I know alot of you guys nave alot of knowledge so here goes I have a septic system by my shop my problem is i can;t tie straight into the inlet port i need to puy a 90 in at tank and run line towards the side of tnk will a90 at tank be ok
septic tank question
- Thread starter M E Cook
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George2615
Super Member
I would say its OK. My line runs out from the house about 12' then turns 90 deg. then goes 5' and into the tank. Once in the tank it has another 90 and down spout of 2'. I'm no expert nor did I install mine but its been that way for the past 30 years. Just be sure the entire line slopes to the tank.
Diggin It
Super Star Member
OK, I had to read that about 6 times to parse it out, but I gather you need to make a turn for some reason. Solids don't like 90 degree turns even it water doesn't mind. It would be better to use two 45 degree elbows with a short straight piece between them if you have the room for that.
Another option would be a wider radius 'sweep' elbow.
Another option would be a wider radius 'sweep' elbow.
yes i would use a long sweep 90 have to turn direction at tank right away will put clean out about 4 feet from 90 to have access
No, previous post was right. Two 45s with a short section between, clean outs every 50 feet. Reason being, most snakes only reach 50 feet and most snakes hate 90s. Make sure there is a tee at the tank outlet too, makes it harder for solids to float into the drain field.
Can be as short as you want, 5-6”. We usually do it according to trench layout and use 1 foot on up.
Streetcar
Veteran Member
Use 45 if you have room. Objects can hang up in a 90
my problem is I need to turn 90 degrees as quick as possible out of tank real tight spot to run line so 2 45s with a 3-4 " pipe between or long sweep 90 are my choices what would be best choice
Use 1 regular 45 and 1 "street" 45. Glue them together. That is the most compact way to get 2 45's.
Make sure you put in a 2 way clean out between the building and tank.
Use schedule 40 pipe with fresh primer and fresh glue.
Make sure you put in a 2 way clean out between the building and tank.
Use schedule 40 pipe with fresh primer and fresh glue.
3Ts
Elite Member
Use a sweep or 45 degrees with a short piece of pipe. Do not use an elbow for drains. Also, depending on pipe diameter, be sure the slope is between 1/8" and 1/4" per foot. If you need to drop more than that use a vertical riser with a sweep at the bottom.
jfh28
Platinum Member
90 is asking for trouble......even two 45's is going to be prone to clogging......if you have no other choice then make sure you install a cleanout before the turn as you will be using it.........Jack
got the pipe all connected this is a bathroom for my personal shop will not see a lot of use toilet wise so if i double or triple flush that should help keep lines clear and i put a 2way clean out right at tank so if it clogs easy to get too thanks for the help
RoyKing
Platinum Member
put a clean out right before that turn so when it plugs you just open the clean out and shove a hose in there with a fire nozzle stand back and turn it on, or cut new hole in tank its easy take a drill make bunch small holes chisel it out put elbow on inside and cement up. takes about and hour.
Here is trick to make your drain field last forever on the outlet side of the tank in the distribution box cut hole in the top and bring a piece of 1.5 tubing straight up with loose cap on top every 6 month put in a pound of copper sulfate like you buy at the feed stores blue stuff, it will prevent roots from clogging the drain field, I've got fields 40 years old and still working.
Also don't use lots of bleach and a running toilet will screw up the tanks bio digestion, add bio agent down the toilet regularly also. The way tank works is the solids have be digested and output line is below the surface level so only liquids reach the field, Have pulled the lid on many a tank and pumped them out you be surprised what you find on the bottom.
Never pay to have your field dug up, most times it roots in the distribution box, dig it up yourself cut roots out and maybe three feet of field replaced pour a lot copper sulfate in the fields. Go to the rental place rent a ground water pump and extra long discharge hose and pump it into the flowers. They will bloom like crazy, don't tell the rental place what your doing they won't rent it you. In some places pumping out the tank might be a rule breaker. In that case wait till dark and run the pump.
Here is trick to make your drain field last forever on the outlet side of the tank in the distribution box cut hole in the top and bring a piece of 1.5 tubing straight up with loose cap on top every 6 month put in a pound of copper sulfate like you buy at the feed stores blue stuff, it will prevent roots from clogging the drain field, I've got fields 40 years old and still working.
Also don't use lots of bleach and a running toilet will screw up the tanks bio digestion, add bio agent down the toilet regularly also. The way tank works is the solids have be digested and output line is below the surface level so only liquids reach the field, Have pulled the lid on many a tank and pumped them out you be surprised what you find on the bottom.
Never pay to have your field dug up, most times it roots in the distribution box, dig it up yourself cut roots out and maybe three feet of field replaced pour a lot copper sulfate in the fields. Go to the rental place rent a ground water pump and extra long discharge hose and pump it into the flowers. They will bloom like crazy, don't tell the rental place what your doing they won't rent it you. In some places pumping out the tank might be a rule breaker. In that case wait till dark and run the pump.
Last edited:
Diggin It
Super Star Member
Adding onto this thread:
Have any of you added pump out ports or standpipes to your existing tank? Mine is concrete and I'll have to open it this Spring sometime to have it pumped again. I'm hoping to either have the existing cap core drilled to add a 6-8" pipe, or I might form and pour a new one. Might even do both ends. I've red some comments on other boards that some areas don't allow that, but I won't have that issue.
Opened mine by hand digging with a shovel last time. At least I have a bigger shovel this time.
Have any of you added pump out ports or standpipes to your existing tank? Mine is concrete and I'll have to open it this Spring sometime to have it pumped again. I'm hoping to either have the existing cap core drilled to add a 6-8" pipe, or I might form and pour a new one. Might even do both ends. I've red some comments on other boards that some areas don't allow that, but I won't have that issue.
Opened mine by hand digging with a shovel last time. At least I have a bigger shovel this time.
RoyKing
Platinum Member
why do you need to pump out, what happens, are using a garbage disposal? A properly working tank never needs pumping
If some regular access is the goal, add a riser kit. For illustration purposes, Complete Septic Tank Riser Systems | Fast & Free Shipping
Usually too much paper products add to the troubles. Feminine products and condom disposal really dont help at all
. And sometimes, being onsite for the repair is a bad thing. Especially when you point out the too much paper and the floaty things aren’t recognized by the “man of the house” 
