Shibaura SD2243D Questions

[WestPalmBob]

Greetings All

I have included a few photos of my Shibaura SD2243D.



My implements include a ball hitch, sub soiler, rake, backhoe, posthole digger, and rotary tiller.

I have a number of problems I would like to take care of and hope you folks might have some ideas.

First off I have no operator or maintenance documentation for this machine. Somewhere I have a parts document I am not sure where but it is in Japanese. It contains some exploded diagrams that I think would be helpful. I understand Shibaura made some garden tractors for Ford and New Holland. Can anyone say the closest model that I might get documents for?

Second My 3 point hitch is electric over hydraulic. It raises and lowers properly but the hitch leaks down in less than a minute even when the valve that controls the rate that it lowers normally is closed completely. I believe that suggests the piston seal rather than the hydraulic valving. Is there anything else I should check before tearing into this?

My current thinking is that the entire assembly with the lift arms and all will need to be removed to gain access to the ram. If that痴 the case, I will need to remove the seat and then it looks like there 10 or so bolts that attach it to the transmission housing. Anyone know how it is connected internally or if there is an easier way to get to the business bits?

Is there a hydraulic filter I need to clean or replace from time to time? I saw a suspicious structure on the left side

My of the rubber parts are rotted or missing - ball joints, stick shifts, etc. Are these more or less standard in size?

I've changed the oil but never the lub in the front transfer case. I'm not even sure how it is lubed - but I'd guess gear oil. Should I be concerned about that?

Finally when I was driving over some debris, I managed to break the pitman arm. When I got it out, I could see that there was a void in the casting that was filled with bronze, but it clearly hadn't broken completely so I figure it must have been done at the factory before the part was painted. I've got it braised together with some additional steel but I壇 rather have a replacement if a US tractor uses the same part. The shaft and hole are splined so it will have to be exactly right.

Any other advice would be welcome.

Thanks Much -
Bob

 

[WestPalmBob]

Here is another snippet of information. From the Ford 1710 shop manual, I thought it might be possible to push the piston out of the head end from the back side although the back side is not depicted in the drawings. It turns out that the plate on the back is not the back of the housing. It is the top link mount but is bolted to the housing casting. For that reason, I think the only way to push the piston out is on the bench from the bottom side...

The other area of uncertainty for me is the electric over hydraulic components. I don't believe any of the similar Ford / New Holland tractors have that feature so the drawings I have won't be very helpful. I've got a parts document with some exploded views around here that I need to chase down.

 

[lens12]

You are correct that the Fords did not use the electric over hydraulics. I have not found any documentation on them.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Some of those/most of those injection pumps are self contained oil lubricated.. meaning> u have to add/change the lube oil in them regularly..
U just use whatever u put in the engine.. any overflow/excess will come out its vent tube on the back side.. I think its between 4-8oz of oil??
You fill it at/under the small breather on the governor..
You'll wanna do this sooner than later..

 

[dhsmith]

Hi Bob,

I have a similar issue with my SD1840. I was told by the folks at Southern Global a Japanese tractor specialist) in Mississippi that there are a couple of O-rings in the hydraulic valve that go bad periodically which results in an internal leak. Sorry, but I can't post the web site address since I am a newbie, but they will show up on google. I don't know if your tractor has the same valve setup as mine, but it may be a possibility. Additionally, Southern Global has translated literature on some tractors. They may have the pitman arm that you are looking for in addition to providing info on your hydraulic system. I just ordered a rebuilt steering box from them for mine.

Dave

 

[Trisong]

Bob,

I own the same tractor. I found that most of the parts can be purchased from any CNH dealer. Some from a 1710 Ford and some from a 1310 Ford. Shibaura used to make most of the ford compact Tractors so quite a few of the parts transfer right over. The Hydraulic pump however is a no go. The last one I saw on line was $1500 used. They don't make them anymore. So take care of the one you have, if it still works. Otherwise its fabrication time.

My 3Point works directly off my hydraulic pump with a valve and hand lever. Nothing electric is connected, and it works. I would have to think yours must be modified if its electric over hydraulic. (see attached image of valve)

I did see a few of the tractors in scrap yards so you may be able to get missing parts from those.

The manuals for the tractor came from sheaftractorgrics.net. He had the original parts and operators manual and the ford maintenance manual that was closest to it.

I used same hydraulic oil that goes in a 1710 I want to say it was the G type, to keep the foam to a minimum. Ill post it next time I see the can. The engine used 15W40.

 

[Trisong]

Bob,

Attached are picks of the oil I use in my tractor It is Multi G 134 from New Holland. I'm sure there are generics that are less expensive.