Shrub Bucket

   / Shrub Bucket #21  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I know this is out of context, but this is how I read it. I'd like to find a piece of pipe like that.
Cliff )</font>
I'm with you Cliff, I've read that line over and over, and finally realized it can't be done! John
 
   / Shrub Bucket #22  
That reminds minds me of an engineer where I worked that dropped a work order off at the tool room. He'd gotten confused when he made the sketch and asked for a 1 inch shaft with a 1/2 inch RADIUS hole down the center of it. The tool room foreman saw the error as he logged it but not in time to catch the engineer. By the time the engineer got back to his desk, his "part" was waiting for him, stapled to the work order. The foreman had gotten a bag and filled it with chips from one of the nearby machines....

I heard this from the foreman, not the engineer. As an engineer myself, I get to hear a lot of stories like this.

John
 
   / Shrub Bucket #23  
John,

I pray to God that neither you nor Cliff are serious.

The entire phrase is <font color="blue"> "get a hunk of pipe with an inner diameter just bigger than the OD of the top of the quick tach bracket" (Italics mine) </font>

Is "Measure the OD of your quick attach bracket and get a piece of pipe the ID of which is slightly larger than that measurement" better?
 
   / Shrub Bucket #24  
They would just have to use a big hammer for custom fit /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Shrub Bucket #25  
Of course I'm joking. Don't we need a little humor now and then? John
 
   / Shrub Bucket #26  
Slowrev Ive been thinking the same way about building one for the 4000 Ford at the landfill I manage. I hate hand diggint the saplings and some of the smaller perinial plants we raise out there in rows for transplanting. Since we dont have a loader on it yet but does have 2 double acting hyd circuits ive been thinking about trying to make one.
Harv about using round pipe for one for your skid steer, There used to be a copmany about an hour from here that made the round syle trenchingand shrub buckets for loaders used 24 inch 3/8ths wall pipe. They had one with an open back that the radius of the pipe stuck down below the quick tach mount to make ditches while going backwards. THey have picures of similar ones on the Bobcat website. From whay ive seen both types work pretty good.
 
   / Shrub Bucket #27  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( John,
I pray to God that neither you nor Cliff are serious. )</font>


That's why I said I knew I was quoting out of context. I just had to read it a second (or third) time because my mind kept putting the comma in the wrong place in the sentence. I understood what the original poster was saying, but my initial reading came up with something that struck me as funny.

This suffixed Army definition of pipe has been floating around the internet for years and I thought of it when I read the post.

Cliff

-----

Army Pipe Specification

All pipe is to be made of a long hole surrounded by metal or plastic centred around the hole.

All pipe is to be hollow throughout the entire length - do not use holes of different length than the pipe.

All acid proof pipe is to be made of acid proof material.

All pipe is to be made of the very best quality, preferably either tubular or pipular.

Gaskets are to be made of metal, rubber, plastic, paper or some kind of goop...Do not use cow or sheep manure, it cracks when it dries.


***The ID (inside diameter) of all pipe must not exceed the OD (outside diameter) - otherwise the hole will be on the outside.

All pipe is to be supplied with nothing in the hole, so that water, steam or other stuff can be put inside at a later date.

All pipe should be supplied without rust; this can be more readily applied at the job site.

All pipe is to be cleaned free of any covering such as mud, tar, barnacles or any form of manure before putting up, otherwise it will make lumps under the paint.

All pipe over 500 ft in length should have the words "LONG PIPE" clearly painted on each side and end, so the contractor will know it's a long pipe.

Pipe over 2 miles in length must also have the words "LONG PIPE" painted in the middle so the contractor will not have to walk the entire length of the pipe to determine whether or not it is a long pipe or a short pipe.

All pipe over 6 ft in diameter must have the words "LARGE PIPE" painted on it, so the contractor will not mistake it for a small pipe.

Flanges must be used on all pipe. Flanges must have holes for bolts, quite separate from the big hole in the middle.

When ordering 90 deg. or 30 deg. elbows, be sure to specify left-hand or right-hand, otherwise you will end up going the wrong way.

