SA200, what it worth?

[muddstopper]

When I removed the big nut from the generator, the armature pretty much just fell out. I was surprised by this as I thought it would need to be pressed off. Another surprise is that a lot of the little paper inserts where sticking out of the armature. Is this normal and can I just slide them back into their slots. Dismanteling this thing has fought me every inch of the way. bolts rusted tight, some wringing off. Inside of generator looks pretty rough to. I guess what one would expect out of a 40 year old machine that has been setting for 10+ years.

 

[Shield Arc]

Another surprise is that a lot of the little paper inserts where sticking out of the armature. Is this normal and can I just slide them back into their slots.

Never seen that happen before. Yeah I guess you can just slide them back in.:confused3: I just went out and took some pictures of my 1971 that is ready to go back together.

 

[Arc weld]

I think it was the welding web or maybe the AWS forum SA200 section where I read about the blind test. We have a Miller rep here that used to be an instructor at the tech school. He was talking last week about the difference between Lincoln and Miller portable machines. He said Miller makes a very good machine(TB 325), of course, but also said that if you want to just lay the rod and burn, the Miller won't do it because the arc gets rectified or re-rectified or something along those lines that doesn't let it weld the same as a Lincoln. That gets kudo's from me because most sales rep's would never tell you of a slight deficiency of their machines. The Lincoln reps I've met would never let on about any deficiencies with their machines. They'd be too busy knocking anything else. Lincoln has had this kind of mentality for years and I think has cost them. There's a lot more Miller engine drives out there than there used to be.

 

[muddstopper]

As I am still trying to decide just how far to go with this rebuilt, I decided to check the exciter coils before completeing the teardown. Coils out, laying on bench. Ohm meter between the two stranded wires, Reads 156.2ohms. according to someone, here are the specs for aluminum and for copper.

Aluminum = 130ohms +/-10% in series, 65ohms +/-5% individually
Copper = 167ohms +/-10% in series, 83.5ohms +/-5% individually.
Are these numbers correct?

Mine falls right in the middle, A little high for a aluminum wire, outside the +/-10% and a low low for the copper but within the +/-10%.

Did I check this right and is 156.2 a good enough number to continue the tear down?. If these are good, Paint with gyptal before reinstalling?

 

[Shield Arc]

This is right from Bill, at Bill's Welder Repair.
If all of the wiring (black and red wire from exciter coils to generator housing are good. Blue and brown or yellow wires inside the generator housing are good) your rheostat is good. Then that will leave your shunt field coils. Across the blue and brown wires coming out of your generator housing you should read approximately 40 ohms. If you read nothing you have a broken (open) wire, if your read 28 your shorted.

 

[muddstopper]

Your are referring to the shunt coils, is that correct? I havent measured them yet, but now I see how so back to the shop.

Quick check, brown and blue wire, straight out of generator, nothing else connected. 38.7 ohms. good enough?

 

[Shield Arc]

38.7 ohms. good enough?

According to Bill, it should weld! :thumbsup:

 

[muddstopper]

Well, that makes me feel better about throwing a little money in the engine. Got genset apart from engine. Removed manifolds and lifter valley cover. Lots of corrosion around lifters. Sprayed down with atf/acetone mix and will let soak until I get engine on motorstand. Got to borrow a valve spring compressor and hopefully I dont have to drive the valves out. Cant see any rust around camshaft, So maybe can reuse. Havent pulled pan yet, but no water in oil so I am just hopeing crank can be reused without having turned. If number 2 cyl didnt have so much crud in , the rest of cyls look good enough for a hone and re-ringing.

 

[DXN1EL]

Any update??

 

[muddstopper]

After doing a little CHRISTmas shopping, finally got back to the teardown. This thing has fought me every step of the way. Pretty well got it stripped. I had 3 head bolts that rung off. Did the weld a nut trick to studs and that worked pretty good on first stud. Second stud took about 3 trys. Last one wanted to be a bugger. Kept wringing off until it was amost flush with the block. I took a washer and welded to stud and then welded a nut on top of that and let cool. Then heated side of block with torch around bolt hole. Not red hot, but peel the skin off if you touched it. Took hammer and started tapping the top of the stud while pulling on it with a wrench. It finally moved and I started wiggleing it back and forth until it finally decided to screw out. I feel I am going to have a similar problem with some of the manifold studs. Pulled front pully and timing cover so I could remove the timing gears. With gears off, I started turning the camshaft. Several valves where stuck, but plenty of oil and rocking back and forth on the cam and they all freed up. Took out 3 pistons and crank. Bearing looked like new, I will mic them and decide whether or not to reuse. Crank is standard rods and mains. Now if I can get number 2 piston out I will be able to hone and check the bores. 1,3,4 bores are slick and shiney. Pistons came out with just a bump of the hand. I have tried bumping #2 with 2x4 and hammer. Filled it full of oil and set on fire. Took weed burner and stuck in bore until I thought it would melt the piston. So far it wont budge. I currently have a bottle jack rigged up as a press bolted to top of block. Got jack pumped up until i am afraid it will break the cheap china chain I am using. Just going to let set there for a day or two and see if the piston decides to move.