Skidding firewood logs?

[MrGreene]

I have burned firewood for twenty years. I still love to down trees and split . I use both methods for skidding, tongs or chains. I am very careful, I go very slow and always try to be aware of my surroundings. Never had a close call. Cannot say that about the chainsaw, but that is for another thread.
Be Careful!!!!!!!!!!!!!

MrGreene

Beer is the cornerstone of mankind

 

[Tom4310]

There is another post going on right now about which size chain to use for skidding logs. I use chokers (small picture attched) from an outfit called Bailey's. Below is the current post and my reply.

Which size chains for skidding logs.

Skidding logs will get the log dirty and rutt up the road. I think it is ok to lift medium size logs with the 3PH but I wouldn't recommend large logs.

 

[winchman]

Penokee,

I made an attachment to skid logs and treetops. I think it allows me to get most of my horsepower to the ground and enables me to work effciently. I will call it my "skid-lift". It attaches to the tractor like any 3-point implement. It is basically a square frame with two receiver hitch tubes welded in the center of the square frame, one in line with lower arms and the other just underneath where the toplink attaches. The bottom receiver is used for pulling my trailer, but is removed for skidding. I have a T-bar which slides into the top receiver tube. The top of the "T" consists of 3/8" angle iron with slots cut every 6 inches on one leg. The angle is welded on top of a 1.0x2.5" bar. The slots will accommodate 5/16 or 3/8" chain. Now, I hope you can visualize the "T-bar" laying flat, slid into the top receiver with the top of the "T" running parallel to your rear axle. The top "T" sticks out about 10" from the square frame allowing you to back up and lower the skid-lift with "T-bar" over the end of the log giving you a short hook-up. A short hook-up is critical if you want to utilize the full range of your 3-point lift. That is another reason I prefer chain chokers. No matter what diameter the log is, you can get a short hook-up. Cable chokers don't give you this versatility. The slotted "T-bar" is 24" long and I have had 4 different treetop sections hooked to it at once, that alone would rule out the i-match and tongs for me, unless you had a very short distance to the landing.

When I go to the woods I have my loader on, 240lbs. of weights on my grill guard and rear chained R4s. I will warn you that my front-end does get light and I occaisionally have to use the brakes to steer. You have to take it slow and be aware of the terrain ahead.

If I were you I would go to your local welder and have him make a "skid-lift" of some sort. I forgot to mention mine has a steel mesh bottomed box on the top that holds my saw,gas & oil, chains.. This could be made for $250 or less at a welding shop.

winchman

 

[beenthere]

Sounds like a great attachment. Hope you can get a picture posted of your design.
With smaller logs I have on several occasions (usually don't drag out small logs, but instead cut them 60" long, and load them on my pallet forks and bring them out that way, and afterwards buck them to three 20-inch long blocks) chained them together and hooked the chain(s) to the iMatch. Lots of ways to skin that 'cat' to get logs snaked out of the woods and keep them reasonably free of dirt.
Carrying equipment, chains and the like, into the woods is always in need of some good ideas such as yours. The last tractor I had, I put two plywood platforms on both sides of the engine between the front and back wheels. Loaded spare chains, chainsaw, gas, wedges, etc. on to haul back and forth. Lasted for many years of woods work, even though it was a quick-n-dirty cobbled-up job. The tractor I have now with the FEL doesn't have room for such a rig. Trying to come up with something that is handy.

 

[Buckee]

Even though some in this thread have done so successfully, I am dead against pulling/lifting anything heavy directly from the top link. Built a log lifter today from my EZ Mover 3 pt receiver hitch - just added the hook & a reinforcing gusset. Moves the lift point 6 inches below the toplink. Not appropriate for the biggest lifts, but good for most of what's on my 14 acres. Anybody tried this? Thanks for all the ideas & tips in here - Buckee

 

[beenthere]

That should work for you. Thanks for the pic. You will be pulling from that hook as well as lifting, so I'm not sure you won't pull the grab hook apart. But if so, you can just weld a bigger hook in its place.

Now, what is the distance you ended up with between the lower arm hookups and the hook you welded on (or between the receiver and the hook)?

 

[Egon]

The one I made is the same principle.

Egon

 

[beenthere]

Egon
Better to have that grab hook loose to 'swivel' like you have, for adjusting to the direction of pull (and lift).

 

[Varmintmist]

You guys ever hear of a drawbar????

IMHO, most of the pics here have the weight way to high. If you ever stand one up, that will be your opinion also.

When I skid, I skid from the drawbar, or the 3pt just as low as I can get it.

I tried a different tact recently. I drag my 5x8 trailer with me. It has 3 foot + sides. I drop the trailer, cut to lenth and put it in the bucket and dump in the trailer. Once its loaded About 4-5 buckets, I hook up to the trailer and take it back to the pile. Seems to work pretty good. I was using the carryall but with the new tractor, 1 carry all load isnt loading the machine at all so I went bigger.

I also dont get a pile of poles to have to tear apart or mud on the logs.

About the only time I skid is to get them to where I can work on them, not all the way into the wood pile.

 

[winchman]

Beenthere,

After Christmas I will be purchasing a digital camera and then I will make a post about my "skid lift". I will include pictures of it and how I utilize it. I have read many of your posts and know you would appreciate the thought that I put into it. Actually my original idea came from a picture of the one that you used to use before you got your i-match. I just added my ideas to your basic hitch. I really like this attachment and what it enables me and my tractor to do. I hear you about finding a place to carry the saw and other stuff. It is tuff to design something that does not limit visibility, yet is still convenient.

winchman

 

[Egon]

Got a small tractor. Nead the weight for traction. Got the bucket full of rocks too.

Egon

 

[Tom4310]

Check out the other post for pics of a choker I use to skid logs. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Other post regarding skidding logs

 

[penokee]

winchman

Appreciate your comments along with the others. Look forward to pictures of the attachment you made.

penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[winchman]

IMHO, if you intend to use the tractors 3-point lift to lift the log I would not use cable chokers. You will not be able to get a short enough hook-up to utilize the tractors full range of lift. Cable chokers are fine for actual log skidders and 3-point mounted logging winches because a short hook-up is not that critical. I also find that chain chokers are easier to store on the tractor when you are going back for your next pull. I use what I'll call a "poor man's choker" which consists of a 6' to 7' piece of chain with a slip-hook on one end, easily purchased at any hardware store. A better way to make them up would be to buy square link chain and an actual choker slip-hook sold by logging suppliers. The square link chain will dig into the log better and will have less chance of slipping off. Well, that is my plug for chain chokers for your intended use. They would be better from my past experiences.

winchman

 

[penokee]

winchman
Thanks for the info. Plan to look into the chain chokers. I Use the cable chokers to skid logs with my AC H3 crawler, guess I never really thought it thru about lifting/skidding with my L3130. Got more homework to do.
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif