selector valve

[Hooked_on_HP]

Have you got to use the valve yet. I have been waiting to buy one. I wanted to make sure it would do every thing we thought it woud before buying.
Bill

 

[john_bud]

Generally I don't think it is a good idea to pick and hold these coils. That said my front selector for a thumb on the bucket was a kit from Fasse and it had two switches on the grip one momentary and the other a toggle. The toggle allowed hold . But I still would not do it.

Right! A lock valve for 80 bucks will hold the cylinder in place with no need to energize the solenoid.

jb

 

[6sunset6]

Have you got to use the valve yet. I have been waiting to buy one. I wanted to make sure it would do every thing we thought it woud before buying.
Bill

I have not run it yet , another week or two. I did attach the Cat maintainence pages a few posts back and some one else did run it.

 

[Zephrant]

In my experience, coils on solenoids can certainly be kept energized, but I don't know if there is anything special about these coils.
Basically if they don't over-heat, you should be fine.

I have a safety coil on a liquid nitrogen line that has been energized for years. Of course it is not in much risk of over-heating.

 

[POC]

Great looking mods guys!
sunset, I was thinking you might use that "handle dip" that is generally for pliers and the like, it is a rubbery plastic stuff. Do you know what I'm talking about? I was thinking you could dip/brush it on your handle, should weatherproof the whole works.

ArTrvlr I love the looks of your handle. I'm going to have to do something like that.

I'm thinking of getting this same valve for the addition of a grapple and I really think that is the way I'm going to go.
Thanks to Hooked on HP for showing me this thread.

Patrick

 

[ArTrvlr]

Well, I finally got a chance to paint the bondo knob and finish the switch mounting plate. Also the switch came in. Yea, I made the switch recess in the knob and the hole in the mounting plate without having a switch on hand for measurements. But the switch supplier (delcity.net) had good dimensions on it's website and in their catalog. I went by the dimensions and hoped for the best. This is the DPDT rocker switch I used: Del City Item 7500011

This is the drawing with all the dimensions and circuit diagram: http://www.delcity.net/images/linedrawings/7500011.pdf

First pics are of the switch and the switch plate. The terminal on the center lug in the first pic is a "flag" type, also from Del City. Part No. 192175. I am using them because of the limited depth of the hole in the knob. The wires will come off the side instead of the bottom like with regular terminals.



This is the finished knob:



The bolts sticking out of the shaft at the base of the knob will be replaced with setscrews. The next one compares it to the original shift knob I copied. It turned out a little "fatter" than the original but that doesn't seem to matter, as you can see above, my thumb lands on the rocker switch just right. I used Rust-Oleum orange and it's a pretty good match.



Next I need to mount the valve on the FEL and do all the plumbing and wiring.
jp

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Your handle turned out nice. I have used bond for a lot of things it wasn't intended for but never thought of using it to mold a shape. I ordered my valve and fittings and hopefully it will come in this week and I can get started on the plumbing. Did you make the plate for your switch or buy it
Bill

 

[ArTrvlr]

Your handle turned out nice. I have used bond for a lot of things it wasn't intended for but never thought of using it to mold a shape. I ordered my valve and fittings and hopefully it will come in this week and I can get started on the plumbing. Did you make the plate for your switch or buy it
Bill

Thanks. It wasn't hard to make, but not sure I would recommend it for a first time bondo project. I have been smearing that stuff since I was a kid. I really think it is important to use a fiberglass reinforced filler, like Tiger Hair, or it will probably crack after a few years. Also a metal frame is important to give it some strength.

I made the plate out of a scrap of aluminum. Steel would work, I just happened to have a scrap of aluminum, plus soft aluminum is easier to work with. A stiff plastic would work as well. I got the shape by drawing an oval in Microsoft Word, then set the length and width to be a little smaller than the knob. I mounted the plate on the knob before I had sanded it to shape. That way I was able to make the knob match the shape of the plate.

**********************************************************

Also... I noticed the link to the rocker switch doesn't always work. If you get the error page, just put the part #, 7500011 into the Del City product search box.
jp

 

[ArTrvlr]

If anyone is seriously thinking of using this valve, the supply at Surplus Center is dwindling. Last week they had over 30, at last check it is down to 26. The price quoted to me by a local Cat dealer was $734.82. Not trying to be an alarmist, everyone make your own decision.

One thing to consider, what if your valve goes bad and SC is out of them? Hopefully the only thing to fail would be a solenoid, and hopefully they are available separately.

