Should limited hyd. top link range be biased to longer or shorter?

[scootr]

Tilt is just as useful as lift on a scraper box when grading a road and in some mowing and raking jobs in my opinion. Need to cut a drainage ditch? You'll need lots of tilt.
I wouldn't be without it

 

[MaxLee]

I been researching this for a while now. I have a ck2620 with Pats QA whichs adds just shy of 4" on to 3pt. I did what others provided links to on here and measure what each C to C for each attachment is. They are all in the 25" +/- range. I also shortened and extended the OEM , which was 18 to 30. I am going to go with the 21 to 32" only because of the extra length of 3pt using Pats QA. I read many post where guys with the CK series are using the shorter one with no issues but they don't have a QA on the 3pt.

 

[skipmarcy]

I was fortunate to have most of the implements I would ever need/own 20 years ago when I did my hyd.toplink and the most important to me then and ever since was my boxblade. It requires the most constant adjustment when in use. I put it on the ground nice & level while hooked to the lower arms (std cat 1 swivel eyes) and measured hole to hole the length I would want with the cylinder in mid-stroke.

Back then there weren't many places to buy a ready-made toplink at affordable prices so I bought a clevis cylinder from Surplus Center that was just a little longer than what I needed when extended and bought a weld-on swivel eye from TSC for about $8. I extended the rod out as far as it would go, measured & cut the clevis/rod off BY HAND with a hacksaw, then soaked a bath towel with water and wrapped the exposed cyl rod and welded the swivel eye on the end of the rod.

That toplink has worked very well with all of my implements, will raise the rear of my bushog high enough to sharpen blades etc - my cutter has the slotted toplink. When I built the toplink I also added a Prince pilot-op check valve and as my hydraulic controls on the tractor have aged that check valve keeps the setting where you want it. Now if I ever had wanted to add a quick hitch of some kind (I don't) I would have had to change cylinders as of course mine is custom to my cat 1 hitch. Was about the best and most useful thing I ever did to my tractor.

 

[WinterDeere]

Tilt is just as useful as lift on a scraper box when grading a road and in some mowing and raking jobs in my opinion. Need to cut a drainage ditch? You'll need lots of tilt.
I wouldn't be without it

Definitely, and I wasn't implying there aren't a few applications where tilt is every bit as top. I was just saying that for my own applications, and probably those of many or most CUT owners, a top link is going to see much more frequent use than tilt. Even before the hydraulic top link, it seemed I was turning that top turnbuckle a few times per day, versus a few times per year for the tilt link.

 

[braccet]

Just wanted to follow up and let folks know how it went, including future Google searchers

Got my box blade and hooked it up. Seems like the 18-26 cylinder is just about the perfect range. Attaching shots at each extreme at ground level. Think I’ll get good range out of the box blade.

I am having a slight issue with the cylinder stuttering a little, maybe my RPMs just need to be a little higher.

 

[WinterDeere]

I am having a slight issue with the cylinder stuttering a little, maybe my RPMs just need to be a little higher.

Proportional control, or bang-bang solenoid? Could there be air in the system? Do you have a restrictor fitting or valve in that line?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just wanted to follow up and let folks know how it went, including future Google searchers

Got my box blade and hooked it up. Seems like the 18-26 cylinder is just about the perfect range. Attaching shots at each extreme at ground level. Think I’ll get good range out of the box blade.

I am having a slight issue with the cylinder stuttering a little, maybe my RPMs just need to be a little higher.

A set of flow restrictors usually takes care of the shuttering issue.

 

[WinterDeere]

A set of flow restrictors usually takes care of the shuttering issue.

I’ve only ever run one restrictor in a loop. Figured a pair might create more issues, as they’d be at slightly different dynamic pressures. Sort of like a circuit with two time constants too close to one another, the resonators beat against one-another.

 

[braccet]

I don’t have a restrictor or even know what one is! I just plugged it directly into the rear remotes on my Kioti.

None of the Amazon reviews on the cylinder mention any issue so I’m thinking it might be air? I did swap the lines (at the quick disconnects) a few times to figure out which “way” I liked better on the control. How would I go about getting the air out?

The seller did offer to swap it out which is nice, I’ll do that if it doesn’t work itself out.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I’ve only ever run one restrictor in a loop. Figured a pair might create more issues, as they’d be at slightly different dynamic pressures. Sort of like a circuit with two time constants too close to one another, the resonators beat against one-another.

I made my own flow restricters and used one in each line. I used the smallest drill bit I had had it's still a bit fast. There has been no problems with the cylinder "resonating". Just a smooth slightly fast extension and retraction.