Dirt Moving Should a box blade float?

[michahicks]

For a longer gravel driveway (not grass!), or even short sections of road, I've found a landscaping rake to be very effective for maintenance work, if you have access to one of those? After discovering this, my box blade is used only on rare occasions, when a LOT of material needs to be moved. The rake is MUCH easier to use, do a nice looking (even) job with.

Wait for a day where the material isn't rock hard, like maybe a few hours or the day after a good rain. I've found turning the rake so it's at a 45 degree angle works best, and make a few passes. The 45 degree angle prevents the rake from digging in too far - preventing the creation of rolling "moguls" as you try to control it's height, chasing that elusive "perfect" setting. As long as it's not collecting too much material, the rake is just fine floating on it's own generally. After a couple of passes the surface material has been worked up sufficiently where there's a slight "mow" created as the rake passes. That "mow" can be worked back and forth across the road according to the angle of the rake or the direction of your travel. Fills pot holes pretty easily, even pretty good sized ones. I usually angle the rake towards the center of the road/driveway, so I can pull material in from the sides and it also helps create a slight "dome" to encourage water run off if you'd like?

Using a 7' rake with my tractors, and would buy that size again if I were to replace it.

 

[oosik]

I have a mile long gravel driveway - flat & straight - right down a section line. For years I tried maintaining it with a rear blade and it did not work well at all. I finally got a grading scraper - Land Pride GS2584 - and what a world of difference. I can and do regrade the entire drive annually. I also have a Bush Hog roll over box blade. Its OK for short sections of driveway maintenance - filling my one large pot hole - but its also a bear to control for the long run. For me - the grading scraper was my salvation.

 

[Deano]

Sound stupid, but I found a box blade manual and it has some simple but useful tips on how to operate one!

 

[bcp]

Should a box blade float?

If it doesn't, strap an empty barrel on each side. But even then, after you cut the tops off the waves, they come back fast.

Please post a photo of your boat with a 3 point hitch. I've never seen one.

Bruce

 

[Dave Riebau]

I think you are right, but thought I could reverse my back blade and come close. I'd like to try a land plane but had to chose between a box blade and thought I could take off sod when I needed. Thanks and I'll look out for a used one.

leveling gravel is tough with a box. it becomes something of a manual process and needs user input to keep the box from doing just what you're experiencing. i usually float but find myself adjusting quite a bit as i go along.

if it's an option, you'd probably be better served by a land plane/leveler. tearing up the surface with scarifers (on the leveler or with your box) and then following up with the planer makes for good results. for extra-fine results (i.e. baseball diamonds or horse rings) you can make a final pass with a drag harrow

 

[Dave Riebau]

I didn't get a manual. Not much of a point to even ask any questions here as all the advice needed is read the manual. I read every time I get a chance and that said, that's why I signed up for this site. Thanks anyhow for the excellent advice.

Sound stupid, but I found a box blade manual and it has some simple but useful tips on how to operate one!

 

[nc redneck]

The only thing I could add is a small adjustment such as 1/4 or 1/2 half turn of top link can make a huge difference. You will also need to change settings if moving from a new to old gravel area.