Like most things, you pays yo' money and you takes yo' chances.
jp

 

[6sunset6]

My local Cat dealer showed all the parts available for this valve. That said I would bet $150 for another valve is cheaper than any part from Cat except maybe orings. I know if I got another one for parts it would be on the shelf for a long time. Hard to justify

 

[countrybumpkin]

Well after looking at the control valve I was thinking of getting I don't think will work for me, it's a open center, I think I need a closed center ( so it holds the cylinder were it is when the control valve is released) with power beyond correct? Also ArTrvlr your control knob looks great.

 

[6sunset6]

This valve is a selector valve. You still need a 4 way in front of it. The selector valve does not care whats in front of it. It just controls the oil delivery path to different cylinders. If you do not have a 4way remote valve this valve will not help you at all.

 

[ArTrvlr]

Well after looking at the control valve I was thinking of getting I don't think will work for me, it's a open center, I think I need a closed center ( so it holds the cylinder were it is when the control valve is released) with power beyond correct? Also ArTrvlr your control knob looks great.

Thanks bumpkin. I probably overdid it on the finish, although it is only spray can paint. It is pretty slick and may be hard to hold. Time will tell. If that proves to be a problem I may refinish it with something like wrinkle or crackle finish paint.

What control valve are you considering? Remember, what we are discussing here is a diverter, or selector valve, not a control valve.
jp

 

[6sunset6]

Moving on, Murphy was running rampant today. what could go wrong did.
First valve all mounted and all cables in place . Checking button function against valve function. No power to one of the coils. Turns out a missed a jumper in the gripper switch wiring. Dumb. That was an hour.
Then the big one. I went to install the tilt cylinder. The top hole was too small and the bottom holes too big. I think the diameters were reversed. Rather than going through the expense of shipping back and forth I just fixed it. Bushings for the bottom holes was easy, The top hole was something else. I have a set of adjustable reamers . The hole had to go
from .75 to .875 It took a long time because they are hand reamers. But it worked . Start on hoses tomorrow.

 

[kennyd]

Well after looking at the control valve I was thinking of getting I don't think will work for me, it's a open center, I think I need a closed center ( so it holds the cylinder were it is when the control valve is released) with power beyond correct? Also ArTrvlr your control knob looks great.

You will ALWAYS need OPEN CENTER valves with your tractor. And, as the others just said...This is NOT a valve, but rather a selector or diverter that goes inline after your existing valve.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I know the valve that they are using is a selector I had decided not to use this type and go with a complete control valve instead, like in my earlier post. As for the open or closed center I shouldn't have brought that up in this post, I don't want to take away from the thread, it's been very informative about the selector valve, I'll be keeping up with this one for sure.

 

[6sunset6]

It's Finished. Works perfect. I left the orifice in and used 1/4 diameter hoses, Even for the supply to the valve. Hard to believe but there are 5 functions on the back for the snow blower.
1. 3 point Factory
2. Top cylinder new selector C port check valve keeps it from dropping
Hard fittings 3/8 JIC
3. Tilt cylinder new selector B ports Cylinder has check valves built in hard fittings 3/8 JIC
4. Rotate chute Factory 4 way QD 1/2 highest flow possible
5. Tilt chute new selector A port priority QD 3/8

I do have a post hole digger, seldom used I got 3/8 JIC plugs and caps and will just disconnect hoses on the top cylinder to remove it. I could probably un pin it and lay it aside still connected but I did that once before and hit the valve handle by accident and bad things happened.

The other thing I might mention is that I use reusable ends and buy bulk hose. That way I can make the hoses exactly as I want and if they are not right I can make them over. Granted the fittings cost more and there is less of a choice of fittings but it works for me.
I will post a picture when I remember to take the camera out there.

 

[kennyd]

You used 1/4" hose for the IN, OUT, and PB connections? What is the flow rating for your machine?

 

[6sunset6]

7.2 GPM However there is no PB. Remember this is a selector valve. There is a restricting orifice .045 in the input port. So 1/4 hoses are fine for the whole thing. I have factory remotes with 1/2 QD so I just plugged the Selector supply and return into a pair of those. Then too the cylinders are not that big and I used the selector valve for the ones that don't move much.

I used the second factory remote for the one I will use a lot , the blower rotate and the grader blade rotate.

Standby for a new thread . I need to split a fair amoint of 20" oak. My 4 x 24 splitter can do it but it is really labor intensive and they are very heavy.
So what I want to do is mount a 5 x 24 on the bottom of a beam on a three point . with a 4 way wedge. Drop it over the piece and from the seat cycle the cylinder . Cycle time is slow but I don't care. after a 4 way split I can lift them into the bucket. I figure $600.
The other alternative is a lifter on mu splitter with a shelf around the wedge. I am not sure a 4" cylinder will do a 4 way though so it still labor intensive.

 

[kennyd]

7.2 GPM However there is no PB. Remember this is a selector valve.

I am stupid...I forgot it was a selector valve.