eBay/Craigslist Satoh S-650G - Hello -

[stnbenn]

I was in need of a coupling for the hydraulic pump, and could only find used ones or rusty ones at pretty hefty prices. I spent a little time drawing up a coupling for the hydraulic pump based on the one I had on hand. This was a used coupling but I was able to get some accurate dimentions on the part that wasn't worn too badly. I also designed it a little longer to be able to get more grip on the drive and driven shaft, and added a couple more clamp holes. I also made it in American decimal standards rather than Metric. Convert the dimentions to metric if you wish. I had on hand and used 1 1/2" x 3/8" hot rolled bar steel, though I believe 1 1/4" x 3/8" thichness would work fine.

I based the fabrication of the coupling by simply milling a slot in a length long enough to get at least two blocks (one top and bottom) out of the length. If you machine it or have it done, it would be wise to make the length long enough for several complete sets. If you use my drawing, note that it is not to scale, and based on my dimentions. Measure your coupling so that you do not ruin good steel stock in case my coupling is different than yours.

I could not locate any drawings for the original couplings, so I based mine on the worn out couplings that came with the tractor. Ony one was salvageable after flame welding, grinding and filing.

Attached is the drawing and if someone has a drawing or info on these couplings, please post if you have any dimentions or info. Thanks for looking.

 

[stnbenn]

Here are some more photo's of the homemade drivers that came as spare parts for the S650G. There are a couple welded up drivers consisting of a 1/2" bolt welded to a plate to attach to the drive pully. The bolt used is a grade 5. I welded up the worn coupling slot and filed it to fit, in order to have a spare, and low and behold I need to install it as the one that came on the tractor wore out after a couple hours use. I did find a drawing that gives the dimention of the shaft of the pump, however my shaft is slightly worn somewhat so I adjusted the coupling slot to match my worn dimention. Hope this info helps someone to determine what options are out there for scarce parts for the tractors. The pump selection, the driver mechanism, and coupling originally installed on these was a poor design and choice. A better option would have been at least a longer shaft on the pump, or a belt driven double pully pump mounted on the side. The hard piped hydraulic pipe on the present pump, leaves little choice to a simple redesign. Oh well, just do the best you can with what you have to work with.

 

[Sonny580]

The rusty coupling looks like the style on mine.I had to take it apart to put on a new fan belt! --- The coupling idea looked like an after thought! AND the steel lines make it a bear to wiggle around!

 

[PILOON]

My Mitsubishi has a similar crankshaft mounted pump except I have a U-Joint to drive it off of my crankshaft pully.
I DIY'd it myself some 18 years ago and never have had any trouble.
It was a great improvement over the engine pump which was not fast enough.
My FEL has its own oil reservoir in one of the 'posts' so my FEL system is totally independent from the tractor supply.

That leaves my engine pump to operate the 3-point and rear auxiliary outlet.
I still plan to add power steering and have the needed parts to do so.
Just need the time meanwhile I have developed good arm muscles.

While slow the rear aux powers my 3-point log splitter for the occasions that I use it.

 

[stnbenn]

Wish there was a way to drive my Bison with a different coupling but the frame mounted, direct drive pump with that small shaft makes it almost impossible. If I keep this tractor, I may investigate using a side mount, pump with double shive.

Piloon, could you post a photo of your coupling etc? Thanks.

Sonny I agree that the rusty block coupling is at best a poor setup from the gitgo.

 

[PILOON]

Kind of difficult with lots of snow here, but I mounted on the front FEL cross bar and used the factory C/Shaft fitting.
My coupler has a splined shaft and Ujoint so mounting was not very critical.
I'd suggest that most power steering Ujoint shafts would offer the same criteria.
Naturally if U weld it becomes easier to adapt.
My pump is sitting on my FEL frame cross member which is about 8 ins ahead of te engine crankshaft pulley.
I actually also welded a protection plate ahead of the pump to avoid damage to the pump.

 

[stnbenn]

Thank, I guess the weather is quite different there than in Mid Florida.

 

[Compact Driver]

Just checking in. Had to put this project on the back burner for now. When I get back to it I'll post some more. :2cents:

 

[Sonny580]

compact driver,--- glad to see you are still among us! --- Fully understand the back burner thingy! LOL!!

 

[stnbenn]

Just checking in. Had to put this project on the back burner for now. When I get back to it I'll post some more. :2cents:

Thanks