Scott L2548 "Clicks" but only once... won't start

[Tx Jim]

I have not really checked the ground cable into the frame... I mean I looked at it and it appears
fine however the cable is original... I know that it is a snug connection... but will examine it.



Thanks again.

Welcome to TBN
I suggest to clean/tighten battery ground cable connections paying special attention to cable/frame connection. Another possibility is ground cable is corroded inside of cable insulation.

 

[Roamingdoc]

Thank you... I have a 2548 Scotts Lawn Tractor of an unknown vintage however I do, as mentioned,
maintain the typical engine maintenance program (oil, filters, plugs, check valves, keep a conditioner
in the gas over the slow months) and it has never failed to fire up in early spring. Until now.

We have success... And I cannot say exactly what I did (I used this very descriptive discussion
on electrical issues with this tractor -

)

Everyone said 'clean connections' (I certainly agree and regularly cleaned the battery posts)
1. I took positive and negatives completely off, used a steel brush and cleaned the posts and the cable ends
very well, this with a 'cleaner' and later applied a protectant.

2. The long negative to the frame (on this machine it is on the actual engine platform, left side
and just a single bolt hole...) was completely removed and tested for any excessive bending,
I took the postive, shorter and going from the positve post to the solenoid, and cleaned both
ends, checked for any feeling of excessive looseness in the cable... I then checked with both
cables off, the battery voltage, 12.61V

3. I noted that the ignition was a multipronged switch and that the wiring/connection had tons of
old 'dust' type dirt, I used an electric connections self evaporating cleaner in copious amounts
and then took a small file to each internal connection female receptor, couple of passes.

4. I then checked power to the solenoid and made sure it was getting voltage when the ignition
was turned to start, 12.61 as well.

5. I had by then reconnected everything. Made sure everything was 'tight is tight'.

6. I took out both plugs and made sure I could 'crank' the engine by hand, no vapor type locks.

7. I unplugged the seat switch.

Moment of truth after (and I am recovering from a major orthopedic surgery/accident so
my back was screaming) all was visually checked (wife double checked, been a stalwart helper
in "go for" this and that, thank you) and "switched on"... STARTED RIGHT UP... the new
starter was immediately noticeable as the old had a tooth missing... of course I had cleaned
the intake filters, etc... really runs great (yesterday, the proof will be in the starting today).

I noted after starting it that trying to release the brake would cut off the engine. I
reconnected the seat switch and that issue was gone BUT I DID NOT KNOW that
the brake and seat switches were connected???? Really?

So many thanks to all. I wish I knew exactly what was off but I did clean that thing,
with the coverings all off I even plugged the intake and air washed the old dust
off everything, cleaned all the moving throttle engine parts, the choke, etc...

Thanks again.

 

[dodge man]

Glad you got it going.

 

[CoyPatton]

Thank you... I have a 2548 Scotts Lawn Tractor of an unknown vintage however I do, as mentioned,
maintain the typical engine maintenance program (oil, filters, plugs, check valves, keep a conditioner
in the gas over the slow months) and it has never failed to fire up in early spring. Until now.

We have success... And I cannot say exactly what I did (I used this very descriptive discussion
on electrical issues with this tractor -

)

Everyone said 'clean connections' (I certainly agree and regularly cleaned the battery posts)
1. I took positive and negatives completely off, used a steel brush and cleaned the posts and the cable ends
very well, this with a 'cleaner' and later applied a protectant.

2. The long negative to the frame (on this machine it is on the actual engine platform, left side
and just a single bolt hole...) was completely removed and tested for any excessive bending,
I took the postive, shorter and going from the positve post to the solenoid, and cleaned both
ends, checked for any feeling of excessive looseness in the cable... I then checked with both
cables off, the battery voltage, 12.61V

3. I noted that the ignition was a multipronged switch and that the wiring/connection had tons of
old 'dust' type dirt, I used an electric connections self evaporating cleaner in copious amounts
and then took a small file to each internal connection female receptor, couple of passes.

4. I then checked power to the solenoid and made sure it was getting voltage when the ignition
was turned to start, 12.61 as well.

5. I had by then reconnected everything. Made sure everything was 'tight is tight'.

6. I took out both plugs and made sure I could 'crank' the engine by hand, no vapor type locks.

7. I unplugged the seat switch.

Moment of truth after (and I am recovering from a major orthopedic surgery/accident so
my back was screaming) all was visually checked (wife double checked, been a stalwart helper
in "go for" this and that, thank you) and "switched on"... STARTED RIGHT UP... the new
starter was immediately noticeable as the old had a tooth missing... of course I had cleaned
the intake filters, etc... really runs great (yesterday, the proof will be in the starting today).

I noted after starting it that trying to release the brake would cut off the engine. I
reconnected the seat switch and that issue was gone BUT I DID NOT KNOW that
the brake and seat switches were connected???? Really?

So many thanks to all. I wish I knew exactly what was off but I did clean that thing,
with the coverings all off I even plugged the intake and air washed the old dust
off everything, cleaned all the moving throttle engine parts, the choke, etc...

Thanks again.

On safety switches, they are a huge pain as generally they are all interconnected. This can be a real pain in finding the one that is causing problems. Even more so when the switch only gives trouble under certain situations such as when it gets hot.

 

[Roamingdoc]

Well, appreciate ALL the help...
ONE LAST QUESTION or POINT... the 'new' (and old) starter sit on the right side of the engine and
are connected by two torx bolts (I forget the exact MM size, but it has a good head). So the, as
sitting on the side of engine looking at starter, right hand bolt sits almost behind the starter cog.
I was able to screw in very tightly the 'left' bolt, good access, but this right hand bolt is almost
impossible to see or access... ANYONE with a Scotts 2548L have any experience with this starter
location and accessing that last bolt (right now it is not in, starter very solid but want both
bolts in)... I have attached a pic from 'behind' the start so you can see the offset of the bolt
holes... I tried putting the difficult on in first but it was also just as hard. Anyone do this?

 

[CoyPatton]

Well, appreciate ALL the help...
ONE LAST QUESTION or POINT... the 'new' (and old) starter sit on the right side of the engine and
are connected by two torx bolts (I forget the exact MM size, but it has a good head). So the, as
sitting on the side of engine looking at starter, right hand bolt sits almost behind the starter cog.
I was able to screw in very tightly the 'left' bolt, good access, but this right hand bolt is almost
impossible to see or access... ANYONE with a Scotts 2548L have any experience with this starter
location and accessing that last bolt (right now it is not in, starter very solid but want both
bolts in)... I have attached a pic from 'behind' the start so you can see the offset of the bolt
holes... I tried putting the difficult on in first but it was also just as hard. Anyone do this?

No experience with the Scotts itself, but that is a very common starter mount design and issue.
Anyone that has done much mechanic-ing has often encountered bolts that you can not see, can not reach and are just a PITA!
Patience! is the name of the game.
Try getting the first bolt in and snug not tight starter should still be free to pivot but not flop. Then perhaps using your torx bit in the bolt head (sometimes taping them together helps keep them together. Wiggle the starter to get the second bolt and hole/threads aligned. If using a ratchet based torx bit, an extension may be helpful.