I considered building the PTO power pack myself, and might have tried if I hadn't found this used package. But in hind sight I'm glad I didn't. The tank alone would be a lot of work to build with multiple ports, a sight gauge, fill port and strainer, and return filter. Plus the mounting brackets for the 3PH. The mounting brackets on the Erskine unit can also accept rear suitcase weights which I gather is needed with some tractors to counteract the weight of the snow blower. I also discovered while repairing my pump that the PTO reduction gear plus pumps is quite an expensive part at around $3000 for the package. The replacement pump was along was $850. So I doubt you would save much money, but if availability forces you to build your own, then you do what you need to do.
The whole rig is long, but I haven't found the power pack to be a problem so far. You need to be aware of it, but I think the biggest issue is backing into a snow bank and bending the stand legs. I leave the legs in their down position for convenience, and you could gain some ground clearance if you raised them up.
Going wider with the tank is certainly an option an d would reduce the length of the rig. But I think there is a trade off when it comes to mounting the pump. So let's talk about installation and removal of the pump first.
I actually don't find the pump too bad to install. I would guess mine weighs 30-50lbs. Definitely not 80 lbs, but it appears that Erskine is now using a different pump/gear package that is heavier than mine. I have found a few things that ease handling it.
- I installed a length of chain to the pump, plus a hook, and a bolt centered on the chain. The hook let's me hang the pump from the top link pin when the power pack is removed from the tractor. Without it, the pump will be dragging on the floor. And the bolt acts as a T-handle that I can use to more easily lift and move the pump around to install/remove. The picture below shows this, but doesn't include the t-handle bolt.
- When installing the pump, I pull the draw bar out as far as possible. I can then hook the pump over it and use it to take the weight of the pump as I get it worked into position. Then once in position, it's one short lift to get it onto the PTO shaft. Then I slide the draw bar into it's final position and pin it. Removal is the reverse.
- I install the pump with the tank generally in the right position, but pulled back and turned off to one side a bit. This gives good access to the PTO while still having the tank close enough so the hoses can reach. The trick is to have the tank on a dolly of some sort so you can wheel it around.
I don't think quick connects will be practical for the pump. The suction line is 1-1/2" hose, so it would be a very big quick connect. I would also be concerned about any added flow restriction on the suction line. On the pressure line, you could use a quick connect (it's a 3/4" line), but with the added danger of a blow out if the coupler ever became disconnected since there would no longer be a pressure relief valve in action. Personally, I wouldn't do it.
Now getting back to the tank shape, you could certainly play around with that. I think I'd go up before I'd go wider, just so it doesn't encroach on the space needed to install and remove the pump.
Another thing to pay a bunch of attention to are the relative displacements and ratios of the blower motors and the pump + step-up gear. At PTO speed, the flow needs to result in the auger and fan operating at sufficient speed to throw the snow far enough. I have no idea what the required speeds are, but you can probably infer it from the various motor and pump sizes used in the Erskine product. Or if you buy a different skid steer blower, look at the required flow rate. I'd target the upper quartile of the flow range. From that you can figure out a pump size for the PTO, taking the step-up gearing into consideration.
Good luck, and keep us posted on how you make out.