Be sure to specify to your vendor whether you want level, uphill or downhill pipe. if you use downhill pipes for going uphill, the water will flow the wrong way.

All couplings should have either right-hand or left-hand threads, but do not mix the threads, otherwise, as the coupling is being screwed on one pipe, it is being unscrewed from the other.

All pipe fittings are to be made of the same stuff as the pipe.

All pipe closers are to be open on one end.

No fittings are to be put on pipe unless specified. If you do, straight pipes become crooked pipes.

All pipes shorter than 1/8 in are very uneconomical in use, requiring many joints. They are generally known as washers.

Joints in pipes for piping water must be water-tight. Those in pipes for compressed air, however, need only be air-tight.

Lengths of pipes may be welded or soldered together. This method is not recommended for concrete or earthenware pipes.

Other commodities are often confused with pipes. These include: Conduit, Tube, Tunnel and Drain. Use only genuine pipes.
 
   / Shrub Bucket #28  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( That's why I said I knew I was quoting out of context. I just had to read it a second (or third) time because my mind kept putting the comma in the wrong place in the sentence. )</font>
Well, I hadn't seen this hilarious pipe thread before (yes, intended), but I did miss the comma the first few times, and I was going, WHAT? Then I walked away, came back and read the original again. Then I realized how my mind was only seeing what it wanted to see. Thought it was funny when Cliff posted my very thought! John
 
   / Shrub Bucket #29  
Where did you get the lower pins that are on the frame of the scoop? The pins that lock the scoop to the loader frame?
 
   / Shrub Bucket
  • Thread Starter
#30  
I machined the pins from solid bar stock on my lathe. It was pretty easy to do - just cut the stock to length, face each end nice and flat, cut a taper on one side, and drill a hole in the right place.

Some think I'm a bit crazy for spending money on things like machine tools, and in truth I don't really use them all that much, but when I need them it sure is nice to have them!

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Shrub Bucket #31  
I know what you mean about the machine tools. I have a shop full of them and keep buying more. Im looking at a 25000 pound drill press in the next town for sale. It and a half com;plete set of bits from 1 to 3 inches. My most used lathe is a 27 inch swing by 7 feet between cylinders then i have a 10 inch by 28 Logan lathe and an old warner swasey i just bought to set up as a tubing notcher. Im an equipment operator and truck driver but took took 4 years of machining in highschool and 2 in college of it. When I get my Bridgeport i'll have a mini milling machine for sale.
 
   / Shrub Bucket #32  
BGL990, could you post the dimensions of the frame that mounts to the FEL. I am looking into turning a snowplow that I have for an old truck into one that I can use on a JD 430 FEL. I would really appreciate them. Thanks.
 
   / Shrub Bucket
  • Thread Starter
#33  
I'll get the exact dimensions tonight (hopefully I remember! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif) but from memory, the actual frame was built out of 2x4 steel with horizontal sections 48" long and vertical pieces 9" long set between the horizontals (making 17" total frame height). The lower pins ended up almost exactly flush with the ends of the 48" pieces. I don't remember the width between upper brackets or their height from the pins.

Stay tuned ....
 
   / Shrub Bucket
  • Thread Starter
#34  
OK, here's what I measured:

Bottom pins center to center = 46.75"
Top brackets center to center = 40.25"
Bottom pin center line to highest point on underside of top bracket = 15"

I don't know what the official dimensions are for a 430/460 loader attachment, but these work for me. There is a wee bit of slop, especially in the top brackets, so these measurements are probably not exactly to spec, but they should work OK.

btw. I'm almost done my next project - just needs painting. Stay tuned to this forum for my home made rear blade ....
 
   / Shrub Bucket #35  
Hey BGL990 did you ever try your shrub scoop out. Wife wants me to dig up some small spruce trees and this should would make things quicker if it works.

Thanks
 
   / Shrub Bucket
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Yes, I've used it 3 or 4 times. It can work quite well if the soil isn't too hard. I tried it in some hard clay and my machine just isn't heavy enough to drive it very far into the ground. In softer soil, however, just raise the front of the tractor off the ground with it and use the bucket curl to gently rock the scoop back and forth. It sinks right in.
 

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