Security & Theft Securing tractor from theft

[gemini5362]

pat if you get into the situate where you have glued the conduit before you run the line you might try some light string tie it to a piec of paper that is rolled up and folded over then hit it with some air from your air hose. that should force the string through the hose and then you can pull your wire with it.

 

[denmansoft]

Around here electrical inspectors would not allow anything in the conduit with your #6/3.
I agree having the 30gal pig is all most casual use would need. I have an 8gal dead compressor which will get into a similar application.

 

[gemini5362]

Around here electrical inspectors would not allow anything in the conduit with your #6/3.
I agree having the 30gal pig is all most casual use would need. I have an 8gal dead compressor which will get into a similar application.

I doubt if any electrical inspectors would ever see his conduit.

 

[patrick_g]

I doubt if any electrical inspectors would ever see his conduit.

Thomas, RIGHT AGAIN!!! I have yet to have pulled a permit or been visited by an inspector with the following sort of exceptions. A government guy came out to inspect a 5 wire barbed wire fence I put up on a GOV assistance program. They require all pipe to be painted and capped to prevent rain water getting in, certain designs to be followed, and such.

My septic systems had to be registered with the DEQ. IN one instance the installer (lisc for self inspection) nevertheless had a state inspector come out anyway to uh huh his work.

I have 375 amp service to the house, 2 each 200 amp breaker boxes with 200 amp mains, 4 sub panels (and counting) and not a single inspection. Here in rural Oklahoma you don't need jacks or better to open, just open on your own guts. Of course I used only lisc electricians who did everything to code or better (I demanded that)

If a plastic (1/8 inch ID) hose run through the same conduit as 6-3 with ground in an insulating jacket as well as individual insulation (except ground) is a dangerous thing I'll eat my VOM.

Regarding the trick with the glued up conduit:

The electrical supply houses sell a little piece of fluff with a leader on it. You tie on your own light string and use a small vacuum cleaner to suck it from where you put it into the conduit to where you want the wire to exit. There is no conflict between a tight fit of the vacuum nozzle and the string when you use it to suck instead of blow.

Works pretty good for pulling additional wires in an existing conduit. I'd hate to try to pull the 6-3 with ground through 3/4 conduit (without the air hose added in) it there were very many bends. I will have considerable elbows in this run so will not consider gluing until the wire and air hose are all in place.

Pat

 

[gemini5362]

Thomas, RIGHT AGAIN!!! I have yet to have pulled a permit or been visited by an inspector with the following sort of exceptions. A government guy came out to inspect a 5 wire barbed wire fence I put up on a GOV assistance program. They require all pipe to be painted and capped to prevent rain water getting in, certain designs to be followed, and such.

My septic systems had to be registered with the DEQ. IN one instance the installer (lisc for self inspection) nevertheless had a state inspector come out anyway to uh huh his work.

I have 375 amp service to the house, 2 each 200 amp breaker boxes with 200 amp mains, 4 sub panels (and counting) and not a single inspection. Here in rural Oklahoma you don't need jacks or better to open, just open on your own guts. Of course I used only lisc electricians who did everything to code or better (I demanded that)

If a plastic (1/8 inch ID) hose run through the same conduit as 6-3 with ground in an insulating jacket as well as individual insulation (except ground) is a dangerous thing I'll eat my VOM.

Regarding the trick with the glued up conduit:

The electrical supply houses sell a little piece of fluff with a leader on it. You tie on your own light string and use a small vacuum cleaner to suck it from where you put it into the conduit to where you want the wire to exit. There is no conflict between a tight fit of the vacuum nozzle and the string when you use it to suck instead of blow.

Works pretty good for pulling additional wires in an existing conduit. I'd hate to try to pull the 6-3 with ground through 3/4 conduit (without the air hose added in) it there were very many bends. I will have considerable elbows in this run so will not consider gluing until the wire and air hose are all in place.

Pat

Thanks for the advice on the vacuum cleaner and fluff. I am cheap I just take a small piece of paper and an air hose. But then again I dont do much conduit work anymore either.

 

[PILOON]

For pulling wires there exists a lubricant that the pro's use.
Basically it is a silicone grease of sorts that you blob onto a rag as you insert the wire into the conduit.
I recently had to insert a 100 ft length of heat tracing wire into a buried water supply line and tried that method with great success.
Dry i could barely inch the tracing cable when over 20 ft.
With the lube at 75 ft I was pushing 2 ft at a time and accomplished the 100 ft insertion in no time at all.

Note if it hadn't been a previously buried line I would have used the vacume and ball of fluff method. (Plumbers call that sending a mouse to do the job)
I also have done that 'mouse' trick. Works!

 

[denmansoft]

Around here all electrical work must be permitted and inspected by a provincial gov. inspector. They won't allow anything (other than chaser string) in a conduit with 'High voltage ie 110/220vac. I have no problem following code, getting and timing the inspections when you live 4 hours away and are at the property mostly weekends in a pain.

 

[patrick_g]

Thanks for the advice on the vacuum cleaner and fluff. I am cheap I just take a small piece of paper and an air hose. But then again I dont do much conduit work anymore either.

I put in about 120 feet of 3/4 inch conduit today, after lunch till 3:30, with a helper. Wholesaler guy said the wire would fit in 1/2 inch conduit but would be easier in 3/4. I'd like to see him do what we did today with 1/2 inch. We removed the 3 HUGE aluminum cables from the meter box on the pole where the transformer is that had provided 200 amp service to the bld I moved and replaced them with 6-3 with ground. Way more than enough to power a 240 volt submerged pump. I have another run of 6-3 with ground running from the well house to the hay barn so it can have lights and support power tools.

