 20 gpm at 540 rpm so I run a little light throttle. With the spec on the two ends , you can figure how it should run. Dirty filter, weak pump might be issues. I can help more with the motor pump spec if you want. What's the diameter of the second stage? From that I can estimate desired rpm

 

[grsthegreat]

Is there any other way to increase the power out of this thing. Because we have it running at 1080 pto rpm and at 2500 engine rpm it still bogs up and clogs. Where as our 42hp doesn't bog and clog. It shoots the snow further and everything. We tensioned up the chain to the auger and that helped a bit. Is it a general rule that pot driven snow blowers have more power than hydraulically powered snow blowers?

well all i can tell you is my hydraulic blower shoots the snow as far as my old PTO driven unit after i got the pressure regulator adjusted properly. It even blasts wet snow a great distance. Ive only had 2 clogged chute issues and they were my fault for not letting the unit clear itself before i shut off the pump.

I do believe the hydraulic unit will have less efficiency than a direct PTO unit, but it shouldnt be clogging. Could be issues with the PTO pump itself. might need to have that looked at. Mine runs at 540 rpm and puts out 15 GPM at 3,000 psi.

youd probably need some gauges and some more knowledge of hydraulic pumps than i do to figure out the output on your system. If the seals are shot on your pump it could be the reason for poor performance.

i also use ISO22 fluids that have a rating for sever cold, and i preheat my tank for an hour before operating it (on timer). If the fluids your running are too cold, that could be an issue also.

 

[tractorwookie]

Sorry for the late reply, I have been very busy for the last month and havent had much time for repairs or anything. That being said I am now trying to get back on track and solve these issues. The next chance I get I am going to take pictures of my setup and post them here. I will get my brother to gather the manuals so I can post what spes they do have since it is a custom build.

 

[tractorwookie]

Balerguy2,

Sorry for my late reply

I have been trying to gather more information for you, For starters here is the tractor
TractorData.com Branson 6530C tractor information

the hydraulic motor Attaches to the gearbox by a dual sprocket piece (at the front)


the gearbox drives a shaft that runs along to a sprocket with a chain and a tensioner that drives the main auger.
I believe one of the output shafts on the gearbox drives the fan as well.

Unfortunately I do not know if the setup had any previous issues, The previous owner did take great care of his equipment. But I will be talking with him.

The Manual on the snow blower says that the pto rpm should be 540, however the manual is for this snow blower, before its customization and conversion to hydraulics. The previous owner did have it 1080 rpm, and was told to keep it at that.

The snow blower does have 2 stages, the main auger pulls the snow into the fan and is then driven up and out of the shoot.

The snow blower was made by smyth welding and it is a 78-sh which isn't on the site, the closest one is the 78-s but that is a rear mount snow blower and mine has been customized.

if need be I can take more photos the next time I have the tractor out, for now here are some of the reservoir tank (which is approximately half full) and the only gauge on it which is attached to the intank filter.

In the picture with the hydraulic lines, the pipe/line with the yellow handle is the input to the pump. the output comes out of the right side of the pump and goes to the pressure relief valve then continues along to the motor, and the return line comes back between the input to the pump and goes up the side of the reservoir with the pressure relief bypass.

 

[tractorwookie]

Fergy,
Would this still apply to my hydraulic set up, because I can turn them both but i figured it was because its not trying to turn the pto. and could the auger still spin while powered on if the shear pins where broken?

 

[grsthegreat]

Balerguy2,


View attachment 363538View attachment 363539View attachment 363540View attachment 363541
.

i cant get the pics to open

 

[tractorwookie]

I just edited try again