Scotts S2554 by John Deere Blowing Fuse on Start

[etruchan]

To report back, I didn't get a chance to make the light but i brought a bunch of fuses home from work.

I unplugged the regulator and went to start. The starter engaged, didn't turn over but didn't blow a fuse.

Two days ago I ran an interesting test but i don't know if the logic was flawed. In an effort to isolate the starters ability to turn the motor over, I bypassed everything. I rigged up a connection from a fully charged secondary battery (no inline fuse. this may have been a bad idea). I directly connected the battery with jumpers to the starter and was able to turn the motor over. Was this a bad test? Does this prove the starter is good?

Back to yesterday. Upon not turning over the motor, I checked the voltage on the battery and at the starter. I was not getting 12V. I recharged the battery and I then checked the solenoid. It checked negative for continuity between poles. I ordered a new solenoid. It may be possible that the solenoid and/or a magnet was a combined issue. I will retest with a new solenoid to make sure the starter is getting enough power.

 

[Richard001]

Which starter type do you have?
THIS?


OR THIS?


Richard

 

[etruchan]

Which starter type do you have?
THIS?
View attachment 615293

OR THIS?
View attachment 615294

Richard

I have the second starter type with the attached solenoid.

 

[tomplum]

So it does sound like the stator is shorted if you didn't blow a fuse. If either lead goes to ground, it's dead. You could remove the engine cover and look for signs of magnet dust and then try turning the engine by hand listening for scraping noises. Pull the flywheel in any case if the stator is dead. To test your starter w/ the piggyback solenoid simply jump from the + terminal to the small trigger wire to crank. As long as you have a ground, it should fire and crank the starter motor.

 

[etruchan]

So it does sound like the stator is shorted if you didn't blow a fuse. If either lead goes to ground, it's dead. You could remove the engine cover and look for signs of magnet dust and then try turning the engine by hand listening for scraping noises. Pull the flywheel in any case if the stator is dead. To test your starter w/ the piggyback solenoid simply jump from the + terminal to the small trigger wire to crank. As long as you have a ground, it should fire and crank the starter motor.

I did remove the engine cover and did not hear any scraping sounds or see any obvious magnet dust. I assume it would be similar to brake dust. I can remove the flywheel just in case though. What would cause the starter to not crank with the standard wiring harness but allow if to crank by bypassing the factory harness? Would a bad solenoid cause this?

Two days ago I ran an interesting test but i don't know if the logic was flawed. In an effort to isolate the starters ability to turn the motor over, I bypassed everything. I rigged up a connection from a fully charged secondary battery (no inline fuse. this may have been a bad idea). I directly connected the battery with jumpers to the starter and was able to turn the motor over.

 

[tomplum]

Your next logical step should be to check the stator leads for a short to ground. If no short, and you can start the engine check for AC output between the two when the engine is running. Not knowing what exactly you did to start,I can't comment on the starter. Do the basic jump to the small trigger wire test from the positive lead at the starter that I described before and report back.

 

[etruchan]

She fired up with the new solenoid. Once I cooked all of the old winterizer and oil out of her she ran clean. Now I have another problem but I guess I should start a new thread. I will ask and then if you all tell me to move it I will. The tractor will not move forward or back. I pushed the pin on the back right that allows it to move freely back in. The belts appear to be good but I don't know where to start with this one. Should I change the tranny oil first and then start looking for issues? Please advise. Thank you.

 

[radios1]

She fired up with the new solenoid. Once I cooked all of the old winterizer and oil out of her she ran clean. Now I have another problem but I guess I should start a new thread. I will ask and then if you all tell me to move it I will. The tractor will not move forward or back. I pushed the pin on the back right that allows it to move freely back in. The belts appear to be good but I don't know where to start with this one. Should I change the tranny oil first and then start looking for issues? Please advise. Thank you.

look up Tuff Torq K-66 here or on Google. there's a lot of info on that cheaply made transmission.. also some fixes that may work..

 

[tomplum]

You always start by knowing that both drive wheels are locked to the axle shaft. Also the driven pulley is spinning the transmission shaft.

 

[etruchan]

You always start by knowing that both drive wheels are locked to the axle shaft. Also the driven pulley is spinning the transmission shaft.

When I looked under the mower, it appeared there are 3 belts. The mower deck belt, the drive belt and a belt above the drive belt. It was late and hard to see but I could feel a belt. Is this correct? I didn't see three belts on parts diagram.

Also, should the drive belt be spinning while the motor runs. It is not. Also, when I release the brake and drive F or R, nothing engages the belt. That must occur at some point. As you said the engine spins the tranny pulley via the drive belt. This is not happening.

FYI - The PTO does engage the mower blades and they run very well.