Tomorrow we will install a breaker box in the well house and a sub panel in the hay barn. As soon as I can get the backhoe guy out again I will run conduit with 6-3 and ground from new 21x48 metal/welding shop (ex tractor shed) to the relocated 35x70 ft barn. This is the run that will have the 1/8 inch ID air line.

The 6-3 with ground was fairly easy to do in the 3/4 inch plastic conduit by adding a single 10 ft piece at a time but going around elbows and such was a bit of a struggle.

The backhoe operator "discovered" a fair sized concrete conduit running parallel to the highway several feet from the fence line toward the interior of my property. He didn't hurt it, just reported it to me. Where my run crosses over it I am only a foot down from the surface. I think it is the AT&T main line which would have been a real hassle had we cut it.

This morning we installed about 120 ft of 6 inch S&D line to plumb the 4 down spouts of the building I moved to divert the runoff water south of the bld toward a pond and not anywhere inconvenient. Glad to get that done as it may rain later in the week.

Pat

 

[gemini5362]

I put in about 120 feet of 3/4 inch conduit today, after lunch till 3:30, with a helper. Wholesaler guy said the wire would fit in 1/2 inch conduit but would be easier in 3/4. I'd like to see him do what we did today with 1/2 inch. We removed the 3 HUGE aluminum cables from the meter box on the pole where the transformer is that had provided 200 amp service to the bld I moved and replaced them with 6-3 with ground. Way more than enough to power a 240 volt submerged pump. I have another run of 6-3 with ground running from the well house to the hay barn so it can have lights and support power tools.

Tomorrow we will install a breaker box in the well house and a sub panel in the hay barn. As soon as I can get the backhoe guy out again I will run conduit with 6-3 and ground from new 21x48 metal/welding shop (ex tractor shed) to the relocated 35x70 ft barn. This is the run that will have the 1/8 inch ID air line.

The 6-3 with ground was fairly easy to do in the 3/4 inch plastic conduit by adding a single 10 ft piece at a time but going around elbows and such was a bit of a struggle.

The backhoe operator "discovered" a fair sized concrete conduit running parallel to the highway several feet from the fence line toward the interior of my property. He didn't hurt it, just reported it to me. Where my run crosses over it I am only a foot down from the surface. I think it is the AT&T main line which would have been a real hassle had we cut it.

This morning we installed about 120 ft of 6 inch S&D line to plumb the 4 down spouts of the building I moved to divert the runoff water south of the bld toward a pond and not anywhere inconvenient. Glad to get that done as it may rain later in the week.

Pat

I may never come visit you again. If my wife sees all the work that you have done to your place since we were there last. She is going to throw rocks at me and more importantly ask why I cannot get at least half of that amount of work done. Sounds like you have made some big changes to things. I am still trying to figure out where everything has been moved to and is sitting. I know you said you had posted pictures of the building move but I am not sure which thread you posted them in could you provide me with a good starting place to search. Sounds like you are getting your place set up so that you can be comfortable doing whatever you feel like doing at any particular time. I have to fill john roberts in on all the changes. Have a good thanksgiving

 

[patrick_g]

I may never come visit you again. If my wife sees all the work that you have done to your place since we were there last. She is going to throw rocks at me and more importantly ask why I cannot get at least half of that amount of work done. Sounds like you have made some big changes to things. I am still trying to figure out where everything has been moved to and is sitting. I know you said you had posted pictures of the building move but I am not sure which thread you posted them in could you provide me with a good starting place to search. Sounds like you are getting your place set up so that you can be comfortable doing whatever you feel like doing at any particular time. I have to fill john roberts in on all the changes. Have a good thanksgiving

Humor intended? and taken as humor 'cause I can't picture the rock tossing.


Got the well house breaker box installed, wired up and feeding he convenience outlets and submerged pump. Got the sub panel off of that installed in hay barn and ready for lighting/convenience outlets runs. Have a call into the backhoe guy to get him out to trench to run power from the metal/welding shop (shares common wall with 3 car garage and my wood shop) to the BIG RED BARN (was next to highway but is now 200 ft from my 3 car garage.)

Putting the finishing touches on the fiber cement panels (in lieu of sheetrock for better fire resistance) in the first 3 bays of 4 bay metal and welding shop (adjoining wood shop.) Will then install the 10 ft wide 8 ft tall overhead door.

Tractor is running again. NEW THEORY...

The clutch depression switch requiring yo to push the clutch all the way in to start the engine was not bad and was not changed out. I suspect (haven't got conclusive evidence) that the problem was the HST pedal switch that requires you to have the HST in center detent (not to run you forward or back) before allowing an engine start. I think maybe the pedal was not quite in the right position or the switch is slightly maladjusted. Then when I forcefully depress the clutch the shock and vibration may have overcome the pedals stiction and let it relax to center detent. Anyway it starts first time every time now and I didn't really do anything (except tear the dash apart to get to the clutch switch.) There is also a safety switch inhibiting a start if the PTO is engaged. I think it more likely that the problem is with the HST pedal position switch than the PTO switch.

Taking much of thanksgiving off and then back at it Friday. Gov inspector is coming Fri PM to inspect the 1/4 mile cross fence I did. If (er ah, I mean WHEN) it passes I get some $ (I'm on a conservation plan under contract to Gov, NRCS in particular.)

Put out two round bale feeders and two round bales and a couple buckets of 50-50 corn gluten and soy hull mix. Boy howdy do they go for the gluten big time. Some of the herd tries to eat out of the buckets while I am carrying them prior to pouring them out.

Pat