Recently acquired my first tractor, a Satoh Stallion, with a hydraulic oil leak. Split the tractor, removed the clutch, and the clutch release bearing (throwout bearing) with carrier, and hit a brick wall. I assume I now have to remove the clutch release yoke and shaft so I can remove the plate behind it. The manual says to remove the bushing, allowing the shaft to pivot. I cannot find a way to do this. Any help is appreciated. More information on request.
Satoh S750D Stallion hydraulic leak
- Thread starter Chester_K
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- hydraulic hydraulic leak leak satoh
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
Probably not a lot of "experts" on that tractor out here. If you post a few photos of what you're looking at in there someone may offer some ideas.
MTGreen
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- Montana, USA
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- Deere 5220, Ford 1720, Deere Progator 2030
Where is the hydraulic leak coming from and how does that relate to clutch removal?
Is it the transmission input shaft seal leaking?
Is it the transmission input shaft seal leaking?
Hydraulic fluid was coming from the joint between the motor and the bell housing. I inquired at my local tractor dealership about repair. The owner gave two estimates because he said "while we are in there, we will check the clutch". He mentioned that the clutch plates might be saturated. I split the tractor, and found one clutch plate completely ruined, not necessarily from the fluid, but facing completely missing. (It has a dual clutch, with two plates. One was oily, but otherwise fine). Since fluid was getting on the clutch, it had to be coming through the back of the bell housing.
I have the manuals, which help, but in this case it says "take out the clutch shifter metal", which is actually a bushing in the case, with the shaft going through it, and into a hole in the case on the opposite side. The shaft cannot be removed first because the clutch release yoke is attached to it. The shaft, with the attached yoke blocks the removal of a bolt holding the cover on the opening behind it.
The clutch release yoke is not intended to be removed from the shaft, which does not mean it cannot be done. It is secured with two pins of some type, which would have to be drilled out. The narrow part of the bell housing is a difficult place to work, and I don't like to second-guess the people that built it.
I see two difficult options to try if I do not get a better suggestion. The first is to find a bushing of the correct size (about 1 inch), cut it in half, and put the half (or halves if I can) around the shaft, between the fork and the bushing, then use my port-a-power between the shaft and the case on the opposite side. I have not explored this yet to see if it can be done. The second is to drill the two pins from the fork. I am pretty sure I can do this, but the difficult location, the hard metal, the unstable target, etc. makes me leave this as my last option.
Sorry, I was responding to the first question, and forgot about the second. Yes, it is the transmission input shaft (or shafts) that is leaking. The tractor has two shafts coming from the motor, one inside the other. I assume one is to drive the tractor, and one for the PTO, but I don't know.
Thank you for your interest. Just as I was almost ready to give up on the first approach, it broke loose, and the bushing, and the shaft and fork are now out. I have no idea what I will get into next. The concern in the back of my mind is whether I will be able to find replacement seals once I get them out.