Since we all know FEL's are not built for pushing like a dozer . . .
- Thread starter RealJimbo
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accordionman
Gold Member
install a toothbar, and it will preform like a dozer!
this is what i did.
accordionman
wright city, mo. L3000DT
this is what i did.
accordionman
wright city, mo. L3000DT
Renze
Super Member
IndyIan
Veteran Member
Do you have a good heavy box blade already? I've been doing lots of "bulldozer" work with mine and was thinking how annoying it would be just to have a single bulldozer blade... Also without rippers to break up the soil, it doesn't take much of a rock to stop my tractor when I do push with the loader even with Ag's, loaded rear tires and 1100lbs of box blade. All having a dozer blade on the front would do is allow me to carry a bit more speed to help pop the smaller rocks but it would still be a sudden stop on big ones.
familyman
Platinum Member
Careful now. The 3-pt. is not designed to push. It is designed to pull.
sodamo
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RealJimbo said:
A number of us have adapted a 3 pt quick hitch to a quick attach plate. As you see in my pic, this makes mounting a rake very convenience. I suspect a 3 pt blade would mount as well (I don't have one).
David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
While I agree with that statement, what I envision would still be 'pulling' from the 3pth lower arms. Pushing with the arms is what people do that push with the box blade/back blade/rake.:thumbdown:
My thinking is that the 'arms' of the front blade eith mount to the rear axle, or go all the way under the tractor and attach to the 3pth lower arms.
The Degelman is what I have in mind, but BIY and possibly a flat moldboard for dirt, instead of curved for snow.
Don87
Elite Member
None are flat, they are all curved to a degree.
A flat blade will stop you dead in about 6 to 8 feet, due to the dirt piling up and compacting. A curved blade will roll the dirt(or snow) out in front of you. Snowblades are curved more to allow 'throwing' of the snow.
Zebrafive
Super Member
John Deere sells/sold one that the back mounted to the front end of the drawbar. IIRC it was model 624 and 8' or 9' wide, had mounts from the front frame area and cylinders to lift it. Angle was manual.
dirt clod
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Some fel are designed for pushing. My 214s jcb has a 6n1 bucket. Factory designed bucket to be used as a push blade when the bucket is opened the rear is shaped to push. Can really tell a difference when trying to push with the bucket closed and pushing with bucket open. the inside rear of bucket is designed like a dozer blade to roll dirt. I think the problem with pushing with the fel is not due to the fel but rather the design of the bucket is what makes it a problem. When you try to push the bucket trys to hook into dirt rather than roll or push. A dozer blade made for a quick release fel mount may not be a bad idea. Pushing with 3 point is a bad idea.
Mike476
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While I agree in principle that pushing with a back blade is not what it was designed for, I don't agree it can never be done.
I've been doing it for several years now to clear my driveway and subdivision of snow. Like anything it's operating within the limitations of the equipment. Would I back blade a mound of gravel flat or break ground pushing a box blade using this method, certainly not.
I've been doing it for several years now to clear my driveway and subdivision of snow. Like anything it's operating within the limitations of the equipment. Would I back blade a mound of gravel flat or break ground pushing a box blade using this method, certainly not.
Rio_Grande
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Farmer down the road from us has a medium sized JD tractor that appears to have a factory dozer blade that goes all the way to the back end and has hydraulic rams that lift it up and down. Appears to have manual tilt.
I haven't designed or built one but aside from the weight and traction issues here are my thoughts...
The 3 pt should only have tension loads on it. Heavy backblading will load it in compression. I would take the 3 pt arms off and pin to their mounting points on the tranny housing.
I would consider a cable operated lift in the front powered by the 3 pt lift cylinder. You should rig it with some heavy steel cable.
Make the front blade pivot left and right to reduce the needed pushing force by about 30%.
Build a heavy duty guide system to keep the blade centered between the front wheels. I'd consider a track bar arrangement tied into the loader arm mounts if possible.
Make the blade too heavy to lift by hand so it can do some work. You will gain more tractive effort if you make the entire assembly as heavy as possible. Consider a lever style stand like they use on sport bikes at the race track or the big levers with wheels for open wheel race car tire changes to facilitate hookup to the tractor. A helper will also be useful.
If you want to spend more get some hydraulics to lift it from the front. This will increase down pressure while keeping overall weight down if you work in wet areas regularly.
The 3 pt should only have tension loads on it. Heavy backblading will load it in compression. I would take the 3 pt arms off and pin to their mounting points on the tranny housing.
I would consider a cable operated lift in the front powered by the 3 pt lift cylinder. You should rig it with some heavy steel cable.
Make the front blade pivot left and right to reduce the needed pushing force by about 30%.
Build a heavy duty guide system to keep the blade centered between the front wheels. I'd consider a track bar arrangement tied into the loader arm mounts if possible.
Make the blade too heavy to lift by hand so it can do some work. You will gain more tractive effort if you make the entire assembly as heavy as possible. Consider a lever style stand like they use on sport bikes at the race track or the big levers with wheels for open wheel race car tire changes to facilitate hookup to the tractor. A helper will also be useful.
If you want to spend more get some hydraulics to lift it from the front. This will increase down pressure while keeping overall weight down if you work in wet areas regularly.
Redbug
Veteran Member
I have a 4in1 bucket and open it up all the time to push stuff. The bucket has a blade designed for that kind of thing when you open it up. I also have one of those 3 point quick hitches that attaches to the loader arms. It is very handy, also.
chim
Elite Member
My first tractor was a Cub 154 LoBoy. It had a blade like the one in this OM: It moved material better than a 3PH blade.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Number Series Cubs/Cub-154 Lo-Boy/IH 54 Blade/IH 54 Blade.pdf
Since it used the same rockshaft as the belly mower, it was an either/or with the mower and blade. What a pain! I was always thankful to have all my fingers when I was done swapping attachments. The kids were too small then to help and although the pictures may not look like it, the tangle of bars and steel plates were a bear to do by myself.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Number Series Cubs/Cub-154 Lo-Boy/IH 54 Blade/IH 54 Blade.pdf
Since it used the same rockshaft as the belly mower, it was an either/or with the mower and blade. What a pain! I was always thankful to have all my fingers when I was done swapping attachments. The kids were too small then to help and although the pictures may not look like it, the tangle of bars and steel plates were a bear to do by myself.
Last edited:
Mace Canute
Elite Member
John Deere used to make a front blade that operated with cables ran from the rear 3Pt lift. I have seen one on an old John Deere A.
Taylortractornut
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JD had some nice ones. My freind that sawmills has a big propane Deere with a subframe blade and its handy. He has a friend that helps him that has a smaller diesel JD with a subframe blde as well and its really handy around the place. I dont have powersteering on my 3000 Yanmar. I didnt want to put a loader on it also I have a TLB and skidsteer for loader work. I was at a farm sale and found an older Ford five foot dozer blade with angle on it. Also I have a 49 Cub with a blade. THe blade on it is handy for clearing off the feed pads.
