Service question

woodlandfarms · Aug 17, 2007

I keep getting mixed messages on when to change engine oil.. Is it at 250 or 50 hours? I am doing all filters as the machine is in such weird shape (I hit 50 hours today).

Also, I found another set of oil leaks. The hoses, I think drive hoses, running to the front are pretty cracked up, so they are seeping. I am thinking of just replacing all of my hoses running from the back to front. Some are weather checked, some are not. Anyone ever do this before?

Carl

toy · Aug 18, 2007

woodlandfarms said:
I keep getting mixed messages on when to change engine oil.. Is it at 250 or 50 hours? I am doing all filters as the machine is in such weird shape (I hit 50 hours today).

Also, I found another set of oil leaks. The hoses, I think drive hoses, running to the front are pretty cracked up, so they are seeping. I am thinking of just replacing all of my hoses running from the back to front. Some are weather checked, some are not. Anyone ever do this before?

Carl

Sedgewood had to replumb his machine after a fire. I believe I got the name and the reason right.

J_J · Aug 18, 2007

woodlandfarms said:
I keep getting mixed messages on when to change engine oil.. Is it at 250 or 50 hours? I am doing all filters as the machine is in such weird shape (I hit 50 hours today).

Also, I found another set of oil leaks. The hoses, I think drive hoses, running to the front are pretty cracked up, so they are seeping. I am thinking of just replacing all of my hoses running from the back to front. Some are weather checked, some are not. Anyone ever do this before?

Carl

On the hose change, there are several ways to do this. One is by taking it to a hydraulic shop and letting them make the hoses, and installing them. In my area, they will come to you with a van or truck and make up hoses for you.

You might get PT to give you dimensions to all the hoses, and let the hydraulic shop make them up and you install them.

You could order them off the INTERNET, but you have to know all the particulars, such as hose length, hose diameter, how many layers of wire, type fitting. etc.

A good way to run the hoses through the tunnel, is to get an adapter and connect the old hose and the new hose together and pull the new hose through the tunnel. I would also suggest spraying the hoses with something like liquid Dawn, or something slicky, that is easy to clean up.

You might also want to decide whether to use 1, 2, or 3 wire hoses.

SpringHollow · Aug 18, 2007

I would recommend the soap they use for pulling wires. It dries up well and should not cause any problems in the future.

It is tough to replace the hoses without knowing how long they are. There are the do it yourself hoses/fittings. The fittings are more expensive and I do not know how well they work but I assume they work.

Reusable SAE 100R2AT Hose Ends

The advantage here would be that you could pull a line through like JJ suggests (or a couple of lines at a time?) by making up one end of the hose. After you pull it through, you can see where to cut it and add the second fitting. If you wanted, you could place some reference length marks on the new hose (label them), measure the old hose after it has been removed, finish measuring frm one of the reference marks and cut it to the exact same size (don't forget to include the length of the fittings).

It would be so much nicer/easier if PT can give you the hose specifications and lengths ahead of time so you could save some time and money.

Ken

Ken

woodlandfarms · Aug 18, 2007

As I see it, here is the problem with the connect two hoses together idea. On the front, the hoses connecting to the wheels have 90 degree bends on the connector. So there is no way for me to connect two hoses together and pull them through as on of the ends is going to have a 90 degree turn...

Barryh · Aug 18, 2007

woodlandfarms said:
As I see it, here is the problem with the connect two hoses together idea. On the front, the hoses connecting to the wheels have 90 degree bends on the connector. So there is no way for me to connect two hoses together and pull them through as on of the ends is going to have a 90 degree turn...

both ends have a 90 degree connectors?? Can't pull it through from the other end other directon? Not seeing the setup, so just a thought.

J_J · Aug 18, 2007

woodlandfarms said:
As I see it, here is the problem with the connect two hoses together idea. On the front, the hoses connecting to the wheels have 90 degree bends on the connector. So there is no way for me to connect two hoses together and pull them through as on of the ends is going to have a 90 degree turn...

I have one of the manual portable crimper's, but have never used it. The instructions indicate that it is fairly easy. The instructions say to select the correct fitting, and I mean by that, is to select the fitting that is matched to the diameter of the hose. It could be 1,2, or 3 wire. Once the correct fitting is selected, put the fitting into a vise, slide the hose on the unit until it is flush to the end of the barrel. You then, take this tool that looks like a pipe cutter, but it puts a crimper bead around the hose. You do this 2 or 3 times.

These things must work , a lot of people cannot afford to waste time running back to the hydraulic shop.

With the screw on fittings, seems like all you have to do is cut the ends flush, put the screw barrel on first, and insert the core and tighten the barrel as necessary.

If you have a a straight end, it should go easy, the pull should go smothly

If you have 90 degree fittings on both ends, you might have some difficulty there. Your option is to have a portable crimper machine at the install site.

I was going to mention the wire pull liquid, but I didn't know if it would clean up easy.

It would be nice if you had a hydraulic shop that you could trailer your PT to the back door of the shop, and they would let you remove , order up a hose, and you install the hose, They would have the hose, fittings, and your oil, and for around $ 55.00 an hour, they just might do everything, plus parts.

SpringHollow · Aug 18, 2007

Hi J.J.,

All the hydraulic crimpers I have ever seen are pretty expensive. Do you know of any that are not?

