Either thermothockles or kadiddler bars.
On second glance it seems orezok is correct, right down to the whosurdaddy killawag mounts.
Either thermothockles or kadiddler bars.
This thread has gotten totally out of control while I was occupied elsewhere!!!kubota4me said:How about going the easy route, pick up the phone and call the manufacturer/or US distributor and ask them what they are for? Life is too short to be guessing![]()
Oh no no no Jay... Unfortunately, I am still shopping!!!jbrumberg said:Dougster: We are all remiss; nobody complimented you on your good looking brand new tiller! Use it well and safely. Oh, by the way I use my tire guards to hang my greasy rags when working on my tiller and they also make a good place to dry those washed rags
. Jay
Well, you probably remember the story: I ordered one from TSC in Griswold, CT... but when it came in and I went down to pick it up with cash in hand... I couldn't bring myself to actually purchase it. It was a goopy, rusting, abused mess and the shipping frame/crate was falling apart, making it impossible to get home safely in the dump trailer (after I had called and specifically asked and could have easily brought down the equipment trailer & chains instead of the dump had they simply told the truth).jbrumberg said:Dougster: Every time I go to TSC I always go to their attachment area and I always migrate to their tiller area. The more I look at their KK gear driven model the more it grows on me. It appears that KK (or whoever) put some effort in making this product. I have not read of any complaints that I can remember about the Muratori brand tillers either. Jay
Understood about ripping things up first. In fact, I have been doing so well with my boxblade and rake combo that I sometimes wonder if owning a tiller is really necessary at all... but folks expect me to offer a "true" rotary tilling service and I aim to please... even if I've gotten this far without having to own one.LoneCowboy said:Never use a tiller on virgin soil rip it up first (box blade scarifiers, real scarifiers, plow, whatever). It will work without doing this. for a while but you'll tear the snot out of your tiller, it won't last long. Get a full size, not made in china and go with it. lot easier to only have to make one pass, than two. I can't hink of anyplace where I needed a tiller smaller than my tractor, that it would have worked (and I could have gotten the tractor in) Tire guards??????????? no way, makes zero sense. Maybe they should include a manual on how to set the top link instead, would be cheaper.
I can't possibly go bigger than 72" wide due to transportation issues. 68" would be ideal. And I should clarify that I've been looking mainly at PTO shaft offsetable tillers... with offsets only up to 4" max depending on your PTO, 3-pt, etc... not those true offset machines with the collapsible lateral drives. Turns out that the particular brand & model of that type I was hoping to buy is no longer imported into the USA.MtnViewRanch said:Doug, is it possible to get a full sized tiller that has offset capability, or that is offset? My 102" flail mower is flush with the left side of my tractor and hangs out 24" on the right. Sure works out good for me. Or would that end up being to big of a tiller? 78" or maybe 84"? I don't know, just another alternative for you to think about. Later![]()
Dougster said:But yes, the PTO shaft offset-able machines are available up to 72" (full size for me) and maybe beyond.
Dougster
Well, that would be the most expensive option of all... a cool $2K shipped for the "tire guards" model first pictured above. That's nothing to a rich left-coast ranch owner with 14 different over-sized construction toys... opps, I mean "machines"... but $2K is a ton of money to me right now given everything else I am trying to fix, buy and/or upgrade!MtnViewRanch said:Just my opinion and you know what that is worth,but I would sure be looking at that 72" offset-able tiller if I were in your shoes. Offset-able = good.
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