S470D Buck Clutch Problem

[Bubblehead651]

Working on Son-in-Law's Satoh Buck Ser S470D-02861. Looked at different forums on topic, but one more check before I undertake the unpleasant task of splitting the tractor. The clutch pedal moves freely, but very little/no resistance. Clutch is engaged. Grinds when try to put it in gear with engine running. Can shift gears with engine off. Tried pulling and braking but didn't want to put it under too much stress and break something would regret later. No repair manual. Looks like throw-out bearing gone and need to split? See several have split their tractor, any instructions out there on how to do it? Thanks for the input/help.

 

[Capricious]

Is the clutch plate "stuck" to the flywheel?

 

[Bubblehead651]

Probably, how can I tell? Any inspection plates? Thanks

 

[oliver28472]

Capricious probably got it right. Was it working properly before? Moisture can cause this problem. Never happened on mine and it sits in an open barn. Lots of similar stories on this on TBN.

 

[Capricious]

Probably, how can I tell? Any inspection plates? Thanks

I don't know if that model has any sort of inspection plate.

I am assuming you have the free play adjusted correctly- Page 44 here:

http://home.comcast.net/~tdepooter/Satoh Buck S470 Optimized.pdf

 

[Bubblehead651]

Thanks for the input. Guess I'll go ahead and split it. Looks like will remove engine to get to clutch?

 

[Capricious]

If you suspect the clutch is sticking to the flywheel, you might try to free it up before taking the tractor apart.

An internet search will show some possible methods of freeing a stuck clutch, such as

What to do when your tractor's clutch gets stuck.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/161674-clutch-stuck-ford-1920-a.html


...and others.

Be careful.

 

[oliver28472]

You won't need to remove the engine if you split. There are lots of threads here on what to do when splitting the tractor.

 

[Bubblehead651]

Thanks Oliver: Guess I'll buy a service manual and do it by the book.

 

[oliver28472]

Here is a suggestion from Soundguy, a (borrowed from another thread) frequent and respected member here: My sugestion is to go ahead and block the clutch and walk away for a few days.. then come back and check.. many times they pop loose on their own.. if not, go ahead and get it in gear and start it... not super easy.. but with a lil jumper wire you can do so from the op seat.. keep the clutch blocked and drive it around in figure 8's stomping on the brakes.

if that don't do it, you can also use your lil jumper wire to set there and bump the starter over with her in high gear and the clutch blocked and try to pop her loose.

lastly, put a pto load on her like a mower and start her with pto engaged a couple times.

one or more of those have always worked for me in the past... have yet had to split one from a stuck clutch.. though do realize that in some extreme cases.. you don't have much choice.

have enen pulled starters so I could get a poker in there to tap around on the clutch too..

post back.

soundguy

 

[oliver28472]

P.S.: There is a small latch down on the left side on the clutch linkage that you can flip the latch while holding the clutch pedal down. The latch will hold the pedal down for you. This is what SG means when he says block the clutch.

 

[Bubblehead651]

Thanks, have had it blocked now for over a week. Squirted PB blaster in the drain plug hole. Drove it around in 8's and stomped on brakes. Don't have anything to put on the pto yet (need to get it running right first, before start looking). The instruction manual isn't much help on splitting. How far does the engine move forward after splitting, and that is enough to change out the clutch and pressure plate. See some threads on splitting, anyone have one they prefer? Thanks All for the input. Maybe will try removing the starter before splitting.

 

[skylarkguy]

Here is a thread from when i split my 372.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mitsubishi-satoh/217821-time-clutch-mt372d.html?highlight=

The engine with flywheel assembly will move forward as much as you want. It will likely be rolling on your front axle and floor jack. Make sure you have lots of cribbing and jack stands, and probably at least 2 floor jacks. It isn't as hard as it seems, once you start looking at it you will see what systems cross the plane of separation that will split the front half from the back half. A manual will most likely help...mine was missing some pages though. If you can do it on concrete that will facilitate rolling the parts around.

 

[Capricious]

"..Squirted PB blaster in the drain plug hole..."


Probably not a good idea to get oil on the clutch disc, if you can avoid it. But if you are going to split, you might as well replace/reline the disc anyway.

 

[Bubblehead651]

Thanks guys for you input. Took me most of the day to split and replace clutch and bearings. But an interesting project. Hopefully don't have to do this again real soon. Will attach some pics if I can figure out how.

 

[oliver28472]

Boy, that was a lot of rust. Glad you got it done.

 

[skylarkguy]

Yeah looks like you made the right call...bet it works good now.

 

[Capricious]

I am assuming that the collection of sockets/extensions is your alignment tool.

Did you have the flywheel resurfaced?