Thanks,

Ken

J_J · Aug 19, 2007

ksimolo said:
Hi J.J.,

All the hydraulic crimpers I have ever seen are pretty expensive. Do you know of any that are not?

Thanks,

Ken

This is one of the units that I found. It is more expensive than the unit that I have. will look for more.

ACTMAN2100, Set, A/C Hose Crimper, Manual

J_J · Aug 19, 2007

J_J said:
This is one of the units that I found. It is more expensive than the unit that I have. will look for more.

ACTMAN2100, Set, A/C Hose Crimper, Manual

Another crimper.

Fittings_Crimper

Hydraulic Hose Repair/A step by step guide using the Roto-Crimper

SpringHollow · Aug 19, 2007

Hi J.J.,

Even that first one is much cheaper than the ones I have seen ($1000).

Ken

Marks481 · Aug 19, 2007

The links that you posted are for A/C hose fitting crimpers. Would the fittings you make with that actually withstand hydraulic pressure?

woodlandfarms · Aug 19, 2007

So to the hoses. Yes, one end is straight, the other bent at 90. At first I thought like all of you, no problem. Then I did the math. Either the new hose or the old hose is going to have to go through the tunnel with the 90 attached. Think about it for a moment. Straight is at the back, 90 is at the front. I pull from the back to the front. I must attach the new 90 to the straight to keep it all kosher....

Yeah, this may be a case for building your own hose. Kaching.

Waiting to hear how sedgewood dealt with this...

KentT · Aug 19, 2007

woodlandfarms said:
So to the hoses. Yes, one end is straight, the other bent at 90. At first I thought like all of you, no problem. Then I did the math. Either the new hose or the old hose is going to have to go through the tunnel with the 90 attached. Think about it for a moment. Straight is at the back, 90 is at the front. I pull from the back to the front. I must attach the new 90 to the straight to keep it all kosher....

Yeah, this may be a case for building your own hose. Kaching.

Waiting to hear how sedgewood dealt with this...

Use the old hose to pull a rope or cable through to the front. Then, use the rope or cable to pull the new hose througn from the front...

One additional pull, but it solves that problem...

SpringHollow · Aug 19, 2007

Use the thread on re-usable hose ends on the new hose. Put a straight one on, couple it to the old one (straight end), pull it through, replace the straight connector with a 90. That way, only one pull. Reuse the straight one on the next hose.

Ken

woodlandfarms · Aug 19, 2007

ksimolo said:
Use the thread on re-usable hose ends on the new hose. Put a straight one on, couple it to the old one (straight end), pull it through, replace the straight connector with a 90. That way, only one pull. Reuse the straight one on the next hose.

Ken

Thus my high school diploma lets me down again. Always leave it to someone with a doctorate to set me straight...

Thanks again.. Great idea... Although with my tractor it will be the spot it leaks in...

J_J · Aug 19, 2007

Tim_in_CT said:
The links that you posted are for A/C hose fitting crimpers. Would the fittings you make with that actually withstand hydraulic pressure?

You are right. I should have known by the name Polar Bear. It is just hydraulic powered.

Some hydraulic have about 6 times the pressure as A/C . I don't think it would hold up.

J_J · Aug 20, 2007

Carl, these are the reusable hose fittings that can be used with 100R2. which is a high pressure hose. Look at the chart and determine the inside diameter of the hose , measure the length of the hose, cut the ends off square. Select type fitting. put the barrel on the hose, lube the fitting, and slide it on until it bottoms out. Then tighten the fitting with two wrenches, or use a vice for one side.

Reusable SAE 100R2AT Hose Ends

A neat trick here would be to use the straight fitting to pull the hose, and switch the straight end for the correct reusable fitting.

These fittings are for those of us that don't appreciate the high cost of having a hydraulic company making up a hose for you and you almost choke at the cost. Hose cost from $.87 cents per ft, to about $2.50 per ft. Just about anybody can make up their own hose set.

woodlandfarms · Aug 21, 2007

I took a look at my front wheel hoses and yes, one indeed has been replaced with the straight pipe and a curved connector. Seems like the way to go on this project... Will ask Terry about hose lengths...

Carl

Phils · Aug 21, 2007

J_J said:
Carl, these are the reusable hose fittings that can be used with 100R2. which is a high pressure hose. Look at the chart and determine the inside diameter of the hose , measure the length of the hose, cut the ends off square. Select type fitting. put the barrel on the hose, lube the fitting, and slide it on until it bottoms out. Then tighten the fitting with two wrenches, or use a vice for one side.

Reusable SAE 100R2AT Hose Ends

A neat trick here would be to use the straight fitting to pull the hose, and switch the straight end for the correct reusable fitting.

These fittings are for those of us that don't appreciate the high cost of having a hydraulic company making up a hose for you and you almost choke at the cost. Hose cost from $.87 cents per ft, to about $2.50 per ft. Just about anybody can make up their own hose set.

I've used those fittings many times during the years I was hauling a portable parking lot cross-country. The company owned the trailer but doing hydraulic hose repairs myself saved time, and time was money. I kept an assortment of fittings and lengths of hose with my tools. They worked great and were easy to use.

Phil