I've got a 5hp briggs on a tiller that seems like it's not getting fuel from the tank. It will run if you put a little in the carb, but dies when that runs out. I just bought the motor used, but it looks like it was hardly ever used. The guy said it had been sitting for a while. I tried seafoam and carb cleaner (maybe not enough). Anyone got any other ideas? Thank you...
Small engine won't keep running
- Thread starter Seth
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If you have a spark plug, that is always a good place to start, if it is fuel starvation usually a little choke will remedy that.
I always add a cap full of Wynn's injector cleaner to 5 gallons fuel, in all the fuel used in my air cooled motors.
I have to go but have a book if you can post the model number, I can give you the specs, you may need a new diaphragm also.
I always add a cap full of Wynn's injector cleaner to 5 gallons fuel, in all the fuel used in my air cooled motors.
I have to go but have a book if you can post the model number, I can give you the specs, you may need a new diaphragm also.
Thomas
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Is there in line fuel filter..may need changing.
Can you blow air in gas line back thru gas tank..maybe junk/dirt etc.
Can you blow air in gas line back thru gas tank..maybe junk/dirt etc.
imgone52
Gold Member
You can also check for the "Gel" that builds up in the carb thanks to the Ethonol in todays' unleaded gas. It may require pulling the carb off for a good bath in the cleaning tank.
There aren't any fuel lines or filter, the carb sits on top of the tank. It seems like the pick up that is down in the tank may be gummed up.
I tried a different spark plug (an old one that you wouldn't expect to work) and it behaved the same way. Put a little fuel in the carb and it will run until that is gone.
I'll try to post the model number tomorrow.
I tried a different spark plug (an old one that you wouldn't expect to work) and it behaved the same way. Put a little fuel in the carb and it will run until that is gone.
I'll try to post the model number tomorrow.
Soundguy
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check the float valve... smal engines are bad about sticking float valves.. especially the cheap carbs on brigs...
I'm not sure I can id the float valve. I'll have to look into that. Did I mention I'm more of an assembler than a mechanic? I'd be the guy at the dealership putting wheels on the new stuff, maybe changing teeth on a hay rake.
Soundguy
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follow the gas line fromthe tank to somehting about the size of yer hand, bolted to the engine... the bottom of it likely has a lil metal bowl.. maybee 3oz, probably has a screw/retainer in the bottom holding it on.. remove that.. there will be a gasket.
in there is a lil float and a needle valve... they gum up and stick.. usually closed.. thus starvingthe engine of fuel.
if the gasket lives, a qtip and can of carb spray with a red straw usually fixes it..and you can reuse the gasket.
I got good at rebuilding brigs carbs...
in there is a lil float and a needle valve... they gum up and stick.. usually closed.. thus starvingthe engine of fuel.
if the gasket lives, a qtip and can of carb spray with a red straw usually fixes it..and you can reuse the gasket.
I got good at rebuilding brigs carbs...
Artisan
Veteran Member
Post up pics! Forget serial nmbers, well...they good but clear pictures may help someone tell you what to do. Soundguy is a pro!
Dana Warner
Bronze Member
Don't waste your time looking for the float there is none on a suction carb. There should be a diaphragm on the side of the carb that must be in good condition to pump. There are also 2 pick-up tubes that extend into the tank the tube gum up if left with fuel in the tank. Model and type numbers would identify the engine and carb.
Travelover
Elite Member
There is a brass pick up tube with a screen on the bottom. Sometimes that screen is plugged. There is a depression in the top of the tank that acts as a fuel bowl. May be water and dirt there, too.
You probably need to disassemble it , blow everything out and reassemble it.
You probably need to disassemble it , blow everything out and reassemble it.
Soundguy
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5p huh? like a pulsa jet?
mine were all 7-8hp an up.. might be the difference I KNOW for a fact they have float needles...
mine were all 7-8hp an up.. might be the difference I KNOW for a fact they have float needles...
tractchores
Veteran Member
I would check the carb and fuel system. Gummed up jets are common and can be cleaned with a piece of wire from a grill brush. You should be able to go step by step and verify fuel at each step. I would also use fresh gas.
mostly_gas
Super Member
If the carb is on the fuel tank it is a variation of the Pulsa-jet. If the diaphram is in good shape and pick up tubes are not plugged then there is a little washer/gasket that will help. Goes around one of the pick up tubes (long one I think) any who sells B&S parts will know about it and tell you where to put it.
David_Kb7uns
Veteran Member
Two stage carb, the fuel pump pumps fuel up to small tank that the carb sucks out of. The ethanol takes out the diaphram and it softens and stretches so it does not pump. Briggs makes a kit that has rubber piece, spring and spring cup. Take off side plate and replace, might just spray some carb cleaner through passages also.
Look for Briggs kit 5021
Briggs and Stratton 2-5hp Horiz Carburetor Kit By Briggs & Stratton - Reviews & Prices @ Yahoo! Shopping
David Kb7uns
Look for Briggs kit 5021
Briggs and Stratton 2-5hp Horiz Carburetor Kit By Briggs & Stratton - Reviews & Prices @ Yahoo! Shopping
David Kb7uns
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I've had two lawn mowers with plastic gas caps that prevented air from entering the gas tank. Both would run great for awhile, depending on the fuel level, before they sputtered and quit.
Soundguy
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makes sense.. I don't mess withthe 0-6hp units much.. but have seent he diagrams for the p/j.. can for sure see where a bad diaphragm would do it in.. etc..
good luck to the op.
good luck to the op.
Ok, I finally got a chance to fool with it. I took the carb off, hosed everything down with carb cleaner and it runs now. Now that it's running I have no throttle control so it just idles. I have the linkages from the old one I can put on it, but I have no idea how it was put together. Any chance one of you can take a picture of a similar set up? I've looked on google images but couldn't find anything I could use.
Thanks you all very much for your help.
Thanks you all very much for your help.
crazyal
Super Member
I think your engine has a self governing system. On that last picture there's a plate that should rotate, it has a rod and a spring going to it. The rod goes to an air vane that as the engine revs up it closes the throttle (slows it down). The spring should try to open the throttle and speed it up. The screw set the idle speed. The lower lever on the front could be just a kill switch or it could also control the speed by trying to counter act the engine air vane.
With the engine not running and the lower lever pushed all the way to the right (on) that plate on top of the engine should be turned as far clockwise (looking form the top) as it can, throttle wide open. If not you probably have the linkage incorrect. Also since it hasn't ran in some time check to make sure that everything is free and loose. Also if the lower lever does control the speed it could use a spring to counter the force of the air on the vane, check to make sure it feels like it's trying to pull the linkage in a way that will open the throttle. To see the vane you may need to remove the pull starter cover.
With the engine not running and the lower lever pushed all the way to the right (on) that plate on top of the engine should be turned as far clockwise (looking form the top) as it can, throttle wide open. If not you probably have the linkage incorrect. Also since it hasn't ran in some time check to make sure that everything is free and loose. Also if the lower lever does control the speed it could use a spring to counter the force of the air on the vane, check to make sure it feels like it's trying to pull the linkage in a way that will open the throttle. To see the vane you may need to remove the pull starter cover.
